Morris Minor Owners Club

Don't think that would have helped much, as the prop needs to move rearwards not forward to give clearance, however as you have the engine out now, it's academic.

As you seem to have removed the diff, there will still be oil in the axle. Can't quite understand why you undid the diff....

Well I must admit that this whole car thing is very new to me... I was advised to undo the bolts at the end of the prop which I assumed must be those at the axle, but Im learning!

Anyway the engine is out cleaned and had all new gaskets, new rocker cover, manifold a cleaned sump, also repainted... Im now ridding the car of rust and patching up the floor, the inner wings front and back and the cross member in the engine bay needs welding, Ive been out with the hamerite again today in back of the car around the petrol tank and rear wings.

here are a few pics

Alan

[frame][/frame]

Do you have any Idea what this hole was used for???[frame][/frame]

LUR759H wrote:Well I must admit that this whole car thing is very new to me... I was advised to undo the bolts at the end of the prop which I assumed must be those at the axle, but Im learning! ...

Alan,
Those would have been the 4 bolts that hold the propshaft rear flange against the Diff - very difficult to get at (as I found out last year).
The flange must be marked up against the mating face on the Diff connection, as it can be refitted 180deg out (and if it was balanced, you'll get a load of vibration when you reassemble incorrectly) - I marked mine with chalk and when trying to reconnected the prop to the gearbox, I had to rotate a number of times and the prop's chalk mark got rubbed off on the plastic sheet I put under the rear axle!
I was lucky (or mine wasn't balanced) as no problems were noticed after refitting.
All the best for your project, George.

If you want to mark the prop-shaft flange and diff flange prior to removing the prop-shaft do it with a couple of centre pops adjacent to each other on the respective flanges. They do not rub off.
Turning the prop-shaft slightly allows the U/J angle to open up which gives more access for removing the bolts.

Phil I didnt disconnect the prop I just undid the bolts just incase i needed the movement when removing the engine... but when it comes to replacing the gasket I will need to remove... Thanks again for your helpfulness.

Alan

As regards the photo re hole - can you zoom out a bit please?

Hi GTT1951,

Thank you for your helpfulness yes I will do what Phil recommends and punch a mark on each side to make sure its all connected up right.

Its a fab project I love it, and it keeps me away from my wife and kids every man needs one!!

Kind regards

Alan

Phil the hole is between the centre of my back doors and the petrol or gas tank...

Why is the word centre always saying its not right in spelling?? i dont know maybe my keys are still US!!!

Alan

The locking bar for the rear doors locates in the hole..... The spell checker is American........

Alan's project is sounding more like Kenny Everitt's "Reg Prescott"
character with every post he makes....

The threaded hole (photo above) is where the spare wheel clamp bolt (ESM Pt No: WHL109) fits into. The clamp is either ESM Pt No: WHL108 or WHL108A.
You can just see the rear end of the fuel tank and one of the securing screws.

Hahahahah -I couldn't really make it out from the picture......

Thanks Phil,

Think you are right mate I did say between the back doors and fuel tank in about the center of my doors, so does the spare normally rest on the fuel tank?? to be fare this doesnt look thresded.

Not too sure what Pom is on about but thats ok, I guess the men in white coats will sort him...

Morning BMC I trust your ok...

Alan

At first I could not make out what it was and that is why I asked for the photo to be panned out but with a sudden flash of inspiration I realised what and where it was
The spare is normally stored between the boot luggage tray and the petrol tank. The clamp normally holds it all steady and in reality the tyre not the rim is against the tank so should not rub/wear the tank. The clamp must always be fitted to hold the wheel steady.
A snippet that may be of interest re-printed from the Hampshire Branch magazine :-[frame][/frame]

Thanks Phil for this info and for putting yourself out to research it, I know it takes your time and I appreciate it...
As I really appreciate all the advice from you guys, its slowly making a difference to my car and my bank account!


Thanks again
Alan

The photo about hub cap removal was originally posted on this forum by me many years ago. From there it has made it's way around several branch news letters (no problem with that). It's my hand in the photo, against one of my Travellers. I got the tip from an old Minor handbook, but can't now find which one it was. Glad that it's still proving useful.

LUR759H wrote:Thanks Phil,

Think you are right mate I did say between the back doors and fuel tank in about the center of my doors, so does the spare normally rest on the fuel tank?? to be fare this doesnt look thresded.

Not too sure what Pom is on about but thats ok, I guess the men in white coats will sort him...

Morning BMC I trust your ok...

Alan

Reg Prescott was the accident prone character who's DiY activities all
turned out to be disasterous!