Morris Minor Owners Club

[quote="bigginger"] all I can think is you're doing something wrong.
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Definitely no. Worked fine until only recently. Thanks Andrew, that's the first possibility I thought of..

No, not the most helpful of comments, but it is a sad truth that most times the computer appears to be doing something wrong, it's the operator who's at fault. Double check the tags when they aappear in the 'post reply' pane. It is, f'rinstance. very easy to accidentally delete one of the ]s if you're editing what you've quoted (for length, naturally), or omit a / if you're doing things manually. If that is all correct, then Ray is right - the internet goblins are ganging up on you. Or you're using Linux. Look out on ebay for my book on teaching egg sucking to your granny, BTW...

VERY few and far between ! And yes damper goes straight on 1098 (and 948) engines. Smoothes out the engine - stops the timing chain getting a hammering - and stops the crank breaking so easily ! BMC fitted the damper as standard on the East/West 1098 engine in the 1100 range - but penny pinched on the poor old Minor engines.

thanks bmcecosse, anyone got a spare crank pulley from a 1275??? think ill check ebay too..

Ah - so it's a 1098 then. Just be aware that they have VERY short life at anything over 6000 rpm - which will just be about where your 276 is coming 'on song' !

As far as the quoting goes, make sure you have the "BBCode is On" statement in the options (lower left corner of page) when replying to a message.

TeHoro wrote:As far as the quoting goes, make sure you have the "BBCode is On" statement in the options (lower left corner of page) when replying to a message.

Well done in New Zealand! Simple when you know how Actually the options did advise "BBCode is ON" but the "Disable BBCode" box below the reply window was ticked.

I did ask my granny and she thought it might be caused by using Firefox instead of IE - wrong again, stick to eggs.

'sgood to hear a solution - *but*... I was kind of right, just the computer doing what the human had told it to...
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To get back to the subject matter - you don't want anything soft/flexible like a bracket between the head of the bolts and the cap ! It will allow the tension in the bolt to disappear as it collapses. If I remember correctly - there need to be hardened steel packers on the cap - between the steel strap and the bolt heads - and these are arranged to leave a small 'pinch' gap of 'I think' (going back 40 years here !) about 5 thou. This gap is of course closed up when the bolts (and I used Allen Cap bolts - X quality) are tightened down. You need to check of course that the crank still spins easily by hand and is not being 'pinched' in any way !!

maybe to tap a small thread into the top of the strap, directly in line with where the previous thread was, so the bracket would need to bent at a slightly different angle, I think someone suggested this already. I dont think this would weaken the strap too much?