Morris Minor Owners Club

+1 for Epoxy.

Etch isn't necessarily waterproof, nor is stonechip.

Epoxy should be spread around more as I used red oxide. Still that should last ages.

I've got a molasses test bucket going on at the moment

Rustbuster do a excellent range of surface treatments, http://www.rust.co.uk
I have used their epoxy mastic on the interior of my car floor and then with a coat of black Hammerite about 4 years ago and it dries to a hard surface which does not chip easily.
I would not hesitate to reccommend there products including the rust prevention products.

Reading this thread I am tempted to try citric acid as it seems to be effective, reasonably safe to handle and cheap for removing surface rust from a lowlight grille. I think the grille bars are a little delicate for severe blasting or power brushing.

The only snag I see is that my only container big enough to soak it is my bath (plastic). Will citric acid ruin it?

It won't harm the plastic but might have a go at the plated metal plug hole

My 1st post although I've been a MMOC member for about 20 years.

To relieve the boredom during these exceptional times, my son and I have the front of our Morris 1000 Traveler off at the moment and have stripped all the parts down to metal with twisted wire brushes etc. in preparation to repaint the same.

There are a few areas that we cannot get to such as behind the front grill. So we have decided to have ago at removing all the remaining rust with citric acid. We have also stripped down 4 wheels and will also do these at the same time.

It will also clean out the wheeley bin, although we will not be able to use warm water for reasons of economy.

Just wanted to know the quantity of citric acid required for about 150litres of water!

I use 6 table spoons per ltr of water.

In the end I used 100mg of citric acid crystals (food additive E330) per litre of water, i.e 2kg in 200 litres in a wheelie bin. After stripping off all the old paint and rust I've dipped each panel and wheel for 3 to 4 days, taking them out twice a day to scrub them to help the process. All have come up a treat and epoxy primer has now been applied. If the wind is not too strong today the top colour coats will be applied.

As TrickyDicky above states, epoxy primer from Rust.co.uk. Most primers are porous, epoxy isn't. It goes off by chemical reaction rather than evaporation (well a bit of both technically) so even thick coats in cold weather will go hard properly. It's expensive but good. And it's a bit of an art working out how much you'll need because once you've mixed it the clock starts ticking.

For rust killing I use their convertor which is a phosphoric acid type stuff but with something that seals the metal too - more epoxy I think.

Before all that, these type of discs in an angle grinder to remove loose paint and rust

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07QMJYTCT? ... th=1&psc=1

As wire brushes just polish the rust.

At an older age, I've finally started to figure out that spending the money de-rusting properly is cheaper than doing it twice.