Morris Minor Owners Club

I'll give it a go tomorrow thanks

Problem solved!! Mike Perry was right about each lamp having a separate earth wire, I looked at a wiring diagram in my Haynes manual (When all else fails look at the Instructions)Doh!! And discovered the earth wire (Black) to the R/H Indicator had been plugged into the same female socket as the lights! Have taken the Bullet off the end of the wire, and put on a round connector, connected it to the car body result!!
Many thanks to all who've offered some great advice, it's been invaluable! I nearly gave up, but was determined to get to the root of the problem. This is an amazing Forum!

One last thing, I need to replace the rear L/H Spring hanger, I intend to take the petrol tank out, is it necessary to take the L/H rear wing off?
Thanks

Richard

Not unless you suspect the rust has spread to the inner wing in that area.

There is a hole which I've patched for now in the bottom left hand corner of the boot that needs a panel welding in

Richard
So long as you can't see any rust in the vertical inner wing , then " no " you don't need to remove the wing.
If there are any repairs on the vertical edge then certainly removing the wing will give you much more access.

Be warned though , removing the wing will usually present you with more rust to attend to. Rust eradication is about
options... repair minor rust now or leave til later when it will be " more rust ". The iceberg principle.

Go absolutely mad on taking reference measurements before cutting out the old.( Search the Forum for previous posts on the topic ).
There was an example of a member who got a garage ( professionals ?? ) to do the work and who found on it's return that he couldn't get his prop shaft to fit because they had welded the repair panels in the wrong position. You have been warned.
Usual safety advice get the vehicle safely on axle stands. Doing my mate's moggie we strapped up the bumper supports to
a sturdy heavy duty wooden pallet. We also put a scaffold plank right underneath the car on two more axle stands as well. Getting the rear up high helps with access for positioning the panel and subsequent welding.
If you are doing two repair panels on the left hand side , do one at a time , so that you have a fixed reference point to work from. If you remove both ..you're in deep trouble. In addition to measurements a simple wooden batten with holes drilled on the centre line of the pins through the shackles ( fixed points ) is another reassurance that you've positioned it right before tack
welding and checking again .
Bob

Hi Bob
Thanks for your detailed response much appreciated. This is all new territory for me so any information is going to be helpful when I tackle the Job.
Richard

Richard
Oops I forgot to mention . Wire brush the nuts /fixings generally , well in advance and douse with Plus Gas dismantling fluid a few times. On the day if all else fails , reach for the angle grinder with a cutting disc.If the fixings look beyond their sell by date order replacements beforehand.
When reassembling put plenty of Coppa ease on.
Bob

Hi Bob

Thanks again will do

Richard

Richard
If you have any further requests on the Bodywork theme can I suggest that you post the question on the Bodywork section
of the forum , effectively starting a new topic
People with bodywork experience wouldn't necessarily look under the " Electrical " section and you might miss out on
another person's valuable input.
Whatever you do don't stop the questions coming !
Bob

Hi Bob
Good point, thanks