Morris Minor Owners Club

I fitted an electronic 45d a few weeks ago and had the same problems. Although I'm still not completely happy with it (and can't investigate yet as I'm not in England), I got it running a lot better than when I first installed it. The adjustment is made by loosening the distributor clamp. That's the small nut on the side of the distributor. If you loosen that then you should be able to rotate it a full 360 degrees (with no leads connected of course!) The way I set the timing was via Roy's method. I turned the distributor to give the smoothest idle and then test drove it. Altering the timing didn't seem to have much effect on the flat but made a big difference on hills. After the test drive I advanced the timing slightly and took it on the same test drive again (with a few fairly steep hills). I kept doing this until the engine pinked on the hill and there was a loss of power. I then did the same thing but with retarding the timing. I found that there was a noticible drop in power when I had advanced it too much and a corresponding increase when I retarded it again. I left the timing set at that point.

As I said, I'm still not entirely happy with the power it's got and am doing a compression test as well as checking the air filter when I get back to England. Also, I used a lot of petrol when doing the test drives so be prepared for that!

Lift the idle speed slightly - and is the clutch pedal going down too far ? Yes - you loosen the clamp (just enough) to turn the dizzy.

Ive loosened the clamp which enables me to turn the distributor further.I can get the car to start and run with the distributor knock (under load) now gone, however the car is a chug chugging as though a spark plug or lead is faulty which I know is not the case. How can I recheck that the distributor is fitted correctly and the rotor arm was in the correct place for the timing please, bearing in mind Im a keen novice

Do you have the vacuum advance pipe connected to the carb? The advance in the distributor is electronic but you need to either seal the end at the carb or keep the pipe connected.

yes pipe is connected

The advance is not electronic! It is entirely mechanical with little bob weights... The vacuum advance must also be connected to get best response and fuel economy.

Im still having problems with running on my car ..as though the timing is out.
Can anybody please advise on how to go through checking and setting the timing again please.

Simply turn it back and forth till you have the best idle. It's always possible you have a faulty dizzy - although others report great success with it. Check the rotor arm springs back when you twist it...this indicates the mechanical advance is connected and working ok.

This is my last problem..then I can hopefully enjoy Morris again.....
Ive moved the distributor back until the knock under load disappears and the car is at its best running postition but it still chug chugs as though it is running on 3 cylinders.Ive removed each plug lead and the running drops as it should.
If the distriburor is 360 out then would the car run..just a thought unless there is anything else Im overlooking.

360 out is one complete turn ;)
It wouldn't run 180 out.

It will @ 180deg - just move the plug leads round two places........... It matters not a jot...

Ive checked and rechecked this morning the following
plugs and leads..all ok
coil...all ok
everything on distributor connected correctly
distributor set up in the best running position now
The car starts first time everytime but still chugs.
On top of this my fuel leaking from the top of the su carburettor breather hole has reappeared this after I thought it cured as it ran for ages yesterday with no problem.
Even with just the ignition on and engine not running, the fuel pump continually pumps (should this cut off?) until the fuel leak appears.
I wonder if my chugging is now actually related to the fuel problem and not the distributor?
Sorry for all the questions..Im pulling my hair out now.

The pump will stop when the pressure has got to a certain point but if the float valve is still passing then it will never get up to that pressure. It's either more crud stuck in the float valve, a damaged seat or there's a hole in the float and it's sunk. The last one is unlikely but it can happen

Not sure how I can say this without the post being deleted.
I bought an electronic conversion kit from 'a very popular electronic ignition supplier that many endorse on here' for a 45D distributor, that when fitted was misfiring all over, at any distributor position. Fitted an old set of 25D points to it, ran great. Put the electronic conversion back in, back to misfire.
Contacted supplier, who asked if the coil was a ballast type. It wasn't so sent back. He tested it, found that the unit was faulty, and sent a new one that thankfully worked great.
My point being that electronic kits, though rare, can be at fault. Also true that, in very rare circumstances as I've been party to, electronic ignition kits can fail by misfiring/loss of power, and not just stop working completely.
I suppose it's a bit like '"it's 'never' the coil". In very rare circumstances, it can be the electronic kits that cause misfiring.

Your chugging is probably due to over-rich mixture -caused by the high float level, constantly overflowing petrol into the engine. The pump should only give an occasional click when idling, and obviously no leakage which is an instant MOT fail... You sure you fitted the float valve correctly? And not perhaps adjusting the float level wrong way? Sort out the float level and I think your chugging will disappear when you adjust the idling mixture correctly. It's possible the dizzy is faulty - although there are very few reports of that. Some have damaged the electronics by connecting wrongly - usually when the car is +ve earth. But if your car is -ve earth, that won't be the case.

I suppose the only way to prove if the dizzy/electronic ignition is faulty is to go back to the original dizzy with points.

But please fix the carb first....

plan of action today