Morris Minor Owners Club

Thats right except the crossmember end should extend above the jacking point. You need to weld in a thick I section (or T section) that effectively takes the crossmember all the way to the join of the two sill panels.

The jacking point should only protrude beyond the outer sill panel it should be welded to both the front and rear floor edge sill panels.

Great work, BTW, keep it up. I managed only a few hours this weekend, some small patches to the rear near spring hangers.

thanks for that john...i had a feeling it did go there but wanted to make sure.....im surprised that the crossmember is short,just has well getting another t peice wont be a problem getting ,ive still got to do the rear leaf spring hanger area myself...will have to wait until i get other things sorted so i can jack the hole back off the floor to drop the axle...to replace the rotton area....

still got to finsh welding this in + put on the jacking point arm on

flying, you seem to have the same grinder as me!

Good work! What sort of mig have you got , wire size, what do you use to get the rust off and what are you using as an under coat/rust proofer?
Cheers

Dan_Harris wrote:flying, you seem to have the same grinder as me!

has to be a decent one for the amount of work that needs doing

millerman wrote:Good work! What sort of mig have you got , wire size, what do you use to get the rust off and what are you using as an under coat/rust proofer?
Cheers

i have the use of 2 but i mainly use 1 of them because i find it better to use which is a clark 100en turbo gas/non gas, i use 0.8mm wire ,normally flux cored because it saves having to buy gas and also i can get it fairly cheap
,depending on how rusty it is,to what i do to remove it either chop it out and replace or use a wire knot wheels then sandblast it,then use kurust to oxide the rust then,a thick coat of zinc primmer followed by a thick coat of hammerite smooth...yes expensive stuff.....then use hammerite waxoil a nice thickness,then another coat of hammerite smooth,and more waxoil,then hammerite again....i allways hammerite over top of waxoil because waxoil never goes hard and stays tacky so you do all that work,you drive it then before you know it you have stones/grit etc stuck to it and it stays there.....with the hammerite on top its dosnt happen & its easier to clean the underneath with a pressure washer and water runs of nicely

Thanks for reply. Very good welds for flux coated wire and I'm impressed with the rust proofing

thanks.....few years pratice now....and done so much welding that you get used to how the metal is going to react like when you start to weld it...also flux cored is so much better ...stick it in and start welding no fiddling getting the gas right..and work even if its windy ...well my theroy of rust proofing has work for me over the years ...you never know it might catch on

Good work again, but I'm curious. How did you manage to get Hammerite to adhere to waxoyl??? I didn't think you could paint anything over a protective underbody wax, except more underbody wax.

i cant beleave your doing that much work.
we dont see rust like that here in california.
minors are begining to be restored over here now
but not from that bad acondition.

ah yes thats the fun part....you have to leave it at least a week or pref longer the better..then you have to slap hammerite over the top(will still be soft) ....just enough to cover it slightly...and then leave it for a couple of days and then when you come to stick more on you will find that it can easly be painted on has the 1st coat has gone hard thus making the waxoil have a harder surface -then do a full coat etc

chickenjohn wrote:Good work again, but I'm curious. How did you manage to get Hammerite to adhere to waxoyl??? I didn't think you could paint anything over a protective underbody wax, except more underbody wax.

I was waiting for someone else to ask this question

If it works, it goes against everything I understand about paints and adhesion.

Surely the Hammerite must flake off really easily? Accepted wisdom is to paint over a clean, dry, well sanded and oil and grease free surface.

Having never seen or tried it, the only way I can rationalise it, is that the Hammerite must absorb the waxoyl into it's structure as part of the solvent. If this is the case the value of the waxoyl would be lost because the film would then dry out?

But as I say, I haven't tried it

Thats interesting, Flying, just to clarify, do you mean the Waxoyl under body wax or the Black waxoyl underseal?

nebogipfel wrote:
I was waiting for someone else to ask this question

Surely the Hammerite must flake off really easily? :

dont be shy.....just ask

and also i did my escort 8 yrs ago........and its still there...not flaking

and john....im using hammerite waxoil oil/under body sealant

flying wrote:
and also i did my escort 8 yrs ago........and its still there...not flaking

I'm quite intrigued by this but to be honest am having trouble visualising the result - I suppose I could just try it

Does the Hammerite dry? If it does then surely you are losing the benefit of the waxoyl because it just becomes part of the structure of the paint?

y the hammerite does dry...but it has alot to get through before it can even get to the metal has its having at least 2 coats of everything primmer/hammerite/waxoil/hammerite/waxoil oil/hammerite...the waxoil im using is made by hammerite has well with added waxoil



round 2

and also i like to say thank you to andy for the use of his garage so i can carry on the project






any one quess what the stuff inside is



thats right expanding foam

I had wondered if you could fill a waxoyled box section with polyurethane foam to give the water nowhere to go, but from the look of that sill the answer is, no you can't. Or at least, yes you can but you shouldn't.
steve