Morris Minor Owners Club

Right, I have made a decision.
Going to strip it all down again- 3rd time!!
Will put sealant on all the studs where they fit into the block.
Now this leads me back to picking a good make of head gasket, any suggestions? Currently have a Victor Reinz (Dana) fitted. I do have a BGA gasket too - any good?

Suppose looking on the bright side, it stops me getting bored!

Crossed post so deleted as you're stripping it.

Up to you. I wouldn't strip it all down again for one stud. Yes you can take one stud out.

The Minispares own copper gasket is excellent.

https://www.minispares.com/gug702506hg- ... minispares

Stephen

So I will remove the offending stud. How about using PTFE tape on the thread, just conscious I won’t be able to clean the thread in the block with the head still on.
Guess it’s worth a try.

You can get extra long taps suitable for cleaning the stud threads in the block.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/366366828407 ... BM-Mr8nNtn
or
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/377251319652 ... R5T7jZ3bZw
Grease the tap to catch any crud.

It was drying the thread in the block that I was concerned about. I did clear this thread with a tap when it was all stripped down - that’s probably why it’s leaking. All the other dirty threads are fine. I have never used sealant on these studs in the past!
Does using PTFE tape seem like a reasonable idea?

I would not use PTFE tape.
I would use Loctite Loc and seal.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235974601069 ... R-yZgp7bZw

Why not use PTFE tape?

Spritely wrote: ↑Thu Jun 18, 2026 9:44 am Why not use PTFE tape?

I wouldn't feel very happy about using PTFE tape when I can't see what's happening at that end of the thread. PTFE tape is great for leaking drain plugs on gearbox, differential etc. The advantage of a liquid sealant is that it flows into the gaps to create the seal. This what I have used several years ago and no leaks since. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Permatex-59214 ... UEOP0?th=1. Also works very well on domestic plumbing compression fittings.

Stephen

I have ordered some Permatex.

I applied Permatex to all studs that break through to the water chamber - the 5 on the spark plug side. Did one at a time. Waited 24 hours then ran engine up to temperature (got to 170 deg). All seems ok.
Will let it cool off then re torque tomorrow.
Mind you I read somewhere that modern composite type gaskets don’t require a re torque but will do it anyway.

Just double checked and using a composite gasket on an A-Series engine, it is recommended to re torque after getting up to temperature and then cooling off.

Sorry to bother you all again.
Did my re torque after letting engine cool down.
Next plan was to do it again after 200 miles or so.
However heard that it isn’t necessary to do this with a composite gasket - is that correct?
Or if it is done then must not back off the nuts, just torque them?

I’m sure people will have different opinions but whenever I’ve used composite gaskets I have re torqued after a good heat cycle. Say 10 minutes drive or so. I have always re torqued by backing off 90 degrees then re tighten to torque.

I have re torqued after 200 miles on occasion but often forget without it being a problem.