Morris Minor Owners Club

hi gents i have solved the different connections on the master cylinder. it is an m12 at the front with 3/16 pipes and fitted a normal 3/8 fitting to the other end no problems the next problem i came across is the clutch master cylinder. the pipe from that is 1/4 pipe and the one on the slave is 3/16 theres a rubber/ plastic pipe that connects the 2 cant get hold of that but have some other pipe im gonna use until i find it. i thought i would go the hole hog on the breaks so its already there when i wanna slam a W16 engine in it many years down the road when a bugatti veyron comes up on ebay. haha so thats the reason for the over kill. no doubt getting parts is the hardest part on this project and making up the pipes once this is done and im happy the car will stop this thing will be a driver in hours but its looking like she wont be done for the end of the summer:(

the brakes are coming together now thanks to everyones help next problem is the clutch hydrolics. i sorced a really good second hand slave cylinder which also came with all the pipes i need to fit it! but now i have fitted it im having trouble getting fluid into the pipes the master isn't leaking nor is the connection but cant get fluid into the pipe which is quite confusing any suggestions?

I seriuosly doubt ypour master cylinder had 12mm thread at one end - and 3/8 thread at the other! The small thread would be 10mm - and a 3/8 fitting does NOT fit! Check carefully before you do some damage - although I fear if you have forced a 3/8" fitting into an m10 thread - the damage is already done. It will not be tight - it will not hold up under pessure - you may lose the brakes just when you need them!

no fears my friend i would never force anything if it needs forcing its obviously wrong. i have all the correct fittings in place decided the best way to do things which really goes without saying is to take the parts to a motorfactors and buy the bits that fit fortunatly the motorfacters i use are full of older guys that remember working on these little babys when they were fresh out of the factory. so all is well on the fittings front just trying to work out y brake fluid ism't getting to the back of the braking system but im hot on the case just need to no y im not getting fluid 2mm from the master cylinder to the pipes the pipes are see through so theres defenatly no fluid in them.

i have now moved onto break bleeding having found the lack of fluid to the rear was due to a really small and un noticable leak at 1 of the joins however im attempting to bleed the back (furthest away from the master cylinder first) and am only getting little dribbles of fluid into the lines the system isn't pressurising atall. the air from the servo is leaking out between the master cylinder and the servo but even tho this is happening the rod in the servo should be workin the master cylinder am i right in saying this? i really dont no whats goin on. does anyone have any thoughts on this that might help me crack this case?

lukedauvergne wrote:i have now moved onto break bleeding having found the lack of fluid to the rear was due to a really small and un noticable leak at 1 of the joins however im attempting to bleed the back (furthest away from the master cylinder first) and am only getting little dribbles of fluid into the lines the system isn't pressurising atall. the air from the servo is leaking out between the master cylinder and the servo but even tho this is happening the rod in the servo should be workin the master cylinder am i right in saying this? i really dont no whats goin on. does anyone have any thoughts on this that might help me crack this case?

Yes, the brake must be able to work without the servo! Have you rebuilt the master cylinder? Could be that it has old worn/perished seals which don't want to play the game any more. I've had this where a previously fine m/c packed up when I changed a brake pipe and attempted bleeding.

haven't re built it couldn't find a rebuild kit. but did take it apart and give it a good clean cleaned and checked all the seals master is holding fluid no leaks what so ever just not presurising very confused

Don't understand 'air from servo is leaking out between master cylinder and servo' - there is no 'air' - it's a vacuum servo.
My advice - throw away the servo - it's just a %$£^& nuisance.

Air can leak in as well as out.

bmcecosse wrote:Don't understand 'air from servo is leaking out between master cylinder and servo' - there is no 'air' - it's a vacuum servo.
My advice - throw away the servo - it's just a %$£^& nuisance.

bmc i have said in a different thread that you do not like servos.. and your response was that you do.. so i do not understand this comment

Necessary on larger/heavier cars (eg TR7) - but not on Minors (or Minis)!

slight problem roy..

the TR7 weights in at 1000kg add one average male driver @ 79 kg = 1079kg

a traveller weights in at 797kg add 4 average males @ 79kg = 1113kg

so a moggy full up weights more than a TR7..

obviously a few mods to a moggy such as wider tyres bigger engine, 5 speed gearbox different rear axle, saab seats etc is going to add to the original moggy weight.

not going to argue about the mini though it weights in at 584 kg

Aye - but the TR7 goes a whole lot faster and needs much more braking. It's brake system was also designed (that's a laugh - it was criticised dreadfully from the very first launch of the car!) around using a servo - even then - my brakes are terrible ! Actually - I have been thinking that maybe the servo is knackered, and since I have two spares - one of which is new - I may get round to fitting it some day!
Although - I have wondered about simply fitting some nice big Riley 9" front drums................

sorry again roy..

your servo is not speed sensitive i.e. only starting to work at speed in excess of 90mph..(easily achieved in a modified moggy) and 70 mph in a 1000 kg car no matter what vehicle will require the same amount of breaking force..

I would not recommend fitting your 9" riley drums to your TR 7... you might find difficulty getting front and rear wheels to match

TR7s aren't that much faster than a standard moggie TR8s maybe!

MartinB wrote:TR7s aren't that much faster than a standard moggie TR8s maybe!

Mine is - I can assure you - well into 3 figures! The standard TR8 is not actually that much faster than the TR7 - it's higher geared and the power is not much more. It does however use very much more petrol!

bmcecosse wrote:Mine is - I can assure you - well into 3 figures!!

but not as fast as a twin cam ed minor

Only when it 'undertakes' !

thats what you get for going too slow
and to keep you well back i just threw bits of the truck at you