Morris Minor Owners Club

Something wrong with it, I suspect. I just tried mine, although not on the car, I can hold screwdriver tip in finger and thumb and rotate the black section and it clicks and turns. If the force I'm holding the screwdriver with was enough to open the valve against the valve spring, I would be astonished.
Is it a new one or secondhand?

You are using the out black collar?

It is an old one. Bought second hand with a 1/2 inch socket on it.

It is working properly, but the spring on the clicker defeats the valve spring. I might try squirting some oil up it , but I don't think it will make any difference.

I just squirted some plus gas up the top knob.

It has eased up a bit but the action is still too strong.

Clamp the screwdriver tip and give a good twist with some more wd and push up and down to work it in.
Hope you get it working properly

Thanks Bill. Will do.

It may be that I have weak valve springs. In the original kit I think there was a fork of metal that you could put somewhere to stop the valve spring from compressing. I do not posess this part.

stuffedpike20
You are correct in that some SPQR tappet adjuster kits had the weak spring anti compression plate (called the 'Spring Tensioner in the instructions) - the multi hole plate with 'U' end - see photo in link below for a photo of the plate.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273805558264 ... b006014fd3
The weak spring plate was inserted through the coils of the spring and rested on top of the guide so stopping the spring compressing.
Only light pressure should be applied to the knurled screwdriver grip.
The SPQR kit I bought did not have the weak spring plate included. Neither did it have the correct 'A' Series tappet adjusting socket which had to be purchased separately.

Like this Phil, it's actually a hard plastic.

Bill
That is the plate.
Looking through the instructions I came across the original bill of sale dated 17th March 1972 at a cost of £3.99.
It came in its original Draper branded box with Part Number 3455 on it. Size 1/2" AF socket SPQR Tappet Tool. The correct 7/16" AF socket for early tappets had to be purchased separately.
As regards the plate as I have never had the plate I honestly would not know if it was metal or plastic but I suspect that the original plate was metal. The quality of manufacture went down over the years so it comes as no surprise to learn that the plate is now plastic.
I have to say that if I needed to use the plate it would be time to replace the valve springs.
You also have the palm knob which was deleted on later kits so I would suggest that you have obtained the super duper version which included not only the palm knob but also had all four sockets all nicely packaged in a wooden box.
Phil

A bit more than that now Phil
I went for the one in my pic because it was complete and in a wooden box.
Someone even laminated one of the data sheets.
Bit of a fan of old tools.

Bill
I agree the cost of good quality tools (even old specialised tools) has gone through the roof.
I also cannot resist old tools especially those I used way back when doing my apprenticeship in the BMC main dealership.
I may never use them but it is comforting to know I have them just in case.
Phil

Yes many of the tool you remember from apprenticeship days.
Many of the vehicles in the 300+ fleet where I worked were BMC.

Mine is original SPQR but not sure of age. The instructions include using the spring tensioner just put between coils, I assume to make spring stronger. See below.

Interesting stuff.
I will not have to adjust the tappets again for a while unless I have to have the head off for some reason.

I will give the tool another go then.

stuffedpike20 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 15, 2025 6:03 am Interesting stuff.
I will not have to adjust the tappets again for a while unless I have to have the head off for some reason.

I will give the tool another go then.

Tappet clearance is a regular maintenance/service operation, not limited to when the head may be removed.

He knows that, he said for a while, not just if the head is removed.

Sadly, I do very few miles in my minor now, partly, as stated on another thread, because of the behaviour of other drivers.

Going back to the tool...I read somewhere that before clicking the right number of adjustment clicks, the tool should be so tight that you cannot rotate the push rod. I could certainly rotate my push rod.
What should be a simple procedure, with a simple tool is turning out complicated!

I have also had this issue of the valve spring becoming compressed before the tool starts to click. I was using a modern Gunson Clickadjust. Since then I found an older version of the same tool and it works perfectly. Make sure you are not pushing down on the tool when turning the black handle other than light pressure to keep the tool in place.

Stephen

"I have also had this issue of the valve spring becoming compressed before the tool starts to click. I was using a modern Gunson Clickadjust."
Ditto. Never had any success, I don't use it, for that reason, and rely on the good old feeler gauge method.

Mervin wrote: ↑Fri Aug 15, 2025 10:36 am "I have also had this issue of the valve spring becoming compressed before the tool starts to click. I was using a modern Gunson Clickadjust."
Ditto. Never had any success, I don't use it, for that reason, and rely on the good old feeler gauge method.

I have always used feeler gauges without any issues....

svenedin wrote: ↑Fri Aug 15, 2025 10:24 am I have also had this issue of the valve spring becoming compressed before the tool starts to click. I was using a modern Gunson Clickadjust. Since then I found an older version of the same tool and it works perfectly. Make sure you are not pushing down on the tool when turning the black handle other than light pressure to keep the tool in place.

Stephen

I think it's a case of modern copies, badge engineering (ala MG)
Poor quality cheaply made and sold as original specification. Nasty plastic bubble packaging instead of proper wooden or metal case to protect your purchase.
As discussed at length on the forum this also applies to parts, brake switch etc.
I suppose that's why Phil and I are fans of old original tool, they were built to a quality not a price. I have tools in my box that are 50 year plus old and still function faultlessly. Back in 70's when I made my living with those tools you bought the best, even if it meant paying the tool guy weekly. The cost of some cheap junk failing was more expensive than buying good tools.
Of course its different if you just use them occasionally for hobby repairs, then the cost vs quality is different. We now live in a throw away society of cheap imported goods were replacement is cheaper than repair.
Rant over