Morris Minor Owners Club

youmeaninsteadofrunningeverywordintoeachotherlikeido?

yes, Stoke is quite primitive, in fact Burslem and Smallthorne has not changed much at all and is really primitive compared to the southern more developed end.

I will keep you informed of any activity in the Potteries branch (as I'm nearly always there myself). In fact the other night (wednesday) we had a run out to a pub and had a meal, but not many folks turned up, there were 3 moggies (my '69 4-door, Geoff's '60 Traveller, and Nick's '71 Van) and a BMW (moggy in bits!!)

Sorry to get back on to the original subject, but ...
I don't think it really matters whether SAE 30 or 20/50 is used in the gearbox. As long as it is a decent oil.
The gearbox doesn't get as hot as the engine (I hope) and there are less chemical contaminents - ie combustion gases. I haver been using Morris SAE 30 for thje gearbox since a recon one was fitted (several years ago) - it runs fine.
However, I think I may now switch to 20/50 hen my lawnmoweer uses up all the SAE30, it is one less can in the garage!

hi paul

thanks for getting us back on subject !!

my point originally is that maybe 20/50 will get chopped down to sae 20 pretty quickly by the gear teeth. yes it doesnt get hot in the gearbox but apparently the grinding action breaks down the polymers (whatever they are?) that cam and chris were talking about. possibly using sae 30 which wont get any thinner is a better protection, if youve been using it so long it must work

cheers
grainger

Actually modern oils have an anti-shear additive so that they don't break down as much by being thrashed by gears etc. They also have an anti-thermal breakdown additive which helps them stop turning into a kind of varnish when overheated (like the old oils used to). The oil industry has been hard at it since the old SAE 30 oil was cutting edge!!!

Whichever way you look at it, modern oils will offer more protection because they are more advanced.

The SAE 30 oil might well protect the gearbox, but the modern equivalent will protect it even more.

yeah but cam, do they not add those things to the quality monogrades also ? im not suggesting using the stuff they sell for lawnmowers in halfords, but MORRIS or CASTROL XL versions of sae 30 .... i was just thinking would the extra 10 points make the gearbox quieter ?

is your gearbox particularly quiet paul ?

cheers
grainger

I will have my 2pence worth on this subject of Oil.

Iam not sure what the offical moggy garage put in mine when i got it in Feb 2003 but there was allways a large patch of oil underneath wherever I parked.

My Dad got me some of the Wynn`s Stuff of the QVC Shopping channel

There was 4 bottles in the pack.
No1 was for the Oil
No2 was to get the water out of the fuel tank
No3 was for cleaning out the fuel pipes
& No4 was to clean out the Radiator.

And All for £16-33p

The whole lot has worked, I now have no leaking oil & I have a better peformance moggy.

No2 was to get the water out of the fuel tank

What was that called a drill bit
If you are suffering from water in your fuel change the garage where you fill up, and could this relate to your other posting relating to fuel pump problems

No3 was for cleaning out the fuel pipes

Not heard of that problem before, usually its the components not the pipes that are the problem unless they are corroded in which case they should be replaced

No4 was to clean out the Radiator

This will only do as a stop gap method, as the correct way to clean a radiator is to back flush it

Grainger (and anybody else!),
I think my gearbox is quiet. Can hear it in reverse ....
I haven't really paid attention o its noise but I will next time I drive it and if I change my mind I'll add a reply to this thread!

Grainger,

The later Minor manuals recommend a multigrade oil for the gearbox, so, presumably this is the best course of action.

Morris seemed to decide that multigrade oil was better and would give the advantage of less returns under warranty, which is why they recommended it's use for the engine, gearbox and carb dashpot.

The modern monogrades might well have an anti-shear additive, but, a multigrade won't thin down anywhere near as much as a monograde. If you put a thick monograde in it will be thick until it gets hot, UNLIKE a multigrade which can protect a lot better when it is hot.

You can put what the hell you like in your gearbox. If you think that SAE30 will work better, then you use it. I personally would use a multigrade.

hi

does it get hot in the gearbox ?

i havent got any problems with my gearbox, and it has engine oil in it (apparently it was a new/recon unit less than 10k ago) and it works fine. i checked it only a few weeks ago and it hasnt gone dirty at all so it must be happy. but ive had the car for over 6k now and i spose its time to change it. i'll use the morris 20/50 i have already anyway

cheers
grainger

Yes,it gets hot in a gearbox and there is no reason why
the oil should not stay clean since it has no combustion
contamination to put up with. Use multi grade engine
oil

Lo,

I've just changed all the oils this week-end. The gearbox was 20W50 which came out clear & golden i.e. looks as good as new! (ok, it's 6 months since it was done last - and about 1500 miles!).
I've replaced it with 15W40. It appears much easier to select 1st gear now, maybe the slightly lower viscosity helps. I await the expert comments!

Colin

If you choose a lower viscosity oil, then selecting 1st will be easier (especially when cold). 15W/40 should be fine (it was not around when Morris specified the oils to use), but the disadvantage with using lower viscosity oils is that it can find it's way out of oil seals easier!

Actually, a lot of people are using 15W/40 now as a direct replacement for the old 20W/50. I have it in a few cars now with no complaints.

Colin.....1500 miles and you changed the gearbox oil?
There is actually NO recommended mileage at which
the gearbox oil needs to be changed(on the later type).
The only reference I can find says"it is not necessary
to do periodic oil changes on the later type gearboxes"
Now,of course, we all like to molly coddle our Minors so
we pick a mileage and change it then but it has got to
be at least 12,000 miles. The oil stays clean,is not subject
to excessive heat or contamination and continues to do a
good job for thousands of miles. For example,on my modern
car the gearbox oil is changed at 20,000miles.

Willie,

I just have memories of the old dearie who took her Ford Anglia to the Dealer for the free 500 mile service after 20 years - using only for church on Sundays! I hate to think what that was like for oil etc!

Seriously, I've always understood that the services should be 3 months or 3000 miles; 6 months/6000 etc. My references give 6000 miles as the oil change services. Maybe I'll revise that a little as the 15W40 will leak out faster than the 20W50 (thanks Cam!)....
Then I can use the spare oil to top up the engine.

Colin

I would certainly agree that the more often you change
the engine oil the longer your engine will last but gearbox
and rear axle...entirely different kettle of fish. You pick a
mileage with which you are comfortable and change these
oils then if you so desire but work on the actual mileage
not the time expired because,as I said, these oils are not
contaminated by combustion products as in the engine,so
they do not degrade nearly so rapidly.

Brought back to life!

Chris - glad you're better!

Can you pass on the formula for the restorer>

Colin

Colin - if I had the formula I'd use it on both my 'projects' and avoid 100s of hours hard work !

I use halfrauds oil for pre 1980 cars.............