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Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 5:15 pm
by bigginger
It is - as I say, I've been meaning to give it a go, but 'praps I won't now...
a
Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 5:21 pm
by shaunb
Kevin wrote:
I keep meanig to try the Ronseal stuff that goes on as a paste, and which you can remove in big chunks afterwards - I'll keep you posted!
If thats the stuff you can also use on house doors as well its not quite all its cracked up to be.
I'll second that, you'll need LOADS of the Ronseal stuff, it's not as good as it says on the box. Must admit I never used it on cellulose though.

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 6:23 pm
by custommartin
Hi,
I would recommend using 'Automotive Nitromors', available from most Motor factors, as there is less chance of distorting panels this way.
Yes, it is messy but it does do the job!
At work we normally do all the repair work (welding etc.) first.
Then have the panels bead blasted, on the edges ONLY, and then strip the rest with Nitromors before painting as soon as possible.
Doing it this way prevents the bare metal from going rusty while the repair work is done.
BTW
If you scratch the paint first, the stripper will work better.
AND
Don't forget that paints such as Hammerite contain silicons.
These are a Car Sprayers nightmare and can spoil a top paint job.
I hope that helps.
Good luck.
Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 6:27 pm
by bigginger
Certainly helps me - cheers Martin.
a
Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 8:06 am
by Alec
Hello WP,
the most effective sander is an orbital sander and yes you get production paper as that is what they are designed for. A standard small palm sander is useful also, (I use both myself) as it gets in some of the more rounded and hollow areas. Forget your DIY domestic type sanders.
Alec
Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 8:27 am
by guydenning
i can remember nitromorsing entire sides of coaches prior to spraying in new livery. one particular treat of a weekend and it hadn't been thoroughly washed off. next day - paint on, blister blister blister, boss went bananas and we all had to work the sunday for booger all (or get the sack). that was only twenty years ago - 7am - 7pm, 6 days a week for £70 - bargain... what employment legislation eh?
Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 10:24 am
by newagetraveller
One problem with paint stripper is that it can evaporate before it has done it's job properly. Apply a layer of paint stripper to the paintwork and then carefully lay an old plastic bag over it. This should prevent any evaporation while the stripper is doing its work.
Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 7:29 pm
by wibble_puppy
Thank you all very much for all your tips - I am making careful notes!
I was reading an old edition of MM and this guy said that he had stripped the paint from his car using a 50/50 mixture of brake fluid and cellulose thinners. Anyone tried this? and does it work on 2Pac - cos I'm thinking maybe it would only work on cellulose?
juliet xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 7:51 pm
by bigginger
I've tried neat brake fluid. I reckon that while you wouldn't want to spill it on your car, it's not a brilliant stripper, more a 'damage badly-er'
a
Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:53 am
by rayofleamington
I've tried neat brake fluid. I reckon that while you wouldn't want to spill it on your car, it's not a brilliant stripper
Well - the couple of drips I managed to get on the kitchen door last week certainly worked as well as nitromorse

(I brought an old brake pipe into the house so I could measure it against the pile of new ones to see which was which)
Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2005 11:01 am
by bigginger
This was on household gloss over a good few MMs of cellulose/enamel on an old wheel, and only one coat of fluid - it may well work better on thinner paint, I've never left it for long enough when I've spilt some.
a
Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2005 11:11 am
by rayofleamington
yes - car paint should be a lot more resistant than household gloss.
I've used nitromors on Minors before and although it took a few coats and it's a nasty process (bad for skinn / lungs and gets on the floor, so you walk it everywhere...) it certainly did the job