Morris Minor Owners Club

rear view of the chassis.<br><br>

chassis leg<br><br>

I think I'd start of with getting it all blasted to see exactly what needs replacing then go from there. I'm sure the LCV boys will be along to tell you what parts you can get.....

I'm growing acustomed to the sight of rust, it would appear that after first impressions, it comes down to: two forward outer chassis leg's need replacing... <br><br>

i think you can get the extra long front chassis legs, well they did do them a few years ago but they were not cheap

from memory these longer sections were over £100.00 each and they were specially made

you may even need to fabricate some parts by the look of it,the rusting looks pretty severe,

i would slao take off all the top sections and see what lurks under neath


you can get rear end sections, rear cross piece and thats about it i think

best bet is to email or pm russ harvey on here

is that the original one

I've just spotted that the two upright triangles that should be on the top of the front rails which support the bulklhead and body aren't there. My bad - I guess you will need them, as I don't think they come with the replacemnt chassis repairs, so if the ones you have aren't salvageable and/or you just want them, shout and I'll sort some out for you. IOU. Sorry.
"is that the original one"
Nope, it's an original 1971

Your best bet is to remove all the top plate, it's the only way to see if repair is viable. I rebuilt the front legs on my chassis as I wasn't happy with the internal structure around the Eye bolt tube on the repro ones, but in your case it looks like you have no option, but would suggest you check that area out on the new one and reinforce as needed. I have photos of my efforts to duplicate the original and most other internal chassis areas that may be handy when you get further on. There is also an alighnment drawing with the appropriate dimensions that you may need as you will be doing some serious removing of metal. Good luck, it's a long road!

Thanks Les, could you post those pictures on here? they would be a great help.

I can only post one picture at a time for some reason!
This one may help with the strengthening around the eye bolt

This is with the outer skin removed. Looking from underneath.

dave glad to see you got a chassis to work on this last weekend I have located 2 van pick up chassis not sure what condition but I am told repairable, this guy has around 40 or more minors in his compound and I have mentioned about replying to the wanted side of this site hopefully he may respond I have his mob No if any one wants

Cheers Tog, I'm going to have to make a go of this one, the first hurdle is getting it shot blasted in a firm in Arundel called blast treat, they can do a whole minor chassis for £60 to £80. I'll have to get those top plates off to get the insides blasted, then I can see where I'm going.
If I'm to keep the project afordable and on track I've got to use this chassis. I'll keep this thread updated, when I can afford the next step.

David I know I live 250 miles from Arundel but what a small world I used to work for blast treat as a lorry driver 36 years ago used to be a great place to work and great lads did,nt know the place was still going used in littlehampton but moved to arundel along the river if I can remember. David may have a pickup roof linning will have to see what condition it is if your intrested

Back to the cab in the meantime, I need to upend it to gain access to the underside. the rust eaten clag under the cab needs clearing off so I can repair the floor. I wonder if it'll be wise to tip it onto it's back, do you think it could withstand such a move? the image was taken before the windscreen and engine bay were stripped out, but this picture gives you the right view.<br><br>

TOG, Sure, I'm interested, could you take a look at it and let us all know what it's like, could you post a picture here?

Now then, while I'm on the cab can anyone advise me how to remove that dash instrument without damaging the glass and the face of the dial. I want to put that back some time in the distant future, exactly as it was originally.

the speedo? two scews hold it in, either side. you get to them through the holes in the glovebox - dont completely undo em or they will get lost. it then pushes out from behind

Cheers Dan, I'll crack on with that tommorow afternoon, I'll post some pictures here tommorow night.

I wouldnt risk tipping it without some bracing, if you dont have your welder yet you could bolt some angle iron or strong wood on. I would brace between the A and B posts just above the sill step and between the both B posts at the back. It would even be worth refitting the back window panel before you do this and it will be right. You could use the original cage nuts for the back section to bolt through. You can just about see through the mess were I braced the traveller wood when it was off.

Thanks David, I was considering a temporary re fit of the lower nearside door to add some strength, but you're right, bracing is a must. I can't fit the cab rear panel, i'd risk denting it if I tip the cab backward.