Morris Minor Owners Club

Well -- not all of it. The carburettor has sprung a gas leak! Not a lot at all came out during the two minutes the engine ran, but it could have been serious had I been going on a trip. The leak is from the bottom -- anyone have any idea?

What carb do you have? If it's and H2 with the internal fuel passage from the bowl to the jet, it's the gland seals that are leaking, and can not be permanently fixed as far as I know. If it's a HS2 with the external fuel line, it may be just a loose fitting or a worn seal.

Jaekl -- I seem to have the H2. (Of course.) It looks correct for the model that's in there, and the engine number fits. I'll go take a photo.
[frame][/frame]
Is that H2? If it is, what are my options on repair? I know ESM at least offers repair and rebuild kits.

Regalia and Alan -- we have no folding chairs! The shame! It wasn't as bad as I made it sound, though. Kinda fun. And if it had really hurt, I could have simply put the driver's seat back in.

Polo -- is this the box you're talking about?
[frame][/frame]
I'll get in there and file off some grime. That's a good suggestion you had.

Alex -- surely you're speaking of a theoretical, showroom-condition ideal Moggie, with perfect seals and vacuum? Insta-start without the accelerator depressed is probably possible in a car in mine's condition, assuming it's run every day, but mine is run only once a week or so.
It's true I didn't need to touch the clutch, but it was sort of an automatic response, just in case. As it turned out Mog was indeed in neutral. But better safe than sorry, considering the front end is up on jack stands.

Fingolfin wrote:It's true I didn't need to touch the clutch, but it was sort of an automatic response, just in case. As it turned out Mog was indeed in neutral. But better safe than sorry, considering the front end is up on jack stands.

I was taught to check the gearbox is in neutral before starting the engine by moving the stick from side to side.

Haha -- that's what I do every time I get in -- but I'm a young driver and Mog is my first manual gearboxed car! So I have to be extra careful.

Got some more work done today. I'd been intending to scrape off the leftover glue from the floor, and boy, that was fun. I ended up taking off the gearbox cover.
[frame][/frame]
Notice how horrific the inward bend is in that right chassis leg. I was pleasantly surprised it was visible. The gearbox support crossmember appears to be in all right condition, and the gearbox itself is one of the best things about the car.
The cover was a number of swear words to take off, because of some stuck screws and bored-out screw heads. Big brass Phillips ones that I intend to replace, as I'm fond of brass, but not when the screws get unturnable.
Note the mass of fluff in the pink bucket. That was a (small part of a) mouse's nest in my right chassis leg! The rest got vacuumed up.

Happily, I also got the gearbox number:
[frame][/frame]
And I think the gearbox will be more easily drainable with the cover off. I'd been having fits about crawling all the way under it just to turn a plug.

Pictures of the condition of the floorpan, since it's been scraped clean, and of the gearbox cover to come tomorrow.

Don't get under the car with it jacked up on only axle stands - they could slip If you haven't got a proper trolley jack rest the car on old tyres, as well as the axle stands. We don't want you getting hurt or worse!

Touché, Regalia -- I'd thought the opposite -- that the jack was unstable! We have got a trolley jack and I suppose I'll shove it under the left-hand chassis leg before I clamber under. Or maybe I'll just put the wheels back on and squeeze myself in.

Since I'm going to have the right chassis leg and the center crossmember replaced, and since doing that (easily) requires having the engine and gearbox out -- and since letting the frame shop take those out would double the cost -- my dad and I have decided to take them out ourselves. Anyone know the weight of an engine with transmission attached? Wondering if it's necessary to have a cherry-picker or not. Dad seems to think he can lift them out with his giant arms, but I don't want him to hurt himself!

The Haynes manual outlines how to remove them, and it looks fairly straightforward. Anything I should be worried about when launching into it?

Fingolfin wrote:Touché, Regalia -- I'd thought the opposite -- that the jack was unstable!

Indeed. I only use the trolley jack to put the car up on the axle stands. I then attempt to push/pull the car off the stands (while the wheels are still on) to check they are stable. You might consider putting a pile of wheels under the body as an extra safety measure - I must admit I have rarely bothered with this. I probably would put wheels underneath if the stands were on soft/uneven ground rather than a concrete garage floor because there's a chance the legs might sink in and become unstable.

Since I'm going to have the right chassis leg and the center crossmember replaced, and since doing that (easily) requires having the engine and gearbox out -- and since letting the frame shop take those out would double the cost

I can't see it doubling the cost unless they just really don't want to do it for some reason. It's maybe half an hour's work for a professional mechanic vs many hours of cutting, welding and grinding.

-- my dad and I have decided to take them out ourselves. Anyone know the weight of an engine with transmission attached? Wondering if it's necessary to have a cherry-picker or not. Dad seems to think he can lift them out with his giant arms, but I don't want him to hurt himself!

A gearbox is easily liftable by one strong bloke. A complete engine is just about liftable by two strong blokes (with difficulty). I wouldn't try to lift them both together without a crane or pulley system.

The Haynes manual outlines how to remove them, and it looks fairly straightforward. Anything I should be worried about when launching into it?

Be careful not to crush the brake pipe that runs across the top of the front crossmember.

Some more poking around underneath the car revealed...
[frame][/frame]
Looking from the front, camera just behind the left-hand axle tube.
Awful stuff. Not particularly sure of the repair panel to order, anyone know? Or could a suitable repair be done by welding in a fresh piece of steel?
There are also a few minor holes in the boot floor, but nothing to be really concerned about. I should remove the petrol tank and have it pressure-tested. I'll need to figure out welding sometime soon, and weld in some little repair sections in spots.

Dad and I are considering at least welding in the new floor and the undersill repair section, which would save us some green. (What color is your money? )

Do you suppose the rust on the springs is dangerous, or is that normal? I'm going to replace the axle anyway, so I'm not sure it matters in the long run.

I've probably looked over the entire bottom of the car. What I'm going to do next is attempt a complete series of photos of the underside that line up into a full picture, which will be useful. This would be very easy with Mog on a lift. I think we should truck it into town sometime soon.

In other news, I've come across another Minor (two-door saloon, roughly same year as mine, but unsure) in Denver, Colorado, that I may go look at and possibly purchase.

Took up the floors today. Words can't describe my anger at *insert previous owner's name* for not properly fixing the original floors, but instead riveting (RIVETING!) new panels on top. Photos...
[frame][/frame]Right-hand front floor. It gets worse...
[frame][/frame]Right-hand rear floor.
[frame][/frame]Left-hand front and...
[frame][/frame]Left-hand rear. Surprisingly, considering the surface rustiness, this is the most stable panel -- but I still won't be standing on it ever.
No, I didn't take a screwdriver to it. This is the floor as it was, slightly vacuumed to remove debris.

And finally, for your viewing pleasure, Fin presents the crossmember -- viewable from INSIDE the CABIN!
[frame][/frame]On the left side aaaand...
[frame][/frame]On the right.

So I clearly do NEED A NEW FLOORPAN. Hopefully I'll get my new debit card here soon (old one gone on possibility of fraud), and then I'll order it all. Along with a new crossmember, which is in HORRIBLER-THAN-I-THOUGHT condition.

Boy, I've been a busy bee today! I removed the front wings. Happy times. Studious followers of my resto will remember I have a new left-front wing, so the interesting bit here is the right-front one. The hidden bit in front of the right A-pillar was full (literally) of clumped dirt, and lots of the wing appears to be fiberglass and Bondo. Guuuh!!!

The A-pillar itself looks nice and strong, though, even if there is a little surface rust:[frame][/frame]That'll all be undercoated soon. Maybe two or three coats.

Here's the whole right-front flitch and underwing:[frame][/frame]
Sadly, however, the right rear wheel well sill looks pretty bad. Nice big holes, to match the opposite side.[frame][/frame]
Both the front wheels are back on, meaning Mog is on wheels all round.
Tomorrow sees the removal of the rear wings. Huzzah! That should be great fun! Uggh...

All the wings are off. Like the front, the left side was easy and had already been done once before...but the right side...[frame][/frame]That's it there. It doesn't look awful, I suppose. But the front lowest bolt was hell and high water to take off -- it ended up breaking right through the body with the nut still attached.[frame][/frame]

So, after that fiasco, I finally decided to purchase some anti-rust primer. It's a Rustoleum product and looks a lot like what you guys call 'red oxide'...I took the brake drums off and painted them first in the primer...[frame][/frame]...then in a special high-temperature paint that has to be baked on. This is both rear drums after baking:[frame][/frame]Aren't they prettier than they were?

With the drums off, I could see the condition of the brake system. The drums were horrific to take off, and didn't want to go back on, either...I figured they'd just slide off, with some resistance, like any other drums. But is it true on all Minors that you have to loosen the adjustment screw all the way before they'll move? In any case, I think my handbrake isn't disengaging properly. Oiling of the linkages to come.[frame][/frame]

Finally, I managed to get a much better shot of that driver's side sill, where it's eaten through. I caution you that the metal was ripped out in the accident; these aren't rust holes. But they're just as unsafe.[frame][/frame]

Next steps. I have to get in the parts; they won't be ordered for at least another week, while I wait on a new debit card. I'm afraid I need too many panels for how much money I have, but that problem may be solved when we take in our mountains of recycling metal soon. Does anyone have a diagram of how the sills are built up? I know they're not just singular box sections.

After the parts come in, they'll be put on, of course. Some will be done by my dad and I, some more by a mechanic with a frame jig after the engine/gearbox come out. Prior to taking Mog to the frame guy, I'm going to have a go at removing the fuel tank and seeing about its condition. Looking for ways to pressure-test it, but no one around here does it, apparently.

After Mog returns, I'll finish fixing up the electrics. That'll be started beforehand. Can't wait to get buried in wires.

Then the brakes'll need sorted out. Everything needs lubricating, though I can do much of that right now. I'll service the engine and gearbox while they're out of the car.

Lots to do...

Some tiny progress. Took the petrol tank out.[frame][/frame]
Anyone know how best to clean out a boot? It's not as rusty as it looks, I promise. Most of that's dirt.

The petrol tank got primed in the same anti-rust primer, and then painted in simple black for the top, undercoating for the bottom.[frame][/frame]

Lastly, I painted the gearbox cover, having removed most of the carpet glue. Couldn't manage to get it all, but I don't think it'll be a big problem.[frame][/frame]
I think the underside ought to be undercoated, and maybe a coat of the high-temperature paint too? Ah, but that needs baked on, and I don't think the cover will fit in our oven.
Notice that somebody cut into it...that'll just be caulked for now, but eventually I may weld on a patch. Not sure.

Had a fiddle with the electrics just now. Took out the canister flasher unit...[frame][/frame]
Had a heck of a time getting it to come off. I discovered that someone had superglued the rightmost terminal on... ...but that's not all. The supergluing of that terminal was accidental, done while someone superglued the whole dang unit back together. It's been disassembled!
[frame][/frame]Look at that awful gluey mess!
Something inside rattles, too. Sounds spring-like.

The canister was going to be replaced anyway, though, with ESM's combined flasher/hazards unit. Anyone have any reason I shouldn't use it? I've searched the m/b and found it mentioned numerous times, but no one ever replies saying, 'yes, I've used it, it's wonderful/awful.' No one knows about it.

PARTS ORDERED!!! And also , because it is (of course) very expensive, for a broke bloke like me.

Working on disconnecting the engine, and on getting various bits ready for putting the new parts in. Naturally, I want to inspect the engine while disconnecting it, cuz I haven't before. So this is the thermostat:[frame][/frame]Ain't it pretty? I was worried about the nuts coming off of the studs, as I'd heard this could be finicky, but they came right off with no trouble at all.
The carburettor assembly was removed:[frame][/frame]It looks all right, from the outside, but who knows what lurks within? Maybe something like my friend Isabella here:[frame][/frame]An American Tarantula had made her nest under my battery box! See the extra pair of legs sticking out? That's her (eaten) husband. She left as soon as she was disturbed, so no worries.
So this is the engine bay now. Doesn't look a lot different, but soon the engine itself will be away.[frame][/frame]I'm so fond of the hole in the battery box. What a good idea it is to mount a car on a spit!
Next step was to take the exhaust pipe off, and it's not happening. WD-40, a hammer, and a propane torch didn't make it budge. (WD-40 does not burn, we discovered, but does smoke something awful. So does a half-century of carbon inside the pipe.)[frame][/frame]

So very much fun it's all been! Now that the parts are on their way, the real fun shall begin.

Ah! And I meant to mention! There's a fellow in Tennessee who has offered to give me a free bonnet, gently used. You've seen the state of mine, so I think that's fantastic! He has numerous other bits too that I may be buying. (Where's the money coming from?......I'm growing a money tree? )

LOTS of progress. First and foremost, and something that gave me several days of pride, the exhaust pipe came out![frame][/frame]
It was followed by the starter motor:[frame][/frame]
...the bonnet:[frame][/frame]
...and, finally, the engine and the gearbox![frame][/frame]

That let me evaluate the integrity of the structure around the engine. There's a pretty good crack in the rear right-hand engine bay floor, and the 'triangle' is pulled off of the left-hand chassis leg -- and the leg itself has been repaired once at the eyebolt, but it looks like a good repair with nice clean welds -- and also on that same leg, the area around the tie-bar tie-plate (I believe that's what it's called) is soft and crunchy:[frame][/frame]So I may need a new tie-plate, and a proper repair done on there. No money left for a repair section.

Surveying the engine and the gearbox. I think the gearbox is in nearly pristine condition:[frame][/frame] Anyone see anything I'm missing?
The engine is all right. The only problem I can see on the outside (and I have no idea how to get inside) is that the crankshaft pulley has a crack in it.[frame][/frame] That's easily replaced, though.
The engine back plate (and flywheel and clutch drive) look good, I think.[frame][/frame]
All I've done for servicing so far has been to flush out the cooling pipes, which was awfully messy, but all the old antifreeze and the rusty water is gone.

Half my parts arrived! Just missing the floor panels. ESM sure ships quickly...[frame][/frame]But the metal is quite low gauge...I can't imagine it came that thin originally. No wonder it all rusts through!
Nice birthday present these parts were...happy b-day to me...

Looking good and Happy Birthday to you.

happy birthday

Thanks all, I had a fine birthday! And was so excited to get Mog to the shop. We put the door back on (unfortunately no photos right now) finally, and it fit like a glove; Mog went on the trailer all right. Early this morning we took it to the frame guy. He's a good fellow and smart, and has lots of experience welding, but he wants $3500 for the whole shabang, and wants to keep Mog for a whole month!

So we're buying a little MIG. I'm going to try and learn all I can before having a go at Mog.

One thing, though -- the frame guy said he wanted to put the floor panels in using butt welds. I see the advantages to this, but aren't other welds possible too?