Morris Minor Owners Club

Glad it's in and better, maybe have a look again after a rest from it! I had the gearbox mounts with the sides swapped over and it fitted but it was very tight on the rear of the gearbox crossmember. Nicer when things can't go in the wrong way round.....

M25VAN wrote:Glad it's in and better, maybe have a look again after a rest from it! I had the gearbox mounts with the sides swapped over and it fitted but it was very tight on the rear of the gearbox crossmember. Nicer when things can't go in the wrong way round.....

Yes, the shaft is aligned much better than it was previously and the clutch pedal now depresses lightly as I believe it should. I've adjusted it up to give me about an inch and a quarter of travel on the pedal before it engages. Sounds a lot to me but it must be a tried and tested recommendation. The extremely difficult to operate clutch problem turned out to be the actuating mechanism and the clutch I took out didn't really need to be replaced. Not having a second pair of eyes and hands can work out expensive and time-consuming. Still, I have the 'superior' (according to Bull Motif) AP driven plate and pressure plate fitted now so I can console myself that it wasn't money wasted...
The relay shaft will stay like it is until after I get to the multitude of 'running repairs' that still need to be addressed on the car.

The clutch pedal free play on a 948 should be 3/4" (check after the transmission tunnel is in place, as this determines the 'UP' position).

The AP Clutch is far far better than the "cheaper" alternatives which work out much more expensive in terms of time ,money ,skin and blood pressure

yours

120/180

IslipMinor wrote:The clutch pedal free play on a 948 should be 3/4" (check after the transmission tunnel is in place, as this determines the 'UP' position).

I have a 1098 engine and I checked the free play while watching that the clutch pedal arm 'stop plate' was just below level with the transmission tunnel cover. I'll check it again when it's all bolted up and has the draught-excluder sponge fitted as well, when I get one that is. Thanks.

lambrettalad wrote:The AP Clutch is far far better than the "cheaper" alternatives which work out much more expensive in terms of time ,money ,skin and blood pressure

yours

120/180

Good. I only wish that I had split-pins available when re-fitting the clutch relay shaft linkages. You would think that the kit from Bull Motif would include them so that we don't have to make a trip to the car accessory shop. They supplied a copper coloured washer with the kit which I assume was to fit between the bush on the box-rail side and one of the levers but it was too small for that shaft end and too big for the other side so it didn't get used. I made do with thin nails as a stop-gap alternative to split-pins and punctured my hands front and back on them. One of the 'jabs' went right into a large vein on the back of my hand. Ouch... Now I'm inoculated against getting the creeping lurgy oil fever, heheh.