Morris Minor Owners Club

PaulTubby wrote:Hi, some had a chrome blank button and some had no hole in the aluminium dash plate atall... all depends, they was all different!

roughly 3,000 with central plug
over 16,000 without
excludes PO vans

Info taken from records

Has received reproduction rear wings at some stage.

Any chance of the chassis,cab,engine & ign key number please?

Nowt wrong with Austin's if they're left alone!

gammy126,
When you get a moment, can you post a pic of the centre dash speedo and switch area. Please

Ta

Steve

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Other details . No number on key its been cut as a spare and don't have original.
plate on cab passenger side door
type/spec A-AUC
Engine 10V
Chassis 3206 49 f
axles 2 GVW1.12 tons
Front 1st 0.55 -2nd
back 1st 0.66 -2nd

can not see a metal plate on engine with any numbers
on side of engine casting it says MOWOG then WO 23758 1 12A 497

if that makes scene to anyone let me know.

Would like to know how many of these are still on the road if anyone has any idea.

thanks for all you help so far

cheers
Alan

The vehicle details for WCS 374K are:
Date of Liability 01 10 2004
Date of First Registration 27 03 1972
Year of Manufacture 1972
Cylinder Capacity (cc) 1098cc
CO₂ Emissions Not Available
Fuel Type PETROL
Export Marker N
Vehicle Status Unlicensed
Vehicle Colour RED
Vehicle Type Approval Not Available

Well at least the number plate is still registered, though I would try and get it in your name asap if you have not already and sorned before you spend any money on it just to be on the safe side.

Once again Tasty. Sure I remember that passing me on the M53,near Stanlow a few years ago,along with a Morris J type.
Classic motoring !

gammy126 wrote:[frame][/frame]

Other details . No number on key its been cut as a spare and don't have original.
plate on cab passenger side door
type/spec A-AUC
Engine 10V
Chassis 3206 49 f
axles 2 GVW1.12 tons
Front 1st 0.55 -2nd
back 1st 0.66 -2nd

can not see a metal plate on engine with any numbers
on side of engine casting it says MOWOG then WO 23758 1 12A 497

if that makes scene to anyone let me know.

Would like to know how many of these are still on the road if anyone has any idea.

thanks for all you help so far

cheers
Alan

Brill Now I know. I WANT ONE!!

Well ive started wish me luck[frame][/frame]

Yep,good luck,don't think you'll need much luck though. Personally, I would have took it for a MOT test first. When I first saw your pick up,it looked very much all there body wise. I would do the mechanics,and keep it a rolling restoration,if I could.
But,good luck !

Good luck and keep us all posted

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More pics of the rear cab. trying to take the rear off . have undone and removed bolts at the rear below tail lights , bolts from cross member by shocks and around front cab were it connects to the rear. Inside the cab it looks as though the back has been welded on instead of bolted . need advice on what to do next . a diagram where the bolts are would be useful .

many thanks
Alan

The only bolts you may have missed are screwed into the bottom of the B posts, they screw into captive nuts so may go round and round! Also at these points I'm pretty sure the front of the rear is spot welded in a couple of places. Apart from that I reckon you've got all the fixings. It looks like you have a non standard panel below the cab back, which may have welds attaching it to the cab.

The cab lower rear panel has been welded on both sides with large plates to the pickup back panel.. they have been plated matt black the plates and these will need to be removed and by grinding the welds down. This is the panel where the handbrake cables go through.. above the handbrake cables is a join where the go together with nuts and bolts but the bolts are from the otherside ie outside above chassis...

Mr.G,
Do you have a diagram of how the LCV cab/bodies fit to each other and
the chassis when new?

Previous plating can be a blinkin' NIGHTMARE as it's often hidden - cannot
get the grinder on it, AND it has 30 coats of blackjack - plus the essential bit
of old welding wire that always jabs under your fingernail!

Les is probably right with the "roundabout" rusted captive nuts, every van
body i've taken off, these bolts have always needed hammering.

If you cannot take the tailgate off, make sure it's closed before removing the
body, take the light lenses/bulbs out too.

Are you sure the cab back is welded on, not just full of filler?

Hope all goes well!

Your right about the runabout bolts going to have to drag the pickup out the garage to jack it up and put on stands to enable me to get at the bolts with a chisel or grinder . lets pray for a dry Saturday lol .

can you get little metal grinder/ cutters for dremel style machines that will cut bolts ??? thinking out loud .

will those oscillating cutter tools with the flat blade things cut through bolts ???

cheers

Alan

Good hacksaw should do, the less cutting and whacking you do
at this stage, the better.
If you don't have side access,hold it with mole grips, cut down
the centre of the bolt - use a big screwdriver to split the bolt,
should be small enough to pass through the hole in the body.

Or, if you've a steady hand, grind the heads off!

Do you have a pr of tin-snips?

Someone always on here if you get stuck

You might find it easier to drill into the bolt head; work your way up in drill sizes, the head should eventually disappear. They are 5/16'' bolts. Your only problem will be stopping the bolts from revolving, maybe hold with some mole grips etc.

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know for most of you seeing an engine being taken out is an every day thing , but ive never done it before so im rather pleased with myself.

The rear of the cab has been welded to the cab back . struggling to get my grinder and cutting wheel in to the corners . Tried my vibrating cutter thing that I got from Aldi's the metal blade destroyed itself before making any impact .

also found more bolts around the can to undo .

happy days

cheers
Alan

Hi all need advice again sorry.
As you can see the rear of the cab has been welded instead of bolted together. Iv cut through the weld as far as my grindette will let me . Is there a tool that will help me get to and grind out the hard to reach areas of weld eg where the cab comes round to the door pilar. Also because of weld I carnt get to the bottom 2 captive setscrews that hold the rear if the cab to the main front shell.
Sorry not technical so hope this makes Sense.

Many thanks Alan

In the corners suggest you use the edge of the grinding disc to reduce the weld thickness down to original panel, then drill a series of small holes in a line followed by linking them together using a sharp cold chisel. Can't visualize the bolt query, sorry.

many thanks Les for the info . Ill take a pic of the bolts and post tomorrow .