Morris Minor Owners Club

The sump pan bolts are 1/4" UNF.

If the threads are gone (worn away) you will either need to go up to a suitable size of thread which can be cut - or better still ‘helicoil’ the holes back to standard thread pitch and diameter. Hopefully it is only the set screws which have been damaged and need replacing.

I ordered a tap set UNF 14-28 and I am confident that I can fix it.

Is UNF the most used thread type on MM?

As regards the engine - the Morris 1000 uses UNF threads.
Most body fixings are BSF.
There is a list of threads and fastenings at the head of the mechanical section.

Thank you for the hint.

Then it resembles the MG TD. That engine has mostly metric nuts and bolts with finer threads.

The bearings have been delivered.

Compare the reality with the manual, there is a difference. On the WSM, the notches on the two halves of the bearing are diagonally opposite. In reality, I found it offset next to each other on the lower side. Rotating the bottom half to go up would not end up in the diagonal position.

I suspect it is a feature of the 1098 engine as everything appears to be original?

I'm still waiting for the tool.

In the meantime I tried the pan seal, got I from Angloparts- please have a look.

Will all protruding seal be proper compressed while turning bolt into?

The cork seal has to protrude at either end by the amount set out in the workshop manual i.e. 3.2 mm.. If the cork seal protrudes any more then there is the likelihood that the seal will fold over as described in my post above and allow oil to escape.
The cork seal must be well greased and if needed to be cut - it must be cut square. do not bevel the end because it looks better. The end of the cork seal has to fit square up against the underside of the sump side gasket.

Today I did the first ride (60mls) after the repair. The rattle is gone and the oil pressure is much better. A drop of oil after parking seems normal. Thanks for advice.