Morris Minor Owners Club

Fin,

Still, it's progress. Finals Week is almost here so you'll get more done.

George

Finals are done and gone (and good riddance!), and I'm back home. Mog isn't very happy though.

I tried yet another RB340 control box, and believe it or not, it works -- the warning light goes out and the ammeter registers a charge (though only about 10 amps at idle, which may or may not be odd). However, this box has a swamp resistor on the back, and that resistor gets incredibly hot very quickly -- such that the resistor is smoking within fifteen seconds of the cut-outs closing. Dunno what to do now. Bidding on an alternator on eBay.

Yesterday the engine ran fine, but I tried it tonight (to tinker some more with the control box), and it's running really roughly at idle, and won't accelerate above 1500rpm. Any ideas?

There's also the strangest leaking from somewhere around the exhaust clamp -- liquidy black carbon, dripping down the pipe and splattering on the engine, but it doesn't smell of petrol or oil. I've got the clamp as tight as it'll go, and some exhaust paste inside, and the manifolds and carburetor are tight too. I just don't understand it.

I'm so very discouraged. Just when something starts to go right, something major goes wrong. Why is it that I can't have things go right?

I wonder if I haven't got a burst head gasket? That would explain the slightly-awkward compression readings, and water getting into the exhaust. It doesn't explain, of course, the control box or the fact that the exhaust seems to be leaking (though I can't really tell where it's coming from).

The black liquid from the exhaust is purely water from condensation - as you're not going anywhere in the car and it's not warming up properly it won't burn off. beware of this as it is the downfall of many an exhaust system and engine wear.

The ammeter should show zero or a slight charge under normal conditions.

That makes sense. Thanks, Jowett. Could sitting like this, with the buildup of residue and water, be causing the terribly rough running?

Could be, run it for 1/2 hour or more until it gets good and hot. Rev it up a few times and see if it evens out.

If the head gasket is burst then you will start noticing that the dip stick is reading high, the radiator low, and eventually a white creamy froth on the oil or radiator cap.

It may just be that it has been sitting too long. Let's hope it goes away after warming up.


George

Thanks, gentlemen, I'll give that a shot first thing tomorrow. Haven't run it for a whole half an hour in years.

George, I checked the dipstick this evening after the engine had cooled down, and the level is roughly the same as it had been since I filled the engine a few months ago -- if anything, it's just a hair lower. Let's hope it stays there!

Fin,

You need to go out and drive your car. All of this short, stationary running is not good for the engine. The oil does not get hot enough to burn off the condensation and the black water coming out of the exhaust is another downfall. Normal, but not good for the life of the exhaust system. I know you are trying to work some of the bugs out, but even short drives would be better than idling.
Dave

Plus it will prevent more trouble in the form of sticking brakes, wheels, clutch and transmission. Go on - take it for a drive!

I appreciate that fact, gentlemen. I do drive it up and down my driveway, for what it's worth, but that's only about half a mile long. But how can I possibly take it on the road if it won't rev over 1700rpm? It wouldn't make it back up the hill my house is on!

Check your ht leads are all pushed in properly (something could have come loose) and of course dry. Also worth checking your points / distributor cap. Don't be discouraged, its all part of the fun.

Fin,

Romek is right. Since there is no computer the only thing controlling revs is gas and spark. When it's cold I'd also pull the line from the fuel pump to the carb. Have a container ready and then use the ignition to get power to the pump. Gas should come out if the filter (in the pump?) is not clogged.

George

Check the timing, I suspect too retarded. What method to you use to check the timing?

The regulator is not a great mystery. The cut-out solenoid closes once the generator puts out enough and makes the red light the high resistance circuit. The other solenoid will open if the voltage goes too high. All of the books have easy to follow procedures to check the functions and adjust accordingly. You just need a voltmeter. Quite often some sanding of the points does the trick. I suspect with the cut-out closed you are running fully battery voltage through that resistor. Take one step at a time. Ensure the dynamo is putting out and then check the current flow and functions through the regulator.

I just tried to post a big long post, but it went poof for some reason. Lemme recover my dignity and type it again.

Jaekl, I'm not using the regulator you think I'm using -- instead of the traditional RB106/2 with two solenoids, I'm using an RB340 with three solenoids, which was fitted to (for instance) Jaguar XJ6s. This regulator came with the car, and the car ran like a charm before I wrecked it. I've been assured on another thread that this regulator SHOULD work. I have sanded the screw points and cut-out to a mirror shine, checked the dynamo I dunno how many times (it's good), and attempted all the inane tests with voltmeters and ammeters that you can read about here beginning page 18: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/pdf/Luc ... _Tests.pdf Also, I can just about promise you that my dynamo works beautifully, as I've done quite a number of tests (and have had tests done) and they all show positive.

I have never checked or reset the timing, because it's always run pretty sweetly and so I haven't had impetus to do anything with it. This horrible running only just began -- timing can't possibly go out on its own that quickly, can it?

I tried to run the car for a good long drive, but it stalls every time I apply the clutch (even with me flooring the accelerator while pressing the clutch). The engine refuses to exceed 2000rpm, but I did get it up to 1900 with some cajoling. The HT leads are all good, not cracked and solidly placed in the cap, and the LT leads are screwed up tight. The points were just a little dirty, but they cleaned up with some paint thinner on a Q-Tip, and are not burnt or pitted. The cap is in good shape and has no cracking. The fuel pump is pumping out fuel, and the filter is wholly clean and unclogged.

What next?

There is a loud inhalation sound coming from the carburetor when the engine runs -- as if the engine is unable to get enough air. I took off the air filter, ran the engine, and played with the damper; the damper is strangely hard to raise, where before it had been very free, but raising the damper by hand did not improve the engine's running (instead, raising it a hair too far caused the engine to die). So, while that may be an issue, it's not the issue that's causing the engine to run badly.

I don't think it's the clutch, because I get no judder through the clutch pedal when it's depressed. Under the rocker cover is clean and free of "mayonnaise," and the rockers move freely (except for normal compression resistance) when the engine is turned by hand.

So, Jaekl, I guess you get the prize -- I'll try fiddling with the timing next. Where's my manual...?

Sounds like you also have to recenter the jet. If the piston is not rising, you will not be able to increase the engine speed. The piston must be able to go up and down with little force. Perhaps the damper is stuck.

The damper did seem very sluggish. It took a lot of force to raise it, but upon acceleration, it did move with the increased airflow.

In any case, that's not what's wrong. I ran the engine for a little while -- maybe ten minutes -- but the leak from the exhaust manifold (I'm certain that's where it's coming from now) kept getting worse, so I shut it down. The car is still sitting out of its enclosure, so I started it again and attempted to engage first gear, at which point it stalled. I tried to start it again, and it wouldn't start; I tried several times and got nothing. Then, maybe the fourth try, I heard a new crunching sound, not very loud but noticeable, and I quickly discovered that crunching sound went away when the clutch was engaged.

Looking into the bellhousing, it appears that the clutch pressure plate has had a spring go out of alignment. Even with the pedal disengaged, the pressure ring is engaging the throwout bearing. I'll try to look again in the daylight tomorrow, but...it appears the engine must come out again.

I managed to get Mog into reverse gear today, with the intention of turning it around to give better access for an engine hoist. It backed up fine (though very nearly stalled as it went into gear), but -- just my luck -- I backed it down a slight incline, and now first gear won't engage (or any forward gear), so Mog is stuck. If it weren't for the incline, I could push it. Now I'll have to tow it out, but I can't find the chains, and poor dad broke his ankle so he can't help me.

I'm hoping to either withdraw the gearbox from beneath and then work on the clutch with the engine still in, or withdraw the engine via the "spin-and-lift" method (which is probably the better option). Either way, I can keep the bonnet, grille/frontispiece, and gearbox cover attached, which saves a lot of the work. Not today, though; today I'm repainting the bonnet blades, and starting heatshrinking if I can find the heat gun.

Wish me luck...