Morris Minor Owners Club

The engine rebuild is complete and it has a nice shiny coat of engine paint ready to start bolting bits back on[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

The wood is getting several coats of preserver at the moment too. It's going to be quite a long process. It gets a good liberal coat then is allowed to dry, after which it is rubbed down with a Scotchbright pad to give a smooth surface. So far it has had three coats and is definitely becoming less and less porous.
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I put a tarpaulin in the bottom of the box the wood came in, raised up on tyres. It makes quite a convenient facility![frame][/frame]

Could you not just pause for a bit? I need to catch up ;)

Sparticus wrote:Could you not just pause for a bit? I need to catch up ;)

Catch up??? I haven't even started!!!

Make sure you get plenty of preserver in the joints, they are the weak spots for rot, and the drain holes in the waist rails.

MarkyB wrote:Make sure you get plenty of preserver in the joints, they are the weak spots for rot, and the drain holes in the waist rails.

Thanks Marky, I am trying to make sure that it's getting plenty of preserver everywhere, as much as it can take with as long as it takes to soak in. The good thing about doing it in the "box" is that it stands in the preserver that runs off so it just keeps soaking in. I'm not sure just how many coats and how long it will take though. Looking closely at the joints, the glue used seems to prevent the preserver soaking in, or at least soaking in through the join. I suppose that means the joint is watertight though. I also think that the secret to long life will be ongoing maintenance. For sure there will be cracks or micro-cracks in the joints in future and so regular retreatment will be done.

Hello, are there any more updates after page 20 please, Its a fantastic resource, seeing how and where the panels fit together, mines a rust bucket and I am about to complete repairs to keep her on the road. Being able to copy your pictures and paste into office word, I can then blow up sections to see exactly how mine ought to be. Its a wonderful job you are doing, lovely car.

Yes, I need to put on a couple more pictures. Basically I have been spending a lot of time treating and flattening the wood, which does not make exciting reading!

ChrissieDavis wrote:Hello, are there any more updates after page 20 please, Its a fantastic resource, seeing how and where the panels fit together, mines a rust bucket and I am about to complete repairs to keep her on the road. Being able to copy your pictures and paste into office word, I can then blow up sections to see exactly how mine ought to be. Its a wonderful job you are doing, lovely car.

Seconded! Excellent work and very clear photos. Good idea to collate it in 'Word', as might not stay up on the site forever.

Here is the engine pretty much back together and painted.[frame][/frame]

The wood has now had five coats of Cuprinol and eight coats of Danish oil.[frame][/frame]
I think one more coat before assembly and another couple afterwards should do the trick![frame][/frame]
Not very good pictures, but there is not much to see in the way of a coating, it just looks like smooth shiny wood, but not glossy. It is much more of a honey colour than it looks in the pictures.

Awesome

If you want the timber to outlast even the youngest of owners why not get it Tanalised.

If you have a good quality timber merchant nearby they might have this system on site. for a small fee they will put it through for you.

I use a place nearby where I live for all sorts of timber constructed items to be trated

M.M

Morris Mike wrote:If you want the timber to outlast even the youngest of owners why not get it Tanalised.

I've often wondered this - but really you would need it to be VAC-VAC treated, not Tanalised. Tanalising is for structural timbers, eg floor joists, and although very effective can affect the dimensionsal stability of the timber (and usually stains it green). VAC-VAC treatment is used on finished joinery such as window frames and keeps the dimensional accuracy. You normally send the frame for treatment after machining but before assembling and gluing. I'll investigate further when I get to the timber stage next year (or the year after......)

Mark

You are right in one respect.

I would not put my lovely Ash timber through this process along with a bunch of fencing timber and have it looking like the Incredible Hulk (green).

I constructed a bespoke handbuilt timber conservatory some 20 years ago using softwood timber.
Before assembly I took it along and had the timber treated,it is in the same condition today.

But then again it sits outside in the elements all the time ..a Morris Minor Traveller would not sit outside for twenty years.

In this day and age with all this timber technology I cannot believe the treatment on the ash frames for Travellers is still left to the home handyman to purchase whatever he thinks is best from say his local DIY store to try and stop the timber from decaying.

G.F

I think the biggest problem is that everyone seems to want instant solutions these days. Man has been working, preserving and protecting wood for centuries and there are more than enough products available. The most important thing is that good quality products are used and they are used properly. The key as with most things is time, patience and attention to detail.

I am now into double figures with the applications and have only just reached the stage where the grain of the wood is not raising after drying. Each coat it applied thinly and allowed to completely harden for at least one or two days in the dehumidified shed before being de-nibbed (very lightly abraded) and the next coat applied. It is a long drawn out procedure and something that might be frowned upon (or should that be "eyebrows raised at") in todays fast moving world. But the result will be wood that is good for at least another 50 years and much longer if looked after properly.

Long overdue an update!

I have painted the side panels, fitted them to the woodwork and mounted the sides on the body...[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

I will add some extra installation to the sides, but the roof was done before fitting...[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

I trial fitted the rear doors and bumper to make sure everything lined up ok. The doors look a bit off in the picture, but I think that's because of the camera angle...[frame][/frame]

Now I can repeat the preservation process on the doors.

I also fitted the gearbox to engine and then into the car...[frame][/frame]