Morris Minor Owners Club

oliver90owner wrote: ↑Mon Mar 14, 2022 6:35 pm That plug you removed is awful. The engine was either running rich for some time or the engine is burning oil (most likely the latter, or both).

I'm not sure why (obviously ) but the others were black but not cruddy if that makes sense. Burning oil sounds expensive

simmitc wrote: ↑Mon Mar 14, 2022 6:44 pm In that last video, it sounds as though the battery is getting a bit tired and the engine is cranking slower - hardly surprising if you've been trying to start for a couple of days; but it is not going to help matters. Charge the battery, clean the plugs. Leave the plugs out and spin the engine for a few seconds. Replace plugs. NB, make sure that you get the plug leads in the correct order. Now pull the choke half way out and try starting. Good luck, it will go as long as everything is set correctly.

Why spin the engine a couple of times?

To expel any last drops of fuel/moisture from the cylinders and ensure that everything is clean and ready to go.

simmitc wrote: ↑Mon Mar 14, 2022 8:18 pm To expel any last drops of fuel/moisture from the cylinders and ensure that everything is clean and ready to go.

Thanks!

Whether you clean and replace the plugs, or buy new ones, make sure you check the gaps before fitting (25 thou). Assuming you now know how to use the choke properly, I would check the colour of the plugs again after a few hundred miles - the plug in your picture does appear to be oily as well as sooty.....

Here's a typical manufacturer's fault Chart for Plug problems.

geoberni wrote: ↑Mon Mar 14, 2022 8:45 pm Here's a typical manufacturer's fault Chart for Plug problems.
NGK-2013-Complete-NC_Page_207_1.jpg

They look a mixture of carbon and under-tightened to me!

radioactiveman wrote: ↑Mon Mar 14, 2022 8:52 pm
They look a mixture of carbon and under-tightened to me!

A product called Gunson Colortune (daft American spelling I know!) it might be worth picking up. The 14mm one. It’ll make it easier for you to ensure the correct fuel mixture.

Frost Auto Restoration currently have them in stock: https://www.frost.co.uk/gunson-colourt ... ester-kit/

Fully charge the battery, fit a new set of spark plugs (N9Y or equivalent) and if you have not altered the mixture the car should start.
You only need to pull out the choke enough to be able to get a cloths peg between the knob and the dash panel.
If you pull out the choke fully and leave it there you have a very rich mixture which will wash the oil off the cylinder walls and lead to rapid wear.
The choke should be pushed in as soon as possible.

Spark plugs and a battery charger are on the way! I will report back

Further to Phil's explanation on how to do it, pull out the choke as he says (in very cold conditions, all the way out is usually best) turn and hold the ignition key till it fires up and as soon as it's running increase the revs slightly by gently pressing the accelerator pedal while gradually pushing the choke control back in until it's still about a quarter inch out (the fast idle setting), easing it out again slightly if the engine shows signs of stalling. Drive off, pushing the choke all the way back in once you're properly under way.

Hi guys, so my spark plugs have arrived. I'll try and get them in later.

Just another quick question... does everyone use a torque wrench or is it hand tight and then a 1/4 of a turn with a socket? And should I clean up the area/holes first? I don't want to let any crap go in there

If you use a torque wrench the plugs should be tightened to 7 -10 lbf ft.
If tightened by hand - tighten until nipped and then 1/16 turn.
Refit the old plugs and clean all around the plug seats before fitting the new plugs.
I always put a smear of copper slip on the plug threads before fitting.

philthehill wrote: ↑Thu Mar 17, 2022 10:21 am If you use a torque wrench the plugs should be tightened to 7 -10 lbf ft.
If tightened by hand - tighten until nipped and then 1/16 turn.
Refit the old plugs and clean all around the plug seats before fitting the new plugs.
I always put a smear of copper slip on the plug threads before fitting.

Thank you! I'm guessing too loose is better than too tight in this application so I'll air on the side of caution. I don't have any copper grease, I've only got silicone and WD40 so I will just hope for the best on that front!

Good luck. Just do what Phil says tightening by hand tool and they’ll be absolutely fine.

Fingers crossed for you this evening…hope that cures your problem.

MorrisJohn wrote: ↑Thu Mar 17, 2022 4:31 pm Good luck. Just do what Phil says tightening by hand tool and they’ll be absolutely fine.

Fingers crossed for you this evening…hope that cures your problem.

Keep everything crossed!

Okay, slightly odd question.

I can feel a bit of 'gritty' resistance when screwing in one of the plugs (the one that was fouled up). I don't want to force it for fear of damaging anything.

Am I just being too timid or should I get a cloth in there to clean the threads?

Clean the threads with a cloth. Never try and force any threads - better to be cautious than be heavy handed.
If you can obtain a plug tap - smear it with grease and screw into the plug hole. You will be surprised how much crud the grease picks up. The grease retains the crud on the tap so not allowing it o fall into the cylinder.
Here is a suitable tap:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321900245737 ... Sw~bFWKPoW
Well worth the money and it is better to wait for the tool than have the spark plug thread pick up.

And so, like a phoenix, he has risen!!

https://youtu.be/N1t0SJ7CJnM
https://youtu.be/xTyz-s_XLPg

(Apologies for the darkness and acoustics of my garage, but you get the point! )

philthehill wrote: ↑Thu Mar 17, 2022 5:36 pm Clean the threads with a cloth. Never try and force any threads - better to be cautious than be heavy handed.
If you can obtain a plug tap - smear it with grease and screw into the plug hole. You will be surprised how much crud the grease picks up. The grease retains the crud on the tap so not allowing it o fall into the cylinder.
Here is a suitable tap:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321900245737 ... Sw~bFWKPoW
Well worth the money and it is better to wait for the tool than have the spark plug thread pick up.

I gave everything a good clean and with a bit of gentle persuasion, they went in. I've never heard of a plug tap before but it sounds like a good thing to have in my arsenal.

radioactiveman wrote: ↑Thu Mar 17, 2022 7:14 pm And so, like a phoenix, he has risen!!

Excellent, well done

So today I took him out for a run, I put the choke in quite quickly. Everything seemed to be fine, however when I got back things were quite lumpy again (with no choke) at idle. Pulling a little bit of a choke seemed to stop that (a fingers width), as did manually revving things a bit. Any ideas?

I guess renewing all of the ignition service bits might be an idea?

Also, I noticed that it's losing oil from the back of the sump. There was a patch on the garage floor when I returned. That seems a bit worrisome, especially the comments people said about burning oil.

I can't say I noticed a high amount of smoke today (be it blue or otherwise), but maybe it's subtler than I'm imagining.

They could be two unrelated problems of course.

Thanks people

It seems that you need to set the fuel/air mixture. See wksp manual for process.
Oil leaking from the rear of the sump is common and is not related to engine wear. Just replace the sump gaskets and end corks.
If oil is leaking from the rear engine return scroll (there is no oil seal at the rear of the crankshaft) - oil will show itself from the jiggle pin hole in the bottom of the bell housing - is there any oil dripping from the jiggle pin hole?