Morris Minor Owners Club

Yup, I think that is right!

What have I started? I think I agree with Drivewasher's interpretation based on my photos, but will have a closer look at the real thing when I get back at the end of the week. Referee's decision final!

Mark

PS Did anyone notice the grinder damage to the T bar threads? Good job I've a spare set somewhere........

'The C washer is just a 'space filler' - it doesn't locate anything...and I still don't see why it is C rather than O. Can only have been an ease of assembly thing.

bmcecosse wrote:'The C washer is just a 'space filler' - it doesn't locate anything...and I still don't see why it is C rather than O. Can only have been an ease of assembly thing.

It locates the torsion bar longtitudanally, if no C washer was present the torsion bar could slide backwards as it's not secured in the front. Just as it does to remove it, although as you said it can be removed without removing the C washer but mine won't come that way the front eybolt and pin is too tight. I had to actually press the cup and pin assy into the suspension arm rear.

Yes -as I said - a 'space filler'... sets the longitudinal position of the T bar.

bmcecosse wrote:Yes -as I said - a 'space filler'... sets the longitudinal position of the T bar.

So it does locate it then! and it is needed! If it was an O then the torsion bar would have to be removed by prying it and the eyebolt at the front, tbar wouldnt slide away backwards.

I was looking at these washers today------no step and chamfered 'C' towards the torsion bar. As dw described.

They also locate the back of the reaction arm to reduce/remove the twist element of the offset arm being imposed on the spline. By supporting the rear of the arm on the o/d on the 'non-stepped' front washer, the spline sees a pure 90° load with no twisting or angular load to wear/damage the splines.

It could be replaced by another plain washer, but it must have the correct o/d to locate inside the end of the reaction arm, and provide the support.

A thought, are the 'C' washers hardened? I have no old/spare ones to look at.

The washer could be removed easily from the rear if the T bar needed to be 'slid' backwards for any reason. Can't see why - the eyebolt bushes are easily renewed as the T bar sits.

BM C

I know you favour hammering and chiselling things but for me the issue is disturbing the press fitted cup in the suspension arm and swivelling the eyebolt if the shaft is seized. In my opinion the cup is best left undisturbed where possible or else it may become loose in the suspension lower arm. Obviously if the front or rear arms are seized on to the T bar you will need to get one or other free on the splines, but if the rear is free there is no necessity to free the front arm from the splines in order to do the eyebolt bushes or to remove the T bar etc, however to answer your question you will need to be able to remove the C washer in order to move the T bar rearwards through the crossmember. As I have said previously there is more than one way to do this.

Taupe

The 'cup' isn't 'press fitted' in any special way - it just sits in the arm. I've never had the slightest issue with it! But each to their own on this one - I just like an easy life.....

Yours is probably very worn from undoing all the time in your rally days and no longer a press fit !!!

Taupe

I've been reading these posts and wondering whether I'm missing something, because if I need to renew the eye bolt bushes I dismantle the lower arms and relieve the tension on the torsion bar, then knock the cast lower arm rearward until the cup is free, pull the front of the torsion bar towards me,to clear the cup, which allows me to remove the bushes pin and subsequently the bushes. Is there any more to it than that? Why twist the eye bolt? Yes the cup is a good fit but not an interference fit, so doubt any wear would take place.

Yes - that will work fine les - unless at the same time you want to adjust camber angle by adding a washer or two behind the eyebolt. However sometimes the 'cup' is hard against the T bar - and twisting up/down may be easier than pulling (levering!) the T bar towards you. Have a good pry bar on hand before starting the job......

I'm not quite sure what logic had Mark post his original enquiry under 'Bodywork' but I'm awfully glad he did - I'm just about to polybush my mog and its given me food for thought. Thanks folks!

No logic whatsoever to this being in bodywork - straightforward pressing the button at the wrong time malfunction!

I have had another look at my one and only C washer, and definitely no step on the crossmember side. I did manage to release the reaction arms eventually, off the car and with judicious use of blowlamp and hammer. I really don't think this would have been possible in situ.

We must have exhausted this one now, so a final thanks for all the help and advice.

Mark