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Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 1:53 pm
by James k
I've now broken the chisel by repeatedly hitting the nut

I don't think it's ever going to come off.
Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 3:10 pm
by bmcecosse
Sure you are moving it the right way ? Anticlockwise - and shouldn't be tight.....
Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 3:23 pm
by James k
Anti-clockwise when looking at the front of the engine. It doesn't even seem to be about to budge and I've given it as much force as I've got.
Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 3:26 pm
by MrIan
Going back to the inlet valve stem seals, wasn't or are there seals available that fitted over the guide completely and were held in place by the base of the valve spring ?
Or is it just my memory playing up and they were for another engine?
Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 3:59 pm
by martin418
ford cvh engines and latter vauxhall 16v units used the washer and stem seal built in just to name a couple
Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 4:21 pm
by les
I'm probably not going to be popular with some folk or indeed your good self but being your first rebuild you really ought to be using the correct tools, you are starting off on the wrong foot by improvising and its certainly not going to stand you in good stead in the future, you have now caused more damage and probably can't get a socket on the nut now.
Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 4:24 pm
by bmcecosse
Porridge for breakfast !

Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 5:19 pm
by martin418
you might have to resort to drilling through the face of the nut and splitting it , at worst case you might damage the pulley but it's a cheaper option than the camshaft ,
Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 5:43 pm
by panky
A ring spanner then a few sharp whacks with a hammer, usually works for me

Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 7:53 pm
by bmcecosse
Indeed or a good flat spanner if tight fit. Unfortunately a 'socket' as often advised tends to slip off due to the thin nut and the depth of the socket. A 'rattle gun' with socket is ideal.... Just to check - you have fully released the lock tab - often knocked up (!) on more than one side.... Usually it comes undone with one sharp tap - and without causing any damage that can't be dressed out with a file. To keep battering at it is obviously not good. It IS going to need a new chain... Perhaps indeed drill the nut - or if you can apply some local heat - cooks gas gun is ideal ! Just don't let the cook catch you....
Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 2:50 pm
by James k
I've just had a go at it for another hour with no success. The nut hasn't been damaged too much to fit a socket on it, it's only got a couple of chisel marks on it. The lock nut is definitely down on all sides. The adjustable spanner has a pretty good fit on it, it doesn't turn and round the nut off, it just won't turn. I can't imagine that it would be any different with the proper socket or spanner. I tried to drill the nut off as suggested but my drill wouldn't even make a mark in the nut

It looks like I'm going to have to track down a rattle gun.
Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 4:29 pm
by aupickup
pretty certaain i have some heavy duty sockets that fit
Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 4:34 pm
by MrIan
You are trying to shock it with a tight fitting spanner ? I doubt you'll just turn it without shocking it. I know some nuts n bolts on various engines can be a right pig to move. Certain sockets are ok as long as they grip enough of the nut not just the corners.
Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 4:35 pm
by aupickup
plus i have a bigger hammer

Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 5:12 pm
by MrIan
aupickup wrote:plus i have a bigger hammer


Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 6:06 pm
by philthehill
If you knock the cam shaft retaining nut hard in trying to shock release the nut there is a good chance that you will damage the front white metal bearing as the bearing material is quite soft.
The correct size spanner (6 sided socket preferred) must be used and as previously mentioned jam the crankshaft web (the one nearest the front of the engine) with a piece of hard wood.
Has the nut previously been fitted cross threaded? If has been it could be the reason it will not come off.
You may have to resort to cutting the camshaft retaining nut with an angle grinder or hacksaw to release. Just be careful of the threads on the camshaft.
Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 12:00 am
by grumpydad
Hi
bring the block round and I will try and sort you
Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 6:51 pm
by James k
Thanks, I'll try and get the block round to you this week.
Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 1:53 pm
by James k
Hi,
I've been busy with other stuff for the last few weeks so I haven't been able to work on the engine. I finally got the nut removed today though! It required a blow torch and rattle gun but it came off in the end. I may be able to do some more work on it in the next few days but on Thursday I'm going to Germany for two weeks (driving a different car unfortunately). I'll get back on the job after that

What is the best way to undo the bent up lock washers on the crank? I thought to just prise them back with a screwdriver and then bend them down with pliers but I was wondering if there was a good trick.
Thanks,
James
Re: My Engine Rebuild
Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 2:33 pm
by les
How can there be another way?
