Morris Minor Owners Club

The weather will dictate to me when to restart the green side panels. I'm considering chemical paint stripping them right off so I can start with bare metal as suggested. Meanwhile the boxer panels have arrived. The picture shows one resting on the floor just for size comparison, and boy just look at that extra length they give you on the repair panel.
It looks like a measure twice cut once situation. Do I leave a slight lip either end to let me weld it to the A and B pillers?

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The boxing plate needs to be fitted behind the B post and hinge pillar and as far forward as the front inner arch. I have just purchased the same panel for a pickup we are doing and they are the correct length.
You should drill plug holes on the A and B post flanges in order to weld through onto the Boxing plate, if the flanges are poor , then replace them or run an additional seam weld along the joint.
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Jonathon, I notice in the picture that the new piece fitted to the bottom of the B post actually appears to fit! Did you 1--(like me) use the bottom of another B post to achieve this or 2-- are the replacement sections getting better and used them or 3-- spent a week modifying said replacement panel to fit?

You have been there then Les !!. I think we were fortunate enough to have a pretty good pair of B post repairs.
Have just done Kates though which required some persuasion

You WERE fortunate, before throwing my replacements over the fence I measured the width, approx ---3/8'' wider than original!

Ive got a bit of a hitch on my boxer panel situation then, my post bottom ends are closed off to the floor edges, so I have to do some head scratching over these at a later date, though there is a small flange that I could weld to...
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this of course depends on the weather improving to give me a chance to get the big bit out of the garage to give me some room to work. In the meantime theres plenty to be getting on with. The rear tub offside panel has some rusted through patches that need replacing. Here Ive cut this nasty looking piece out with a cutting disc...

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Have you removed the boxing panel or was it always missing

putting my new Panel bumping hammers and shaping dollies to good use, the patch involves a difficult (for me) curved piece that needs to fit.[frame][/frame]

getting the compond curve right is the difficult part, along with making the panel a reasonably good fit, making the joggle line straight and in the right place. Then its chemical paint stripping time, and making a good clean shiny steel surface prepared for welding.


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Johnathon the boxing panel was always missing, this is how it was when I purchased it.

much head scratching needed here, the bottom end of the b post is open to the elements..[frame][/frame]

here's a view along the sill looking back behind the B post, the top is welded to the floor panel, so getting this closed off using the boxing panel is going to need a little bit of tweeking.[frame][/frame]

You are going to need to seperate the B post and Hinge pillar from the floor and sill panels to allow the correct fitting of the Boxing panel. Dont be tempted to cut and shut the boxing panel as a short cut. The bottom end of the B post will be sealed when you fit the correct sills.
Use this oportunity to set the door gaps as the B post will be moveable backwards/forwards and up and down, so its essential that you re fit the cab back inner and outer front panels and front wings to align all of these parts.Prefrerably done whilst bolted to the chassis, for correct alignment.

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Lots to think about there then. in the meantime I'm continuing work on my green panels. I used self taping screws to hold the panels tightly together to stop them moving apart during welding.
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after a lot more wire brushing to get down to real unrusted shiney silver coloured steel, managed to get the panel in. Not the greatest neat seamless patch work. I will have to use the new metal as a backing for fibre glass / body filler to get the shape right. Neat no, strong yes.
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and there's lots more where that came from. This rear corner is as rusty as it is complex in shape. Looks like a proper repair panel will have to go in there.[frame][/frame]

But first, I'm going for this here curved piece. I'm going to take a section out of there and joggle in a new bit after shaping it over a timber former to get the curved flange.[frame][/frame]

I used a thin steel rule to replicate the curve of the wheel arch and scribbed it onto a card template, then cut the shape out in plywood. This gave me the pattern for the piece of wheelarch I was going to cut out and replace.[frame][/frame]

Then clamped the cut out curve onto the plywood leaving 15mm of the steel proud to bend over at a right angle forming my repair panel.
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