Morris Minor Owners Club

I've just reset mine at 15thou during a routine service and can't say I have noticed any difference in noise or performance. As far as I can work out, it is only if the clearances are too small that there is a risk of mechanical damage (stems expand as engine gets hot, valves won't then seat properly and there is the chance that both the head of the valve and the valve seat will overheat). The engine (out of a scrapper) has done at least 100,000miles, the last 30000+ having been on unleaded with no additives. It pinks a bit so it will be interesting to see whether that is affected

kennatt wrote:mines set at 12 and been like that for the 25 years I've had it,engine must be wrecked by now I better look for a replacement

Mine too!

As above - don't panic! Just take it easy and all will be fine....

Thanks for all the replies The engine has been converted to unleaded, no idea what the valve clearances are currently so I'll print out this thread & let my mechanic decide. As for £22.99 for the Payen gasket - the cost of getting the old girl back on the road will run into the hundreds sadly so it doesn't sound excessive to me Hey ho, nobody said that being a mechanically-incompetent Moggie owner would be a cheap hobby

Hundreds ?? It's a two hour MAX job to swap a head gasket... I think you are being taken for a ride.....

I think he's including the conversion to unleaded in the cost, which considering the labour is a good idea to get done once the head's been off.

No it's already converted to unleaded but I'm getting the head skimmed too - some people may regard this as a waste of £s but I'm leaving nothing to chance here. Money well spent if I end up with a happy car that I can enjoy driving again

There is just as much chance of the block being scoured - as there is of the head... However - you seem set. Good luck!

Moss sell a copper head gasket for under a tenner.

bmcecosse wrote: There is just as much chance of the block being scoured - as there is of the head... However - you seem set. Good luck!

Just taking the advice of my mechanic, he won't do the job if it's not skimmed & I trust him - after being a mechanic for over 50 years he does have an enormous amount of first hand knowledge/experience and I value that massively. The principal thing I was after was a recommendation for a decent quality part and that's what I've got which I'm very grateful for. The other things mentioned here seem to be somewhat controversial so whatever I decide to do, somebody will disagree. That's the nature of forums. My friend tells me that virtually every thread on the guinea pig forum she goes on turns into world war 3 so I'm not especially surpised that my simple query has sparked quite a debate on here - thank goodness it's all very good natured and helpful though

There's no 'war' on here - we simply try to give you decent advice that saves you money and ensures a satisfactory repair. There is no need to skim the head unless it has been scoured - check first. And if it has been scoured then there is equal chance that the block will be scoured - so that too should be skimmed - not a simple task of course - but needs to be done if damaged or the gasket will just go again. You should at least go along and 'hold the spanners' while the garage are doing the job - so you can learn from the experience. If he's going to all that trouble it's to be hoped he will grind in the valves - and check if new valve guides are required while the head is in bits. Let us know how it all goes!

I can quite understand it on the guinea pig forum, when someone says 'you try it first' and gets the reply 'no, why don't you' can imagine it gets out of hand!

As far as I can tell, the average guinea pig forum member could start a fight in an empty room. As for me, I just want my car back. I'll speak to J (mechanic) - I'd be up for a bit of spanner monkeying - but as for what he does once he's got the thing in bits, I'll go with his professional judgement. The engine was a fully reconditioned unit fitted in 2000, it gets serviced regularly & I don't do loads of miles so I'd be optimistic that it's not in bad nick inside. The favoured explanation for the failure of this gasket is that it's a poor quality part which is why I wanted suggestions for a decent one. Could be wrong though. Thanks & I will indeed let you know how we get on

I recently replaced a Payen gasket with a copper one on Charlie, they Payen one was stuck to the head and took hours to scrape off properly.

This was only a precautionary replacement (at Roy's suggestion indeed) and the copper one seems to have sealed perfectly - no grease smearing etc...

As your mechanic is experienced, he (or she?) will look at the failed gasket and look at the block & head at the weak point to see if there's any obvious damage.
If there's distortion on the block surface, it's possible to see that using a ground flat bar. I've had the top of a block skimmed once, but on the A-series it's usually only done as a precaution and rarely really needed.

The same checking process can be done on the head but if it's getting skimmed anyway, then I wouldn't worry about it.