Morris Minor Owners Club

I already have the bushes, oddly, they came with the van pickup suspesion set.
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you can have it

are they not worth bothering about them Josh?

yes i already have one

Dean, it helps reduce engine movement, particulary when reversing as it helps reduce clutch judder. You can run without one. They are often fitted upside down and that causes the bracket on the bulkhead to break off which is why you see all sorts of home made versions. They dont need to be really tight.

Here's a photo of mine. They are available from ESM. http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 828c69d802
I put some stainless steel tubing over the threaded rod as it looks better and prevents the threaded rod acting as a file. I think it is sturdier than the original design.<br><br>

Looks tidy, what is the gubbins on the top of the heater valve for?

It changes the "push heater" to a pull heater function. I just prefer it that way.

Did you put "push off" on the control?

Well my new master cylinder push rod arrived today, trouble is Ive now got a modern to fix before its MOT. Needs new brake pads and discs, I would never have even considered tackling it before starting on this morris project. Looking at the haynes manual for my Nissan Almera, it looks well within my current capabilities, I should save myself nearly £400, with just the new brake parts to shell out for.<br><br>

just a 'minor' question .. get it.. .. well.. concerning that engine steady rod, wouldn't it be wiser to have something with a little bit of play, as it just laws of physics, when you rev the engine, it moves.

As im doing a resto on my minor too, i actually am a jap car enthusiast aswell (which my jap car is running 320bhp beast whoevers not interested ).
But in that car, I used an engine damper, would it not be wise to use one of those instead of just shearing the rod bolts again in the future.

just my opinion.

Usually the 'give' in the rubber bushes is enough on a car with only a handful of hp!

No problem in fitting either a harmonic damper or a just a basic crank damper but the steady bar was introduced because of the feable engine mounts not doing a good enough job. As Les says - with only at best 50 bhp it's not a major issue unless you go higher. I promise I will get round to giving you a call, by the way..... ;-)

This is an old piston for the master cylinder,it is a close fit down the cylinder bore so I think I'll be able to re use it, with the rubber set due soon I'll be able to renew that seal on it. How does that come off, brute thumb strength?
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Run a wee screwdriver round the edge, then push it in behind the rubber and force it off!! Check the cylinder bore very carefully for pitting. I have put kits into master cylinders before, generally they dont last a long time. I would be inclined to fit a new mc when your doing such a major restoration.

So brand new master cylinders come complete with piston,pushrod, boot,seals ect?

yep!

davidmiles wrote:So brand new master cylinders come complete with piston,pushrod, boot,seals ect?

Not surprisingly, in my opinion, well worth the money. I've spent quite a bit of dosh on my restoration and roughly an extra £140 to fit new cylinders, pipes and master cylinder made sense to me.

I took a known good second hand unit when I did the trav (i.e it was new approx 5 years ago, and had been sat unused for 3, but nicely wrapped up) whacked a new seal set in it and its been fine for the last year...

mission completed on the modern car, now I can concentrate my time on my pickup again.
Mind you I would never have had the confidence to even try re newing the discs and pads on my Nissan If it hadn't been for the experience Ive gained on my restoration project.
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