Morris Minor Owners Club

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370966903572

I've done it now so hope it's ok!!

It's right enough - dunno about the ratio of course. Not inexpensive though! But as long as it includes the springs and dampers....not too bad I suppose - better still if you can collect it? Be sure to fit bump stops under the (new looking) U bolts. And a set of polyurethane bushes will last a lot longer than rubber!

Yes it was a bit pricey, the heated rear window will have to wait till next year!

if fitting a new axel leaves you knackered ,fitting the rear screen will leave you hairless

Yes - it's one of the WORST jobs on a Minor - and HIGH risk of cracking the screen. I wouldn't bother...

[quote="philthehill"]kennat
There is no diff cover on a Minor rear axle.
Of course not,was in scimitar mode,just about to strip the gtcs axle to do a bearing hard to multitask these days or so the nest of vipers keeps telling me

Well the Axle turned up from ebay today and I'm disapointed. I should have known better and collected in person with cash but still would have had a lengthy drive and no axle! Where the seller got 'it looks like it has been recently reconditioned' from i'll never know! The axle doesn't even turn!

I had a quick go at getting the brake drums off but they are stuck on and I don't want to damage it as I may send it back.

However, the springs do look to be in good nick and I can swap brakes etc from my old axle. So I'm wondering if I can get the drums off and the axle is ok then I can try and get a substantial refund from the seller.

What do you think about getting the drums off? Would I have to smash them off?
Are the axle workings prone to seizing up inside or is most likely to be just the brakes coroded on?

Don't panic!! It's just going to be stuck brakes.. The usual thing is to bang the drums hard - protect with a bit of timber - all the way round, and that should loosen them enough to ease them off. Avoid the raised lip ... Assuming you have the screws out...?

as above ,just released the brakes on a 64 RR 4.2 by using exactly the banging it hard with a thor plastic hammer method,both sides clicked

OK thanks guys. I did try tapping it but obviously not hard enough. I'll have a go with the block of wood tomorrow.

Wow that took some shifting! I don't know about a few hard hits though. I broke a few bits of wood and wrecked a wooden mallet! Then just went metal to metal and kept tapping and prising and tapping more. Got a crow bar in the studs and tried to turn it every once in a while. Eventually it gave way enough to release the adjuster and the rest was easy! Only took me 3 hours haha!

I have it ready to transfer the bits from my old axle but I think I will wire brush it and paint with smoothright first.

Wooden mallet? Ha - you need a 'wee heavy' club hammer for the job! Anyway - well done - but do inspect the final drive and the half shafts before fitting - and check the final drive ratio! Fill with nice new oil of course......

I have all the bits I need off the old axle now ready to transfer to the 'freshly painted' replacement. On the replacement by the way, I checked the halfshafts which look ok but haven't removed the final drive for inspection yet. I will do but I'm not sure what to look for!

Also I noticed that after leaving it stood on it's nose (pinion plate?) over night for painting and drying some oil leaked out. Does that mean that the seal has gone or is it just due to the unnatural position? How hard is it to replace?

The diff is stamped 9/38 which is correct I believe but how do I check that is what is in it?

38/9 = 4.222222222222 You don't NEED to take it out for inspection - it would just be for your own peace of mind. Seal - could be a bit leaky - probably easier to change it if necessary when it's in the car. Undoing the nut could be difficult.....or take the final drive out of the axle to do the job.

As Roy says the nut is very tight. If you decide to replace the seal mark the position of that nut relative to the pinion flange before you loosen it and count the number of turns. You need a 1 1/8" socket. The torque on that nut determines the pinion bearing pre-load. Most differentials are fitted with a crush spacer. When re-tightening stop at the mark. It can be done on the bench but is easier when on the axle.
Regards
Declan[frame][/frame]

Now that is what I call a vice!!!!

I decided to get the axle back on and sort the leak later if it appears.
I'm stuck on the spring mount. There are two rubbers with metal spacers in them but I can't see the point as they don't really fit top or bottom of the springs. The bolt holding the springs together pushes them out when on the bottom. And on the top it just doesn't look right at all? Will try and find a picture while I have a sandwich! Ok scrap that. Think I sussed it.

At the moment I'm working on the assumption they are spacers from the old springs which were 5 leaf. The new are 7 so don't have the spacers under the nut. So full steam ahead now. How tight should the shackles be. Just tight or is there a torque?

Just good and tight with a normal hand tool - make sure the bump stops are fitted on top - trapped under the U bolts. See the MOSS diagram http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewP ... exID=17092

http://www.auto-part.com/britCatalogs/m ... =1&page=12 or here

Better late than never - you should not tighten the spring shackles until the weight of the car is on the springs, otherwise the rubber or poly bushes won't be able to cope with the flexing properly. IF you tightened them with the car in the air, get back underneath, loosen the nuts a turn, bounce the back-end of the car up and down a couple of times and then nip the nuts up again. Simples!