Morris Minor Owners Club

Nice work there!

Great fab skills there

Are you going into Production with these parts ??? Could seriously hurt the economy of Sri Lanka!

Tidy work but I would seriously suggest doing away with the 'tie-down' hole on the bracket on the outside of the rear spring shackle. It will prove to be a mud/rust trap

Yes I can see that

Ive seen these folded back to the wheel arch and seam welded - that way it keeps the strength and also stops the dirt trap.

Would be very useful for others if you were keeping cardboard patterns for all these parts - and/or making drawings with dimensions ??

Hi BMC

I have made some paper patterns and done some dimensioned sketches in the process of fabricating/doing repairs.

Is there anything in particular you need as theyre good enough for me to fabricate from but I usually make slightly oversize then fettle the repair piece to match the section Im replicating.

Im quite happy to post up anything people need if I have taken the dimensions for it.

I have the sizes of the 10 SWG rear floor extension angle (see my other old post) which is with a sheet metal fabricator and will post some pics when the floor panel is completed as Ill have to put the holes in when it comes back from them.

Any updates?

Hi Rich

Im well on with the rear repair section fabrication and have measured up for the rear timber brackets which sit at the back of the rear inner wings.

Will post some more pics soon.


How is yours coming on?

Taupe

Hi

Ive been progressing with the traveller rear floor area and the side timber supports today.

Ive made a new main floor section with new brackets where the bumper irons bolt on as mine were too thinned to use.

The support bracket which goes in the middle and takes the bolt for the spare wheel clamp was also going to be reused but this is also too thinned and I am making a new one tonight. The thread is 7/16" BSF.

I was suprised that there is a rubber strip on the side timber support brackets.

You can see this in the photos.

Ive also completed the floor extension panel and angle support and will post some pics of these tomorrow.

Ive left the sides of my floor oversized at the moment and will trim them back to fit the inner wing rear repair sections when I am ready to fit them.

Here are some pics...

Hi

As promised here are the pics of the completed rear floor repair sections made.

You can see the 10SWG angle which runs across underneath and is much thinner on the repair panels available. I had to get this folded by a sheet metal shop as its too thick to bend at home!

Ive included the remains of the old panel to compare.

I had a couple of spare ones folded at the same time so if anyone needs one PM me.

Im pleased with the new timber support brackets they came up well and the bumper iron fits !

Ive cut out the rot on my car ready to fit and I just need to make the curved rear inner wing repair panels that weld to the 10 SWG angle and the timber support brackets. I can then start welding again.

Here are some pics.

Will someone please tell me if im posting too many pics.

That is seriously impressive work there! I can't wait to see your Traveller finished. It's certainly given me inspiration for getting on with mine. I started on it yestereday by removing the driver's side A-post and cover panel, and the rear end of the flitch panel but found the replacement panel doesn't fit too well. I should have made one up as you do with yours!

Certainly not too many pictures! I've got repair panels for the boot floor and rear timber support section (don't look as nice as yours!) There's not enough left of the originals on the car - should they be welded together (the joint with the thick 'U' section) or fixed by some other means?

Hi alzax

Yes they were spotwelded together as orig.

Im going to weld the main floor section in first then spotweld the top and underneath angle bracket once aligned with and bolted to the timber support brackets.



Taupe

Taupe, if you are happy to post the pictures please keep posting them.

For me, this website if for "the preservation" of moggy's. You are simply showing us how it's done.

Thank you for sharing your skills.

Thanks for that, thought I'd check before I did something silly!

GREAT progress! Not enough pics if you ask me! ;)

Not done any more to mine yet, I've busy building a new workshop, then I've got Alfabob's 'vert to weld/repair, a van for someone else, a 1951 Beetle, then I'll be able to do mine - unless I get any more work before hand (which is the hope!).

I'll have one of the spare sections you had bent if you've still got one spare!

Where bouts in Bucks are you? I'm in Amersham.

Hi Rich

Im in Chesham!

Pm me your number and I will call you.

Regards
Taupe

Looks great but I don't see any signs of weld through primer or seam sealer.
Work of this quality should be preserved for posterity

MarkyB

I intend to use a good seam sealer after welding (for overlapped edges apart from those that will filled and painted) and on the underside of the panel micaceous iron oxide paint built up thick simelar to that originally used and then Waxoyle over that.

Where the seams were originally bitumen sealed I will use bitumen paint hot and brushed in so it runs into the seam. I sometimes warm the metal with a blowlamp to help it run in!

The panels as you can see are light greyish this is because I have used Oxysolve on them which is a zinc/phosphate rust treatment. Its quite a thin coating as its just a clear liquid wiped on. Removes my rusty paw prints on the bare steel

I dont like the idea of zinc based weld thro as you get nasty fumes when welding and when burnt you get lots of white or yellow oxide.

I guess its down to personal preference.

Regards

Taupe