Morris Minor Owners Club

I had to remove my clutch just a couple of weeks ago. Started to remove the box but it wasn't the easiest way to work. Ended up releasing the engine on to a trolley jack (with a bit of wood under the sump) backing it off enough to free the gearbox and spinning it 90 degrees. Changed the clutch, spun it back and put it all together, took an afternoon. Much easier than removing the box.

Best of luck whatever way you do it.

Tom

Fin, how old is the gas in your car? If it's too old it won't run worth a darn.

Thanks Tom, I'll keep that in mind; the engine is mostly disconnected now, and I've decided to go on and remove engine and gearbox as a unit, pulling forward, as it seems to place the least strain on the clutch.

Katy, the tank was filled with fresh fuel on 1 August, so probably a little stale now, but the last tank was quite a bit staler and the car ran fine.

Fin,

What I don't get is how a bad clutch interface could affect rpms. I can see the driveline not getting engaged properly so speed being low, but shouldn't the engine have been allowed to rev freely?

George

To be honest, I don't get it either. But I figure I can more easily inspect the engine while it's out, and since I have to withdraw it for the clutch anyway...

The engine and gearbox are out. First thing I did was part them and inspect the clutch, and the only out-of-the-ordinary thing I saw was that (as before) the thrust ring was cockeyed, but I'm going to replace the pressure plate with a spare anyway. Thank heaven for spares...

I noticed an oil leak into the bellhousing and down the back of the sump, so I had some fun pulling the backplate off and inspecting. Here's what the back of the block looked like after cleaning it up a bit:[frame][/frame]
The oil pump was in pretty good shape. No photos, but the only thing that was slightly troubling was that the two-pronged shaft (which engages the rear of the camshaft) had just a bit of side-to-side motion, implying wear. But it's not much. As you can see, the rest of it looks fairly good. The evidence from the backplate itself showed that leaks were coming from the backplate gasket and not the main crankshaft seal, but with it all cleaned up and a new gasket in place, we'll see.

Here's the new gasket...[frame][/frame]
...and here's the backplate replaced.[frame][/frame]
Sorry about the primer -- but I couldn't find my can of engine color.

Tomorrow I'll replace the pressure plate, reset the static timing, and smoothe a ridge in the throwout bearing surface. After that, I need to wash the engine and engine bay, and I MAY take the head off and have a look at the pistons and rings. If I really felt like it, I'd have the sump off and clean it, but I doubt I'll do that...that looks like a LOT of work.

Suggest that removing the sump and cleaning out all the sludge would not be such a lot of work, but would provide a great indication as to the overall state of the engine. And you can fit new cork seals front and back too! Phil

Thanks Phil, I think I'm likely to go on and do that. Should be fun.

Since my last post, I replaced the carburetor jet and needle (and centered the jet...I think), disassembled the right-front suspension so I could withdraw a broken grease nipple and replace it, rewelded a break in the left-front bumper bar support, reset the engine's static timing (I think...I really don't understand if I did or not...), and received an alternator, which I had tested. It works! It's a 35 amp model from a '60s Mini, or so said the seller.

The question I have on the alternator is how I connect it in. I've read the instructions found around the 'net, but this alternator seems to have three "Lucar" connectors on the back, rather than two:[frame][/frame]
The alternator appears to be the right model, though I have yet to find a model number on it.[frame][/frame]

I have lots of things remaining to do, and I think it's likely to be summer before Mog is roadworthy.

Hi Fingolfin,
Not sure if this will help or not but Bull Motif (and others) do the complete kit (brackets, wiring, new alternator) for £59.90 plus VAT and shipping. I've always found them very helpful. I've attached a link below.
The connection into the alternator is the same as yours, so you could keep one as a spare (always handy).
Hope this is of some use.
Happy New Year.
Mike.

http://www.morrisminorspares.net/shop_item.php?ID=2545

This is the plug you will need (bottom of page)
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... ngs.php#ap
The wiring diagram at the start of the electrical section can be your guide. The difference with your alternator is that you will need two of the wires, shown as red, from the big terminals. They both go to the starter solenoid, battery side. It seems strange at first sight but one of the wires is a voltage sensing wire for the in-built voltage regulator.

It's been a while, and I have lots and lots of updates for you in a few days, but not now. Instead, right now, I want to update you on the engine trouble.

The engine is still running just as badly as it was, and I've tried SO MANY things -- just today I replaced the condenser (no change) and tried varying the timing in exasperation (no change either direction). I've narrowed the trouble, I'm pretty sure, to the ignition system. But now I have a good clue: while the engine was "running," I removed a plug lead at a time, the idea being that removed plugs that were getting spark would cause the engine to die, and nonfunctional plugs would make no change upon removal. Well, plug leads 1, 2, and 4 saw no change.

Only Cylinder 3 is firing!!! But I think that narrows it to the distributor cap, the plug leads, and the plugs themselves -- and the plugs are practically brand-new. Anyone have anything to add? I'm very open to suggestions!

You may as well try all of the easy/free things if you haven't already (apologies in advance if this is obvious).

If your fuel supply is good, you'll have unburnt gas in the other cylinders when your running the engine. Take the plugs out and see if they are wet. In which case leave them out to dry the cylinders for a bit (clean and set the gaps while your at it). If the plugs are dry you could have a fuel issue.

Then check your spark.

Double check the points are clean and set properly and clean the rotor arm and cap connections.
Check the leads are hooked up right / make sure they're in the firing right order, dry and seated well (unlikely but worth a look).
Check there's a spark on the end of each lead with the engine running/turning - be careful its high tension, I use a cheap inline tester like this one: http://www.brewerelectrics.co.uk/produc ... /sn/633982
Rule out the HT's by swapping the good lead to another cylinder and see if it makes a difference.

That should give you enough of an idea of whether its the cheap bits or where to look next.

Thanks Romek, I'll respond to each of those good points after a general update (as I think I promised).

After the engine backplate expedition, I installed a lamp in the boot, because the darkness was bothersome at night (especially, I would imagine, while holding a flashlight AND groceries!). I know LEDs aren't "period," but this strip was pretty cheap and I think it looks good.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
The lamp is actuated by a plunger-switch on a bracket on the lid latch; when the large plunger on the lid-side latch assembly enters its guide hole, the switch is disconnected and the lamp extinguished. Works every time![frame][/frame]
Next, Phil gets the prize -- I did in fact take the sump off, just for kicks. Inside it wasn't quite as gungey as I expected; the sludge is only about 1/8" thick.[frame][/frame]
Having the sump off allowed me to inspect inside, which was highly educational. The oil strainer was devoid of contaminants (what you see are just oil drops):[frame][/frame]
The crankshaft is in good shape, so far as a visual inspection tells. The connecting rods seem to have no slop in them as the crankshaft turns.[frame][/frame]
The camshaft seems good, too. The dark spots are just oil drops. You can also see a cylinder bore and the bottom of a piston skirt, both of which look quite good to my untrained eyes.[frame][/frame]
I cleaned out the sump as well as I could:[frame][/frame]
And I fitted new cork seals:[frame][/frame]And after that it was refitted to the engine with new gaskets. So far no leaks from the gaskets, but indeterminate leaks down the backplate, which may or may not be the cork.

Next, does anyone know what all the numbers on the left side of the block mean? I'm curious because I have no engine number.[frame][/frame]They read "950" (therefore 948cc), "50 1 E", "OWOG" (which of course is just the factory insignia), "4", "2A799", and "M 21087-14", I believe.

On to other business. I FINALLY got around to heatshrinking; all accessible connectors (that means, not wide rings) in the engine bay and boot were heatshrunk, something like fifty in total. Here are the three spades on the signal can.[frame][/frame]
I replaced the windshield wiper blades again; the TEX ones from ESM were awful, but now I have nice Trico ones, and they seem to work fairly well. Still need to figure out how to get the arms to press the blades more tightly to the screen.[frame][/frame]
I fitted a neon-tube lamp under the bonnet, functioning on the same principle (plunger-switch) as the boot lamp.[frame][/frame]
The trim panels were finally fixed up and clipped/screwed into place. I've misplaced the door-pulls, though, and I may have to get new ones.[frame][/frame]
Next, I couldn't figure out what to do with the coil -- used to be mounted on the dynamo, but there was no elongated clamp to fix it to the alternator, and I could've put it on the inner wing but that would've involved drilling more holes. So instead, I made an extension piece for the dynamo clamp.[frame][/frame]
The alternator was mounted to the engine...[frame][/frame]
...and the engine and gearbox remounted to the car.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

So, where am I? Well, after some fiddling with the wiring, I DID manage to get the alternator to work -- that is, it charges the battery. When the engine runs, the lights get brighter. VERY pleased about finally fixing that circuit! Also, the clutch works MUCH better since I replaced the pressure plate, which was the whole reason the engine was withdrawn (I also replaced the throwout bearing while it was out). However, the engine is still running quite poorly, and I've run through almost every solution I can think of; so a professional mechanic is going to take a look at it in a few weeks.

And also, Christmas break is over, so no more work by me for a while. Possibly Mog will be roadworthy by spring break...but more likely, early summer break.

Now, for Romek's helpful post. It turns out that all three cylinders are getting spark, but the spark to Cylinder 3 was stronger than the others, as I was able to see by sticking a screwdriver in each lead and letting it spark across to the plug. That directed me to the plug leads, so I replaced all of those, but the problem persists. That implies the dizzy cap, but it looks absolutely free of any great wear or tracking; I have yet to try replacing it.

The plugs are usually wet, but that's because I have yet to set the mixture properly (difficult when the engine won't stay running!). I did have the plugs out a while and upon putting them back, the engine did run some better, so perhaps it is partly a flooding issue.

The points have been replaced with brand-new ones; it made no difference. They are gapped to 15 thou on high cam, which I believe is correct. The rotor arm has been cleaned up and looks good, and as I mentioned, so does the cap. The firing order is definitely correct, as I've checked a good twenty times.

I've gotten it back to running, but it refuses to run well, and very little makes any difference; turning the distributor doesn't (well, a little bit, but not as much as you'd expect), changing the idle and mixture doesn't, and as you read already, changing many of the ignition system bits doesn't. It turns over by hand very smoothly, and inspection with the sump removed allowed me to rule out a cracked crankshaft or anything terrible like that.

I'm hopeful a professional will have better luck than I have had. Like I say, this is the last thing before roadworthiness.

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Where the intake manifold attaches to the head, where the carburetor attaches to the manifold, etc.
In the overhead picture of the engine in the car there appears to be a white coloured object between the carburetor and the manifold, what is that? Or am I just seeing things that aren't there?

Good thinking Katy; all I can say on vacuum is that I've sucked on the pipe, and the plate in the dizzy turned. For what that's worth.

The white is a reflection of high-intensity work lights on the polished surfaces of the intake manifold, to the left, and the carburetor, to the right. Between them is an induction heater (which isn't wired in), which is black, but serves to accentuate the brightness of the metal.

Fingolfin wrote:Thanks Romek, I'll respond to each of those good points after a general update (as I think I promised).

After the engine backplate expedition, I installed a lamp in the boot, because the darkness was bothersome at night (especially, I would imagine, while holding a flashlight AND groceries!). I know LEDs aren't "period," but this strip was pretty cheap and I think it looks good.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
The lamp is actuated by a plunger-switch on a bracket on the lid latch; when the large plunger on the lid-side latch assembly enters its guide hole, the switch is disconnected and the lamp extinguished. Works every time![frame][/frame]
Next, Phil gets the prize -- I did in fact take the sump off, just for kicks. Inside it wasn't quite as gungey as I expected; the sludge is only about 1/8" thick.[frame][/frame]
Having the sump off allowed me to inspect inside, which was highly educational. The oil strainer was devoid of contaminants (what you see are just oil drops):[frame][/frame]
The crankshaft is in good shape, so far as a visual inspection tells. The connecting rods seem to have no slop in them as the crankshaft turns.[frame][/frame]
The camshaft seems good, too. The dark spots are just oil drops. You can also see a cylinder bore and the bottom of a piston skirt, both of which look quite good to my untrained eyes.[frame][/frame]
I cleaned out the sump as well as I could:[frame][/frame]
And I fitted new cork seals:[frame][/frame]And after that it was refitted to the engine with new gaskets. So far no leaks from the gaskets, but indeterminate leaks down the backplate, which may or may not be the cork.

Next, does anyone know what all the numbers on the left side of the block mean? I'm curious because I have no engine number.[frame][/frame]They read "950" (therefore 948cc), "50 1 E", "OWOG" (which of course is just the factory insignia), "4", "2A799", and "M 21087-14", I believe.

On to other business. I FINALLY got around to heatshrinking; all accessible connectors (that means, not wide rings) in the engine bay and boot were heatshrunk, something like fifty in total. Here are the three spades on the signal can.[frame][/frame]
I replaced the windshield wiper blades again; the TEX ones from ESM were awful, but now I have nice Trico ones, and they seem to work fairly well. Still need to figure out how to get the arms to press the blades more tightly to the screen.[frame][/frame]
I fitted a neon-tube lamp under the bonnet, functioning on the same principle (plunger-switch) as the boot lamp.[frame][/frame]
The trim panels were finally fixed up and clipped/screwed into place. I've misplaced the door-pulls, though, and I may have to get new ones.[frame][/frame]
Next, I couldn't figure out what to do with the coil -- used to be mounted on the dynamo, but there was no elongated clamp to fix it to the alternator, and I could've put it on the inner wing but that would've involved drilling more holes. So instead, I made an extension piece for the dynamo clamp.[frame][/frame]
The alternator was mounted to the engine...[frame][/frame]
...and the engine and gearbox remounted to the car.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

So, where am I? Well, after some fiddling with the wiring, I DID manage to get the alternator to work -- that is, it charges the battery. When the engine runs, the lights get brighter. VERY pleased about finally fixing that circuit! Also, the clutch works MUCH better since I replaced the pressure plate, which was the whole reason the engine was withdrawn (I also replaced the throwout bearing while it was out). However, the engine is still running quite poorly, and I've run through almost every solution I can think of; so a professional mechanic is going to take a look at it in a few weeks.

And also, Christmas break is over, so no more work by me for a while. Possibly Mog will be roadworthy by spring break...but more likely, early summer break.

mmmmmmm yes your cork gasket needs to be trimed
it appears from the pic that its too long preventing a tight seal

i like the extension for the coil mount that you made up.. simple but very good solution

Alex, well-sighted, but I did trim the cork seals -- the BMC Workshop Manual says they should stand proud 1/8 inch (section AA.34), and that is the "proudness" to which I cut them. In fact they are just a hair less proud than 1/8 inch, either side.

Thanks, Charlie. So far it's working -- though I had to add a metal spacer between clamp and alternator body to get the clamp to be good and tight.

Fin, do you have the rear bracket on the alternator? Can't tell from the pics if it's there or not.[frame][/frame]