Morris Minor Owners Club

Many moderns are going back to a replaceable paper element...

For what reasons? Might be environmental to reduce steel consumption.

It is purely environmental as far as I know.

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Note item 10 and 24.

They soon 'threw away' the clip ....only present in early versions. But I can confirm my TR7 (which uses exactly the same can + filter) DOES have the clip present - and it was made in 1980!

Well, it was (and still is) a nice sunny dry day in Farnborough, so out came the boiler suit and under the car I went.
What a difference advise makes! When first assembling the filter can, I had placed the concave washer the wrong way up!
What is worse, I had taken everything apart and refitted - both times incorrectly.
It is now the right way round. Shame that the drawing, that Les (sorry, WelshRat) posted up, wasn't in any of the 3 manuals I had looked at, none of them showed the internal parts (apart from the filter).
Thanks BMC and everyone else - the cannister is in with the filter correctly fitted. Cranked the engine over with the plugs taken out. Replaced everything, fired it up and it is running quite sweetly (and I think quieter). I feel a lot happier now
Just need to take it out on a few longer runs and change the filter again - might as well do the again oil too.

I change oil and filter every 3k or yearly,probably over kill but gives mr peace of mind whist "bombing" down the motorway at 55mph.Smiling

The thing which worries me about servicing is the late A-Series engined Leyland cars for which they extended the oil and filter change intervals to 6,000 miles.

Of course, 3,000 miles is the maximum recommended now.

Since you ran flushing fluid through the engine - (not something I would ever recommend) I doubt there will be much muck in there. Give it a chance to circulate well and the new filter will be scooping anything up anyway. I wouldn't worry about another change until at least 1000 miles.

BMC, I've been using Wynn's Engine Flush for a number of years now, Petrol and Diesel Engines - (since 1999, Diesel engined cars only) until now, having returned to petrol with my Moggy.
We used to use a flushing oil, in the past - old engine oil was drained off and a gallon of this thinner "flushing" oil was put in, just to shift more of the muck. I did this on my earlier Minors, Ford Escort II, Morris Ital, Skoda Favorite and Opel Record.
If "Engine Flush" shouldn't be used in older A series engines, then I'll go back to using a cheap oil fill for an additional flush, before refilling with "Classic" Motor oil. Just got to sort out that "silt" in the engine block now (separate thread).

GTT Thats what I do ,I flush with cheap then fill with the slightly more expensive,never had a problem over the years

Just use Wilko 20W 50 and change it regularly - every 3000 miles is good. It's fine for the A series. Don't bother with 'flushing' - it's a con trick! The filter (when correctly installed) catches any thing bigger than 10 microns - and as it clogs - it gets better and better down to 5 microns. Of course - it musn't be allowed to clog completely, as then the bypass opens (that plate is pushed down on the spring) and there is no more filtering. Oil changes are more important in a Mini where there are gears grinding away in the sump! In a Minor - not quite so important...

I have a book from the the late 1940s published by the Petroleum Institute in America which recommends using oil flushing. I'll post a paragraph or two up here, makes for very interesting reading. (Well, some on my family reckon it's a grand bedtime book)

In the 803, at least, sludging is evident on the oil filler cap as mayonnaise. I once mistook this for a leaky head gasket - either way it needs cleaning out.

I've been under the impression that after dislodging muck etc, the possibility of some still remaining (now loose) after draining, could be worse than not trying to move it in the first place.

Mayo is down to engine not running hot enough (perhaps because of short runs) - and not being ventilated sufficiently. I agree - it should be removed and conditions changed so it doesn't appear in the first place !

When I worked in the BMC garage I used to find that Duckhams 20/50 produced lots of mayo in the rocker covers of 'A' Series engines. Change to Castrol 20/50 and the problem went away! So engines producing Mayo cannot always be considered to be running cool.
As regards keeping the inside of the petrol engine clean and sludge free the use of a detergent diesel engine lubricant may be considered. The detergent lifts any sludge etc and allows it to circulate it where it is caught by the filter. Having stripped several petrol engines which have used detergent diesel lubricant the wear was negligible even at high milage and the inside of the engine was sludge free. The filters were always filthy though!

Phil, on Monday you wrote: "FRAM Part No: PH5210"
Are you sure that's the correct Fram #? I tried searching it and nothing came up.
Maybe Fram UK has different #s than Fram North America?

Katy
Hi
I have just been and checked the number of the filter fitted to my Minor and it states on the filter casing FRAM 5210.
It does not have to be a FRAM filter but any make of filter so long as it is bigger than the small canister filter reccomended for the canister filter head conversion. Check that the canister filters central mounting thread and the seal seat is the same as your filter head before purchase. I am finding here in the UK that the mounting thread for canister filters all seem to be the same no matter what make of filter or size of filter (no doubt someone will tell me otherwise). When looking for a suitable filter I went to Halfords (UK Motor Factors/Motor accessories etc) and looked for the largest box which gave me a good indication of the size of the filter. It may seem obvious but If you get a really big filter make sure that it clears the chassis leg etc.
Phil

I will check my fram filter tomorrow