Morris Minor Owners Club

Okay, I'll take the plug out the cylinder and turn the engine again tomorrow. If it is the head gasket, isn't that quite a big job? I've heard that you have to skim the head :/ What do I need to take the head off for? To check the head gasket or to check for a cracked head? I take it I'll have to have a new gasket to hand and can't put the old one back in if it's okay.

Thanks for all the advice so far!

A big job is entirely subjective. To some including myself it's not a big job at all but to someone else it would be utterly beyond them. if you don't have the correct tools or aptitude then don't attempt it. I'm guessing that your not very mechanical as you asked about reusing a gasket. The answer to that is a definite no. i recommend you seek assistance with this if you are not sure of your skills.

Al

I'm usually pretty good at technical/mechanical/electronic stuff. I've got a degree in Physics and also have a lot of experience in maintaining and repairing analogue studio tape machines and building electronic audio equipment. I also restore sash windows I'm afraid I've only been working with car engines for a week though :/ so I'm not very familiar with head gaskets etc. So sorry about the stupid question If it can be done by one man with common tools then I'm completely up for it. I'm just worried about needing expensive/specialist machinery or it being an expert job that's easy to mess up :/ I'm probably worrying too much because I'm used to hearing 'head gasket' said in the same tone as 'cambelt' and usually in conversations about cars being scrapped! :/

Thanks again for all the help, this forum is great!

A Minor is as a simple as you can get, no cam belts to worry about You're questions aren't stupid at all, in fact I would be worried if you weren't asking any and just ploughing ahead It would be unusual to need the head skimming as it's made of cast iron, not the soft alloy used on modern engines, unless the engine has been run for a long time with a blown gasket it should be fine. The only tool you need that approaches 'specialist' would be a torque wrench to tighten the head bolts down when you put it back on.

And an AF socket set. Indeed for many many years I managed without access to a torque wrench - so it's not absolutely essential - you just pull using a normal ratchet or ring key till you feel the stud 'yield' slightly - which will be no problem to you!! Yes - you need a new gasket. Have you downloaded the Workshop Manual ?? As others will already know -I've done it at the roadside in a business suit... Hardest part was walking in to town to buy a gasket... 998 Mini gasket is what you need at your local 'autoparts' place. But we jump ahead - test for water coming out the cylinders in the morning - take ALL the plugs out.....just in case it's in more than one cylinder.

With your physics degree, working on a minor will be as difficult as putting a hat on your head.
The things you have heard probably relate to k series engines as lots of Young folks have had zr,s and the like. These very often fail and require lots of skill to put right, some even have 2 belts as they have variable valve timing as well as the double overhead cam. About the worst situation is a K series in an MGF or TF (I've done my share of these)
Anyway, back to the matter in hand, with your degree you know that water cannot be compressed hence the need to remove the plugs if there is water in the bores. If you don't and you try to start it, the best outcome will be that the starter hasn't got enough puff and will stall, potentially melting cable insulation and creating a fire risk but other risks include plugs shooting out damaging things, con rods bending and cranks have even been snapped by hydraulic locking an engine.

As mentioned, your questions are not stupid, the only stupid question when in doubt, is the one that doesn't get asked.

You say you have only had the car for 1 week,was it a private or garage buy Could make a vast difference in how you proceed.

I checked the cylinders again this morning and number 3 is still chucking out water. Not loads like it did yesterday but a small spray as it's turned over every time the piston moves up. None of the other cylinders are doing this so I assume the gasket has gone there. I ran it very briefly and it's not firing on 3 but is on the others.

I've downloaded the workshop manual. I'll probably get it printed soon if I can find somewhere cheap as it's a bit of a pain having to view it on a computer screen.

I bought the car privately. Although it's got these engine problems, I bought it since the chassis and the bodywork are sound and the chassis doesn't look like it's had any welding done to it. I figured that this was more important to have right than a perfect engine. I hope I'm not terribly wrong!

Anyway, I'm going to order a new gasket set now so I should be able to replace it soon (weather permitting).

Oh well just as we suspected. You are correct in saying go for a solid car as a priority, bodywork and chassis repairs can cost thousands and take months to do whereas a head gasket is an afternoons work and a few pounds for a gasket set (and a lot of satisfaction if you DIY)

Drain the water right away - and plan to change the oil and filter since there is bound to be water in the oil. Pull the head off asap - even if you haven't got the 'gasket set' . But as above - 998 Mini gasket at local autoparts place will be cheaper and faster...

I've just drained the water as you suggested bmc. I managed to drain it via the bottom hose by dousing it with hot water and then wriggling it off as per the advice I was given in another thread . I did get rather wet in the process! I ordered the gasket along with some other bits (air and oil filters, points etc.) so hopefully they'll be here tomorrow. Then, again weather permitting, I'll change the gasket either tomorrow or Friday.

It will be wise to carefully check the head (for cracks and for flatness) when off - and grind in the valves..... You don't tell us where you are - there may be other Minor owners nearby who may be willing to come round and lend a hand!

I'll make sure I give it a good check for cracks and flatness with a steel rule. What does grinding the valves involve?

I've updated my profile with my location - Hastings.

Long way from me I'm afraid. But I'm sure there are many owners in and around that area. Read all about grinding in the Manual! I would only print off pages as you NEED them - there's lots in the Manual that are not for your car and/or you will never (hopefully) need.

Also not sure what that petrol hose is, between the pump and the carb, not sure if its proper fuel hose but it looks orange in the light of your videos. LPG hose for the BBQ ?. That's not a good place for petrol to be spraying around. As ever unless you know the history of the car, or its been bought from one someone like us then go over it like a rash anyway, for your own safety.

Lovely little engine to take apart, I learned at 17 how to fix an A series albeit in a Marina.

Okay, I'll have a look over valve grinding. The petrol hose is indeed orange. Is this likely to be the wrong sort of hose?

Looks a bit doubtful.....

Here's another one for you - in Hastings too ! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1965-MORRIS-M ... 1390785870

James, not sure if you have one, but I have a spare Morris workshop manual, if you p.m. your address I will send it down there, you can buy me a pint when you are next in the North of England.