Morris Minor Owners Club

Does it matter what type you have now ? ( Unless of course you keep the original). Once the top housing has been removed from the engine block the housing for the spin on filter simply fits where the original went. The studs may need to be shorter, for the new housing. However it’s what you feel comfortable doing. My vote goes for the spin on, easier to replace the filter and less chance of leaks.

Wes wrote: ↑Tue Jul 21, 2026 12:35 pm

philthehill wrote: ↑Tue Jul 21, 2026 9:17 am Personally I would go for a spin on filter every time.
If you do - use one of the classic Mini type not a add on to the existing filter. Try and get one with the pipe attached otherwise you may have to re-profile the Minor pipe to fit which is not always easy. All strain must be removed from the pipe as it may lead to the breaking off of the filter head.
Here is one with the pipe:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/236950709584 ... R8y4jbzwZw

NOt the ESM one then?
https://www.morrisminorspares.com/engin ... er-p830101

As Phil said, the ESM one is minus the connecting pipe and it may not survive the transfer from one housing to the other.
The spin on/off is so much easier than trying to assemble all those loose items at arms reach....

Having now watched the video(s) It would be enlightening for you to give your insights into why you might not fit a screw on filter.
I have fitted the classic Mini, the 1275cc Midget/Sprite, MG Metro and the ESM type screw on filters to several engines and have not experienced any problems with any of them.
The ESM screw on filter head in your link is more than suitable for the task of mounting a screw on filter.
The type of screw on filter head I would not use is the type that uses the original Minor filter head with a conversion adapter inserted & fitted between the filter head and screw on filter. See MOSS Europe Pt No: GFK1001. It uses the original Minor filter head & seal and I have come across instances of the seal leaking because of the style/type of adaptor.
You cannot go wrong with the classic Mini screw on filter head as per my link above.
Below is my preferred screw on filter head - 1275cc MG Metro. It is strong enough to carry screw on filter and/or a oil intercooler (MG Metro) without failing.

svenedin wrote: ↑Tue Jul 21, 2026 2:46 pm As far as I can see, you have most of it in your picture.

Should there be an o ring in this item or a rubber washer between it and the base of the canister? how else will it seal?

philthehill wrote: ↑Tue Jul 21, 2026 6:10 pm Having now watched the video(s) It would be enlightening for you to give your insights into why you might not fit a screw on filter.

Scared i might shear a stud off or cross thread something due to the space restrictions

Wes wrote: ↑Wed Jul 22, 2026 7:12 am

svenedin wrote: ↑Tue Jul 21, 2026 2:46 pm As far as I can see, you have most of it in your picture.

Should there be an o ring in this item or a rubber washer between it and the base of the canister? how else will it seal?

Yes an o-ring. See the diagram Berni posted.


Stephen

[/quote]
Yes an o-ring. See the diagram Berni posted.
[/quote]

Got it thanks

Wes
Be bold - you can do these things without difficulty if you put your mind to it.
Phil

How have we got from Wes asking about a part on his oil filter to advising him to do a spin-on conversion which isn't what he wants? Plenty of times we've had posts on this forum where somebody has cracked the oil pipe. You also lose the blocked oil filter warning if originally fitted.

There's nothing wrong with the original oil filter. It's just a bit messier to change. You very soon get the hang of where the parts go especially not to throw away the pressure plate that is stuck to the old cartridge.

Stephen

We got there because Wes posted "should I cut my losses and go for a spin on oil filter" and that he "might as well go spin on conversion for £25" which to me is asking for advice on spin on filters which he got.
It is up to Wes what he does about the filter/parts but he has been given information to enable him to make a considered choice.
The blocked oil filter light was found to be near useless and that is why BMC/BL deleted it. It has not been missed.
Phil

philthehill wrote: ↑Wed Jul 22, 2026 10:12 am We got there because Wes posted "should I cut my losses and go for a spin on oil filter" and that he "might as well go spin on conversion for £25" which to me is asking for advice on spin on filters which he got.
It is up to Wes what he does about the filter/parts but he has been given information to enable him to make a considered choice.
The blocked oil filter light was found to be near useless and that is why BMC/BL deleted it. It has not been missed.
Phil

Ok fair enough. There is a third way. Leave the original filter head in place, avoid disturbing it or the oil pipe and fit an adapter for a spin-on filter. The most expensive option unfortunately.

https://www.scparts.co.uk/en/oil-filter-adaptor/7443/


Stephen

svenedin wrote: ↑Wed Jul 22, 2026 8:27 am How have we got from Wes asking about a part on his oil filter to advising him to do a spin-on conversion which isn't what he wants? Plenty of times we've had posts on this forum where somebody has cracked the oil pipe. You also lose the blocked oil filter warning if originally fitted.

There's nothing wrong with the original oil filter. It's just a bit messier to change. You very soon get the hang of where the parts go especially not to throw away the pressure plate that is stuck to the old cartridge.

Stephen

All started with a quick oil filter change and spirelled

As I'd like to be driving over the summer i think I'll stick with the standard arrangement now that i Know what i need to do thanks to the info below. I might consider the conversion later when weather means i cant take car out.

Thanks again for the info.

Whilst the spin-on filter is, undoubtedly, more convenient, the old way is hardly difficult, especially once you have done it a few times. And that is why I have never bothered fitting a spin-on type......I simply can't be bothered

myoldjalopy wrote: ↑Wed Jul 22, 2026 10:29 am Whilst the spin-on filter is, undoubtedly, more convenient, the old way is hardly difficult, especially once you have done it a few times. And that is why I have never bothered fitting a spin-on type......I simply can't be bothered

neither can I !

Stephen

One last probably stupid question. I'm assuming its impossible to partially fill the canister with new oil prior to reassembly without spilling most of it? So should turn the engine over for a reasonable amount of time before firing it properly?

With the original oil filter element canister you cannot partially fill the canister and then fit it. The oil will just drain out whilst fitting.
What you can do is use the oil pump filling aperture (if fitted) which is located on the N.S of the engine by the block drain tap. Or fill the pump through the union of the oil transfer pipe located on the block.
The bonus of the spin on filter is that you can fill the oil filter before fitting and so long as you keep the filter upright the oil will not spill of leak out. Some canister oil filters have no back flow seals which once filled the oil will not spill out.
I always remove the spark plugs after filling the oil filter as it allows the engine to turn over without loading on the crank journals. Turn the engine over on the starter till you get oil pressure plus 30 seconds

Stephen
I did mention the adapter option in one of my posts above but my experience of the adapter is not positive and therefore I would not use the adapter.
Phil

I have always partially filled the canister before fitting. I always put the filter in the housing with all the other bits and then fill with oil about two thirds. The oil does not leak out as I make sure the bottom bolt and seal is pressed up tight whilst fitting the canister. It always works for me........

I'm working on the floor with arms out stretched so not sure i can hold a partially filled canister steady enough. But will see how i get on,

Anyway this job really just keeps giving. Came to replace the o-ring/gasket in the housing to discover there isn't/wasn't one !!! also the filter has come with 2 new ones? Its the purolator type arrangement so do i use the thin one or the thicker one? both are the same depth ~3mm

myoldjalopy wrote: ↑Wed Jul 22, 2026 12:23 pm I have always partially filled the canister before fitting. I always put the filter in the housing with all the other bits and then fill with oil about two thirds. The oil does not leak out as I make sure the bottom bolt and seal is pressed up tight whilst fitting the canister. It always works for me........

I do the same. To make things easier I jack the front of the car up and support on axle stands. Then I can also do the greasing and adjust the brakes. If I’m just doing an oil change sometimes I use ramps but I’m always scared I might drive off the end of them by accident.

Stephen

Wes wrote: ↑Wed Jul 22, 2026 12:57 pm Came to replace the o-ring/gasket in the housing to discover there isn't/wasn't one !!!

Make sure you're right about that, I've had one squashed in so well it appeared not to be there, it was only with a screwdriver I found out I was wrong and it was just rock solid and well wedged down the gap.

Does this mean you're re-using your original parts like the spring etc. ?