Morris Minor Owners Club

Yes, I would expect more than 13v at the battery at fast tick-over. Just to check the battery, try cranking the engine with the voltmeter attached to the (fully charged) battery. As it cranks, the reading should not drop below 10v on a fully charged battery - if it does, the battery is indeed suspect.
But your results suggest a charge from the dynamo (14v and brightened bulbs at brisk tick-over) so I do suspect the regulator in the control box. Be careful not to blow any bulbs when testing the dynamo disconnected from the control box as the voltage, then being 'unregulated' can rise very high under such circumstances!

Oh yes, and don't forget that your starting handle is really useful if there isn't enough juice to turn the engine over on the key. The starter motor takes a lot of current and using the handle bypasses that draw on the current, leaving what juice is left to spark the plugs - you providing the energy to turn the engine over . The starting handle has got my car going on more than one occasion in the past with flat battery issues......

You are right. The starting handle is a very useful thing indeed. As is a hill - but only if you're at the top of it
One thing I learned early on in my driving career and running old cars was to park at the top of a hill if possible!

Try doing that with an unladen Perkins-engined mk.1 Transit in -5c temps... little success but mega-flat-spots on the rear tyres

Ah now, Perkins diesels... back in the '70's I worked on drilling rigs powered by those. In the winter the crews would light a fire under the engines (old oil ,rags and any old combustible rubbish) and let things warm up for a bit before firing up. We lost a couple of rigs that way.

Ordered new control box, so will let you know how it goes.

Yes, be interesting to hear the outcome of this!

You want to set Amp meter to your car, it will show you .how to battery charging.

Usually when we buy a new battery , we want to full charge it, befor set to the Dynamo system car . 12.5 - 13 v readings full change battery (remember best way check gravity of battery )

About your problem - there are two ways do like this - 1st Short wire connection 2 . Incorrect voltage control box settings.

Control box settings
If the Cut out - cut off the charging voltage befor full charge battery . Battery will drain - ( correct , cut off voltage 12.7v )

1st you set a Amp meter to your car (it is very important to dynamo car )

Then run - If very shortly the Amp meter come'' 0'' or at the start the Amp meter not readings close to 30 Amp when the engine speed - 100% Sure it is incorrect Settings.

Adjust the regulator adjusting screw Clockwise small amount 1/4 ( 4= one turn ) see the pic.

Best of luck

Hi folks, got new control box and fitted it, all seams good!
Multimeter goes up to 14 + and a test bulb gets brighter with revs.
Thanks for the help.
Next is to overhaul the wiper mechanism to make sure they're not a drain on things!

Coolio! Let's hope this control box lasts longer than 'a few years'!

I doubt it, its amazing how long the Lucas ones lasted. I think most "modern" things are built to expire thus giving work, seams to be a different philosophy back in the day!

surfergirl wrote:I doubt it, its amazing how long the Lucas ones lasted. I think most "modern" things are built to expire thus giving work, seams to be a different philosophy back in the day!

The main reason parts do not last is due to being made from alternative materials, as an example, bakalite was made from carbolic acid (phenol) and formaldehyde and is referred to as aphenolic resin. Bakelite was the first thermosetting plastic.
The chemicals involved in this are nasty and no doubt back in the good old days unwittingly killed a few workers.

Yes one wouldn't want to go back to that sort of thing, but it isn't the Bakelite thats at fault with the control box. Most things it would seem are harmful to health, modern plastics are not nice! I would of thought the control box could have been reconditioned, thus not having to use any bakerlite or plastics or the need to make a new one.
Does the club have a supply of new old stock or chaps who rewind dynos and wot not?

We know these 'copy' control boxes are poor quality. I and others have commented on this previously. Whilst nothing to do with bakelite, it is possible the regulator points are of some inferior metal. Good old 'proper job' Lucas control boxes went on for decades without trouble. The modern copies only seem to last 'a few years'
The club 'Sparesman' may have some NOS Lucas control boxes but, unless they had been stored in very dry conditions, they might have deteriorated. No harm in asking, I suppose, and trying one - if he has such a thing.

Read on here years ago that the reason modern Morris parts are such poor quality is that we are all so tight that we won't pay for quality. Just saying...

Not saying that the Bakelite is the problem, the point I am trying to make is that for various reasons the parts we buy are inferior quality because of the change in the parts that make up the item. Tungsten for the points is mined but to keep costs down manufacturers make the component parts from cheaper materials.
Steel is a good example, quality steel is expensive but most today is recycled from different grades making the end product inferior.

The Chinese are known for bad steel and that's where most of the parts are made

Well I spoke too soon! Couple of days after fitting the new control box the red charge light stays on all the time. Cleaned the points again and checked all the connections no luck.
So looks like that's back to ESM on Monday!!

I think your only real option is to convert to an alternator.......

Argh! Really! Just paid n fitted new dyno, battery and control box!!
On the plus side, bought this jelly mould yesterday and it has had an alternator fitted!