Re: 1954 2dr Saloon
Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 9:54 am
I would certainly recommend the complete inner wing panel.
Had a good look at mine and the main problem is the weight of the rear part of car will be on the back of the chassis rail with the inner wing completely removed. In my case the boot floor also needs repairs where it meets the upper chassis rail, but as far as I can tell the upper chassis rail is solid. The lower chassis rail incorporating the rear spring hanger is completely corroded the same as yours. The outside of the chassis rail is actually made up of the inner wing itself and is the first part to rot as it is thinner gauge steel. Probably more than 95% of minors have had a plate welded on there!
My plan is to complete the repairs to the sill boxing plate extension area and work backwards removing the inner wing and rear spring hanger panel assembly completely There is a bump stop strengthening bracket inside the upper chassis member that will probably also need to be repaired. I don't want to remove the rotten boot floor from the edge of the upper chassis rail at that stage because then I will lose too much reference, as the chassis rail and rear of the car will be totally disconnected. My plan is to dress that area enough that the spring hanger panel will rest in place (albeit a mm or so higher) and help to position the inner wing. After welding the inner wing in place there will be enough connection between the chassis rail and body to replace the section of rusted boot floor and fit the rear spring hanger. Needless to say the weight of the body will need supporting throughout.
Not sure if you follow that, but I will post pictures when I do it next week. Unfortunately I am tied up the weekend with MMOC business, a combined Lancs/Cumbria Mechanics day tomorrow and our Northern Area liaison meeting on Sunday.
You can measure the key dimensions before you start between front and rear spring mounts and cross member. If they are all correct then be careful to keep everything tight, if they have already altered (not uncommon) then you can set them right. But you will have to pay extra attention to inboard outboard and diagonal dimensions and relative height to ground (datum).
Had a good look at mine and the main problem is the weight of the rear part of car will be on the back of the chassis rail with the inner wing completely removed. In my case the boot floor also needs repairs where it meets the upper chassis rail, but as far as I can tell the upper chassis rail is solid. The lower chassis rail incorporating the rear spring hanger is completely corroded the same as yours. The outside of the chassis rail is actually made up of the inner wing itself and is the first part to rot as it is thinner gauge steel. Probably more than 95% of minors have had a plate welded on there!
My plan is to complete the repairs to the sill boxing plate extension area and work backwards removing the inner wing and rear spring hanger panel assembly completely There is a bump stop strengthening bracket inside the upper chassis member that will probably also need to be repaired. I don't want to remove the rotten boot floor from the edge of the upper chassis rail at that stage because then I will lose too much reference, as the chassis rail and rear of the car will be totally disconnected. My plan is to dress that area enough that the spring hanger panel will rest in place (albeit a mm or so higher) and help to position the inner wing. After welding the inner wing in place there will be enough connection between the chassis rail and body to replace the section of rusted boot floor and fit the rear spring hanger. Needless to say the weight of the body will need supporting throughout.
Not sure if you follow that, but I will post pictures when I do it next week. Unfortunately I am tied up the weekend with MMOC business, a combined Lancs/Cumbria Mechanics day tomorrow and our Northern Area liaison meeting on Sunday.
You can measure the key dimensions before you start between front and rear spring mounts and cross member. If they are all correct then be careful to keep everything tight, if they have already altered (not uncommon) then you can set them right. But you will have to pay extra attention to inboard outboard and diagonal dimensions and relative height to ground (datum).
