Posted: Thu Apr 13, 2006 5:14 pm
Yes - it's personal (3 times left stranded due to the infernal devices)You REALLY don't like alternators, do you...
Morris Minor Owners Club
Promoting the Preservation and Use of the Postwar Morris Minor
https://board.mmoc.org.uk/
Fitting a 1275 Engine! Jons dubious guide.
Page 3 of 3
Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 6:22 am
Worse case you can always change to an electric fan with a sender in the top hose...
Dan
Dan
Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 10:05 am
Dunketh - the heater tap problem is well know - I mentioned it again just a few days ago - and the thermostat pointing is also well know. But very well done getting the conversion in there - I just wish I could find an engine - in fact a block would do - i have two spare cranks in stock !
The easy answer with the timing cover is - fit the old one ! And use the rocker cover breather - the engine then also looks pretty much standard except to the trained eye of course!
The easy answer with the timing cover is - fit the old one ! And use the rocker cover breather - the engine then also looks pretty much standard except to the trained eye of course!
Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 2:14 pm
Just in case you missed it the first time round 
:
:Cam wrote:BMC, trouble is if you swap over to the original timing cover then the timing marks are in the wrong place! On the Marina/Ital 1275 they are at about 11 o'clock looking from the front whereas on the 1098 Minor engine they are at 6 o'clock.You CAN of course cut a new notch in the 1275 pulley but you'll have to be spot on with it and I don't recommend it for the following reason: It was deemed that the 1275 needed a FRONT engine breather so that's why it has one. If you put a 1098 front cover on then you'll not have a breather and that could well lead to oil leaks. Also, if you have a timing chain tensioner (as a lot of 1275s have) then you'll need to get rid of it or the 1098 cover won't fit!!
My advice is to cut down the canister and weld a flat section onto the front.
Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 5:15 pm
2nd that cam
Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 8:55 pm
Thanks - didn't see it first time around. For me - timing marks are waste of space - never use em! My 1275 Mini engines all have flat timing covers with no 'can' - and no oil leaks (well, no more than any Mini!). Yes - if you want to keep the tensioner you need the big cover - but far better to run duplex - and a flat timing cover !
Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 9:07 pm
Well, yes you CAN do without them but it's much easier setting static timing with them so you then have a reference point to start playing with. Of course dynamic timing is impossible without the marks.bmcecosse wrote:Thanks - didn't see it first time around. For me - timing marks are waste of space - never use em!
My 1275 Mini engines all have flat timing covers with no 'can' - and no oil leaks (well, no more than any Mini!).
Yes, Minis do leak a fair bit (well mine did).Agreed. That's what I have on my 1380cc Ital engine.Yes - if you want to keep the tensioner you need the big cover - but far better to run duplex - and a flat timing cover !
Posted: Tue May 02, 2006 6:32 pm
Have stripped down 1275 to inspect and started mods to engine breather. Inside the canister there was a mass of shrapnel which presumably acts as a strainer, what have others used to replace this, would wire wool be too fine?
Dave
Dave
Posted: Tue May 02, 2006 8:46 pm
My choice would be to do away with it - cut it off and weld a cover over the hole - or just run it empty if you really MUST keep it. Any oil is going to condense in there long before it gets up to the engine. Better still - use the old style flat cover with duplex chain.
Posted: Wed May 03, 2006 12:41 am
The transverse 1275 has a breather on the transfer/ drop gear housing, which of course the inline version doesn't.
Posted: Wed May 03, 2006 1:36 am
Just remove the 'wire' mess and leave the canister empty.
Posted: Wed May 03, 2006 9:01 am
Thanks Cam
Must try and fish out the wire wool now Ive welded it up!!!!
Dave
Must try and fish out the wire wool now Ive welded it up!!!!
Dave
Posted: Wed May 03, 2006 12:25 pm
As long as it's not restricting the breathing too much you could leave it in I guess.
Posted: Wed May 03, 2006 1:27 pm
It'll rust though, depite having oil on it...
Posted: Wed May 03, 2006 6:24 pm
Yes, better without ideally.
Posted: Thu May 04, 2006 3:05 pm
Job done, canister empty 
Dave
Dave
Posted: Tue May 23, 2006 11:33 pm
They are all mentioned along with lots of other useful info in Owen Burtons book Marina to Minor its not perfect but does advize on all the more common adjustments including the midget engine as well.I feel its something that would be of value to minor newbies. I had to search all over the place for the info I needed and certain bits like differences in stat housing and water tap weren't mentioned anywhere.
Just one other thing how did you manage to fit the engine stead without notching it to clear the heater valve.
I also did a post on fitting a Midget engine
http://www.morrisminoroc.co.uk/index.ph ... get+engine
I also think that Andrews suggestion of a useful tip on fitting the engine but making it into a locked article for all to read would be a good idea, without it being open to going of topic..
Posted: Wed May 24, 2006 6:40 am
There is enough thread on Joe's engine to put the bracket over the nut and then add another nut on top. This is also useful in that any replacement of engine or steady bar in the future doesn't involve slackening all the cylinder head nuts (to prevent warping).Just one other thing how did you manage to fit the engine stead without notching it to clear the heater valve.