Page 14 of 75
Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 5:12 pm
by d_harris
Have you seen the link to the 100 quid pickup back on ebay? Aupickup has put it in the for sale sectionl (not his sale tho)
Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 8:21 pm
by davidmiles
No Dan didn't see that, I'm rather champing at the bit at the moment to get stuck into the project, but its daft when everything is so soaking wet. Its chucking it down in West Sussex, a heavy shower every five minutes.
I'm out there craning my neck in, looking for any new rust spots. none so far.
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 1:13 am
by davidmiles
Just been reading practical classics magazine and they recommended Namrick uk for fixings in their Jag rebuild, anyone had any experience with them. I'm in need of many new shiney nuts, bolts and clips.
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 6:33 pm
by taupe
Hi
I have used Namric for fasteners and was very satisfied with the service and quality. If you need a lot of one size its worth scanning ebay as when bought individually the costs can add up.
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 8:13 pm
by catswhisker
David,
There is one in Portland road, Hove . actually !!
Was called the nut and bolt store but i'm pretty sure that's Namrick.
Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:28 pm
by davidmiles
cheers cats, I'll visit them tommorow, hope they're still there.
if they are I could save a packet on postage.
Its strange but this bottom tailgate support panel looked far better before I stripped it off, close examination of it shows thats its totally "US". About as UnServiceable as most of the relic turned out to be.
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Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:30 pm
by davidmiles
But some close examination can reveal how the rear floor attaches to the rear panel/ tailgate...
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Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:49 pm
by davidmiles
here's how it looked, now you can see why I was fooled into thinking that panel was better than it is, looks straight enough, but looks can be deceiving.
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Posted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 3:48 pm
by davidmiles
catswhisker your memory serves you well, the nut and bolt shop is still there in Portland rd Hove, great place ,excellent discovery. Ive managed to get the cab bolted down with brand new shiney versions of the original imperial bolts. And the engine mounts fitted up just perfectly.
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Posted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 5:19 pm
by catswhisker
Nice One, glad to have been able to help.
I am in awe of your project and follow it with great interest.
Good luck with it , need some decent weather now(don't hold your breath !)
Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:03 pm
by davidmiles
well christmas is out of the way, so its back to work on the old pickup rear tub sides. This pair are safely tucked away clean and dry in the bike shed.
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Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:07 pm
by davidmiles
The grey sides are in worse condition, but a run with the wire brush shows just how much work is needed to get these in a usable state.
The front lower edge has rusted clear away, that will need new steel joggled on.
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Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:13 pm
by davidmiles
The internal bracing has rusted through in two places, both at the front end, new pieces will need to be made and welded in. the lower panels have been rust treated to stop any further decline, but they are quite strong up to the rusted edges.
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Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:30 pm
by davidmiles
the outer arch was tested by the wire brush and proved to be packed full of filler. the metal crescent welded in the interior side has been used as a filler backing. The arch has rusted right through in several places. Even so, the panel is well worth repair.
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Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:51 pm
by rayofleamington
you can by the arch sections including about 10mm of flat panel, so it avoids having to repair the formed areas...
[update - I just saw the 3 panels on page 18 in Iain's post, so you'd already know that

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Right in front of the arch (aout half way up) you can see that the flat section is holed. This will be where mud&salt has collected under the floor. When I repaired this area on mine using a few inches of metal but welded in, it distorted the flatness of the panel

Therefore be prepared to take care on that bit! A decent panel beater would have sorted it in a couple of hours (or less) but mine were on the car at the time.
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 1:36 pm
by rich-legg
If you're worried about distortion, you can buy 'Coldfont' from Frosts, it stops the heat travelling and will stop the distorion.
Which sides are you using then, then grey ones or the Green ones?
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 1:42 pm
by rich-legg
Oh, and careful if you're using a wire brush on the angle grinder to strip the paint in these areas, as they create heat too, and can distort the panel.
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 7:01 pm
by rayofleamington
Oh, and careful if you're using a wire brush on the angle grinder to strip the paint in these areas, as they create heat too, and can distort the panel.
you'll also get free accupuncture in your arms/leggs/face so remember the goggles etc... ;-)
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 7:32 pm
by davidmiles
The Grey one's were the plan, but I think they are too far gone for my fledgling panel beating abilities. the green one's are begining to come further into my mind as the sides of choice. Having watched the local specialist repair the rear wings on a mk2 jag, Ive got some ideas on how to proceed. (Slow and carefully comes to mind)
Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 5:01 pm
by davidmiles
Ive ordered this Joggler tool from E bay for £45, i chose one that is just a joggler and not a combined hole cutter, thought Id make the weld hole with a seperate drill after the joggler has bent the angle, that way I'm guessing there's little chance of causing a distortion. And I though that a single purpose tool does one job very well, rather than several jobs ok. what do you think?
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