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Re: help morris gold engine ID
Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 8:46 am
by craig12
why ? looks like a common conversion , I think someone is making them or the kit to alter
Re: help morris gold engine ID
Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 8:54 am
by Trickydicky
I don't think with an 803cc engine you need to worry about stopping quickly,

If the the brakes are well maintained you will have no problems. My 948cc stops perfectly well on the 7" brakes
Re: help morris gold engine ID
Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 9:45 am
by craig12
will try them soon I hope , the fact that the car is slow has no effect on the weight/mass traveling at say 30mph , its the stopping distance which im interested in when one of the idiots round here , Birmingham , pulls out of the local Mcshit with out looking whilst trying to balance his milk shake on the dash and light his joint at the same time , I ride a bike and this does happen
Re: help morris gold engine ID
Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 2:46 pm
by bmcecosse
Re: help morris gold engine ID
Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 6:03 pm
by panky
Not long after I got Ted the Traveller I had course to slam on when a car pulled out on me

The front brakes (drums) locked as I stamped on the pedal, on a dry road, so I reckon they are as good as you can get for standard Minor brakes, better brakes will just make the wheels lock up sooner. If you need more stopping power the first thing to do is get more rubber on the road by fitting wider wheels and tyres - I keep looking for a set off a van before I consider doing a braking system upgrade.
Re: help morris gold engine ID
Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 6:15 pm
by bmcecosse
Yes indeed - rubber/road contact is very much the limiting factor on MY Trav!
Re: help morris gold engine ID
Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 2:02 pm
by rayofleamington
, the car was never on the road (so I am told) since this engine was fitted but looks to have a leaking core plug
Is the core plug pushed out (if so - then likely to have stood with water & no antifreeze). Fitting a new one is often all you need to do.
If it's corroded through, then I'd be highly inclined to do a good flush of the block, as it's been rusting away in the waterjacket.
As for the gold paint - it was merely a (good) marketing exercise. It denoted a fully rebuilt "from factory" engine. However as it's been rebuilt, then there's less wear allowance left! People were (and still are) in awe of the "gold"ness, but there's no more power / durability etc..
Re: help morris gold engine ID
Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 2:32 pm
by craig12
there is a spare head also gold ? maybe he just bought a can for a diy shop , will take a better look when the engines out , also in the spares is a 4.55 dif , it still has the standard (square sump rear dif) is it worth changing , may do over winter
Re: help morris gold engine ID
Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2016 10:59 am
by alexandermclaren
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Re: help morris gold engine ID
Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2016 11:37 am
by bmcecosse
Nice trailer......
