Morris Minor Owners Club

The safest thing to do would be to fit all new brake cylinders and pipes. Though if you want I could send you an OK pair of used rear cylinders for the cost of postage.

But on the other side, disaster, the nut was immovable, locked solid, and it sheared off, how am I going to get that out?

that's just the banjo bolt - the cylinder needs replacing, but would have needed that anyway. the banjo bolt is not expensive.
The life expectancy of a rear cylinder on a car parked over grass/dirt is not very long at all. They last much longer if they have a good rubber boot but usually the boot is split or missing, and some of the new ones are rubbish too.

If the bleed screw can be removed from the brass 'banjo' then the banjo is likely to be reuseable. I clean up the surfaces to make sure it will seal well. You will need new copper washers or you can soften the old ones by heating until cherry red and dropping in water (the opposite of steel). The washer under the banjo bolt will have aquired a stepped surface which is hard to clean up - I usually file it flat to make sure all debris is cleaned off the surface.

aha, things are starting to make sense now, thanks gents, I'd better get those drums stripped and the cylinders replaced with new one's.
Should I expect a cloud of asbestos dust when I take the covers off the drums? and more to the point who does new cylinders and pipes? or can I make my own pipes?

davidmiles wrote: Should I expect a cloud of asbestos dust when I take the covers off the drums? and more to the point who does new cylinders and pipes? or can I make my own pipes?

Clouds of dust - probably not, but possible if the shoes on there are very old and etc etc
Cyliinders and pipes - all the suppliers, none of whom I'm allowed to mention as a moderator - others will point you in the right direction(s), or I can just tell you on Mon.

try bull motiff
good parts turn around

I'm a big fan of Bull Motif too....

And me... they'll do everything you need for a decent rear end. ;) You might be able to buy a kit from them that does ALL of your brakes, including new pipes, cylinders, grommets, shoes, springs and possibly even a new backing plate if it doesn't clean up too well.

So, Bull motif, I'll be looking them up on the internet later, but for today, it being a sunny sunday just prior to a trip to North Summerset to collect my next large lump for my project, some project/route planning was on the cards, that it took place in a pub garden over a couple of pints had nothing to do with it, only doing what the rest of of the country was doing, holding up the true British way of life aaahhhhhh.<br><br>

Anyway, back to work. Spring hangers,this time with the leaf spring firmly gripped in a small vice, safety first, but hell, these bolts are really frozen in, could anyone recommend a penetrating oil that will help here.<br><br>

I'd probably grind them off and get new ones...

plus gas is good if you can get it, but id replace the shackle pins as chances are theyre baddly pitted and rust eatten.

Try a ring spanner or socket on a breaker bar and give it a whack with an engineers hammer.
A short, sharp, shock works wonders on nuts that have become as one with their bolts.
At a push an engineers club hammer may be required and if things are desperate a chippys claw hammer may work too

a bloody big blow torch should do it.....

Good point, if shock alone doesn't work try shock and awe, er heat.
Expect some nasty screeching noises but they are the sound of success

well, it did come free with a screech, but I'd soaked it in domestic general purpose oil, after a pint down the pub, and a good soak, they came free. British beer can solve many engineering problems, but only on sundays.<br><br>

Well done

No one mentioned impact drivers; I love my impact driver, despite it looking increasingly like a mushroom.

I actually got it back when I was stripping my first MZ, but it's found many uses since then and Nikki found it terribly handy when she was stripping Hebe.

Here is the Chassis, collected it today, well ok then, not as solid as I thought, any practical advice regarding how to proceed with its restoration would be gratefully appreciated...<br><br>

here's a couple of close ups<br><br>

should this have a top plate?<br><br><br><br>