Morris Minor Owners Club

Bottom pic looks correct to me.

Number 2, if something looks right, it usually is!

I have done one recently, it's the bottom photo definitely.

Obviously the second - but unless it promoted a leak has absolutely no bearing on the brake problems you describe.

bmcecosse wrote:Obviously the second - but unless it promoted a leak has absolutely me bearing on the brake problems you describe.

Indeed! Looks like I will need to try another m/c. I see Lockheed, Unipart and Borg and Beck all make them. I would always default to Lockheed but in view of continuing problems I may just try a Borg and Beck this time.

Simply test the master cylinder by plugging the outlets with bleed nipples... I'm sure it will be fine.

bmcecosse wrote:Simply test the master cylinder by plugging the outlets with bleed nipples... I'm sure it will be fine.

Yes will do - as the m/c is now out of the car (took only 15 mins this time) it's an ideal excuse to use the kitchen table I have a very understanding wife.

Minors with standard brakes can be notoriously difficult to bleed.

Try bleeding the system again, this time Jack the rear axle up and support it when you
bleed the rear two corners, then set the rear on the ground, Jack up and support the
front (axle stands) when you bleed the front brakes. This will stop any bubbles
going back in the direction of the master cylinder between strokes. Only five pushes
of the pedal then top up.

If you jack the front up and support on axle stands then jack the back up under the diff and support the back, you can bleed the system quickly.
I have just changed the fluid with no problems. Using two people is by far the most reliable method, whilst the assistant is pressing and releasing the brake pedal at your command you can see exactly what is happening. Pump all the dirty fluid out of the NSR followed by the bubbles until the master cylinder is empty, then top up the master cylinder and pump the bubbles out until there are no bubbles and clear fluid. Top up the master cylinder then move on to the OSR brake drum etc. Maybe I was lucky but once around the car was sufficient to replace the fluid. Incidentally what fluid are you using?

Never had the slightest problem with bleeding - and certainly no fancy 'jacking up' involved. Seriously - all you need is a jam jar and a bit of tubing!

Yep. No problems bleeding any of my minors. As bmc says. 2 people, tube and jar. Can't stand these people (that i have watched) on other minors, pumping slow feeble pumps when bleeding. Start off by pumping good hard pumps. Hold pressure on. Open bleeder. Again good hard quick pumps. Hold pedal floor / pressure on. Tighten up bleeder. Top up cylinder with fluid. Same again on another corner. Simple

Yes almost as annoying as people who put the word Simples at the end of a sentence! If something is straightforward, the word is SImple

It wasn't really that funny. I don't know why you have put the s and the i as capital letters. It's not even at the start of a sentence.

Probable for the same reason you've spelt feeble wrong!

It's a bit of fun lads - lighten up !

Dear oh dear - anyway thanks guys for your suggestions. I have bled the system numerous times with assistance and following everyone's advice on here but, despite no remaining air bubbles and everything adjusted up tight ever time, I have consistently had same problem of long pedal travel then firming up and I've never had any problems bleeding brakes on other cars. But I'll get to the bottom of the problem eventually.

Firmest I have got the pedal was when I disconnected front system, replacing union with a blank, so only rear brakes operated.

So as you said earlier,if the above is correct it can't be a M/C problem? The problem must lie in the front circuit, is there any way of just having one wheel connected and try and eliminate each corner for any fault?
You haven't got any squashed pipes?

I once had the same problem and found that it was wear on the cams,fully adjusted and then one hard pedal,then next press ....long stroke until pressed, again, the adjustment was automatically coming off as the pressure was put onto the cam,put some used good cams in ,solved the problem......worth a check........maybe by adjusting up tight then hard press on brake and then check each wheel to see if the adjustment has been lost

Thanks Kennatt I'll check the cams too