Morris Minor Owners Club

That's true but nothing like aiming high! ------and for the sake of a couple of bob---------

I always aim high cos if not it is not worth doing. I have never used a toque wrench and not had a head gasket blow and all my countersunk holes have chatter marks on them and are hidden once the screw is in

I had no idea countersinks were so complicated

Counter sinks come in all shapes and sizes - angles - single flute - multi flute - with and without pilot.
Torque wrenches have not always been available for use - for example:- when tightening cylinder head nuts on the MM a socket spanner (Pt No: 18G 330) was used and which was designed to give the recommended maximum torque to the cylinder head stud nuts with normal hand pressure.
Spanners were originally manufactured to a length that with normal hand pressure would apply the required torque.

amgrave wrote:I always aim high cos if not it is not worth doing. I have never used a toque wrench and not had a head gasket blow and all my countersunk holes have chatter marks on them and are hidden once the screw is in

When I was much younger and had no money as an apprentice at £3 15/- (£3.75) a week I also got by as best I could but now I am much older (do not know about wiser) I try to do the job as best I can. Tools to do the job are also much easier to source these days especially off the web.
I always keep in the back of my mind - if someone examines my work are they going to think this is a load of cr-ap or this man knew what he is/was doing - I prefer the latter.
Phil

After posting about not using a torque wrench I might have to bite the bullet and buy one now though as I want to have a go at rebuilding a diff using a 3.7 CWP and it will be needed for the pinion nut. Shame as I have got away with it for this long. No other special tools though, I will be using a feeler gauge, sliding calliper and going by how it feels and general engineering experience (and probably a bit of luck). Wish me luck

Do not break the habit of a lifetime just use a socket and tommy bar. Hanging 140lbs on the tommy at 12" from the centre of the pinion nut should see you through
Do not forget the engineers blue to see that the teeth are set right.
Phil

Ha ha, that means I might have to buy a set of scales to make sure the weight is 140lbs

rebuilding a diff using a 3.7 CWP

Do you mean that you are going to fit a 3.7 CWP to a different diff assembly? If so, which series is the 3.7 CWP and which series is the diff assembly cage that you propose to use? The cwp's are not interchangeable between early and late series cages.

This is from the BMC Special Tuning manual:
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Presumably you have a copy of the BMC Workshop Manual and the tools to be able to measure the width of the bearings, the dimension over the fitted bearings and backlash all to within 0.001" reliably? Oh, and a bearing puller to get the diff cage bearings off to fit the correct thickness shims?

Diff carriers of the second series are easier to set up for backlash than the first series, as they have information about the 'as machined' offsets stamped into the casting. This means that the cage bearings should only need to be removed once each side, and they are a real pig to get off.

The second series uses a non-reusable 'crush' spacer on the input shaft and does need the 140 lbf. ft. torque to be about right. The first series uses selectable spacers, plus some trial and error to get the bearing preload right, but as it is tightened up against a solid spacer, ******* tight is often enough!

Assuming that you have something that will tighten to 140 lbf. ft., the usual problem is restraining the diff housing so that you can actually tighten the nut up, and then undo it to make spacer changes/fit the oil seal etc.

Back to the original topic for closure...

Countersinking went OK on the Clarke pillar drill converter, £30 odd from MachineMart. It's not very well made, there is slack in some of the joints so you need to insert your own washers etc. At least countersinking is self-centering!

I ended up with 3 different kinds of 90degree countersink, by far the best was the cheap pack of 3 from Silverline, which I am assuming was single flute as it only had the one cutting edge? The expensive triple flute one chattered, and I didn't even try the multifluted Clarke ones that looked more suitable for MDF. The single flute one left a nice clean sink, which left plenty of clearance when assembled.

Thanks all. I now have 9 various metal countersinks if anyone is in need!

Cheers,

Edd

Well done -I found a little hand held one (Rolson) while clearing up today - And remember now using it on one front plate - worked just fine.

Edd
If these are the one you purchased they are indeed single flute.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3pc-HSS-Singl ... Swy4hUTUdU