Morris Minor Owners Club

As I want to get the car to the Brooklands Museum Austin/Morris day this Sunday, I decided to attack the sludge/silt problem again. I drained the system (not the block plug however), refilled with water and added the Coolant Flush can (not drain cleaner strength). Ran the engine for the presciribed 10 mins (which wasn't enough to get the water circulating), so ran it some more. Undid the block drain plug and only a trickle of water emerged.
Drained the system again - definitely felt the chemical additive on my skin - silly me didn't put the "surgical examination" gloves back on
Then I unbolted the dynamo, took out the water pump (which had a slow leak at the lower gasket face), took out the rad (and back flushed it - loads of brown water came out) and then attacked the engine block with the Karcher that I borrowed from my youngest brother (in the late 70's/early 80's he had 2 Minor vans). Water everywhere, loads of brown crud came out of the opening the water pump fits on, but nothing from the cylinder drain hole
Tried the pressure washer directly into the drain hole - even more water everywhere. Totally soaked by now.
Got out the Lidl Endoscopic colour camera and poked it into the cylinder block through the water pump hole - very nice view of clear channels, then submerging int eh vicinity of cylinder #4 - the front of the car is parked slightly uphill on my drive.
Also tried to look (again) into the drain hole - camera doesn't go in very far because of the restricted width, but could see something that looked a bit like a pice of wire - has someone been here before me?
Made up a solution of Caustice soda, got a tube (that could fit tightly into the darin hole, fitted a funnel to the other end and poured some in - no reaction
Put some into the block at the water pump end - no bubbling.
Decided that the "block" must be very localised at the tight corner at the #4 cylinder end and the drain hole. Time to refit the pump, for now and circulate some plain water, drain and then refill with anitfreeze. Before doing this, decided to get a brand new water pump, form Camberley Autofactors, less than 1 mile down the road from me.
Got pump, some 20/50W oil (another thread where I had refileld with 30SAE Comma oil), plus some more Comma SAE 30 oil to use in the gearbox.
Got everthing back home. Applied "liquid gasket" to both sides of the water pump gasket supplied with the new pump. Fitted the pump and got the pypass tube up the bypass hode OK. Bolted on the dynamo and then started to fit the waterpump plulley and fan blade - disaster! The new pump (for 1098 engines) now sports M6 threads on the spidle flange. Camberley Auto factors only do a very small selection of odd nuts and bolts. Down the road to Halfords - they had a larger selection but I was not prepared to buy 2 bolts plus nuts per pack (4 bolts needed) where half the length of the bolt would need cutting off and the nuts are not required.
I'm going to have to go go to a specialist tool supplier (who also does screws and bolts) about 3 miles up the A30, or to a family owned Hardware store over in Fleet - I'd best ring round first. No best please, but at least I have dried out now.
Are all new pumps like this?

Lidl did an endoscopic camera? Drat I missed that one.

All my pumps are 1/4" UNF. Sounds like a load of work you have done.....hope it's worth it!! Liquid gasket is unnecessary and HORRIBLE !! Hope you used a 'straight' bypass hose - not the ghastly convoluted one...

Straight bypass hose. Cast Iron s/h pump was fitted with "dry" gasket, but this leaked. New pump with incorrect tapped hole sizes, fitted with the "replacement" for Blue Hylomar, as I didn't want to have to deal with any more leaks.
New pump has greater "depth" in the rotor - about twice the depth of the one I took off and the s/h cast iron one.
All the pumps rotors look as if they should be run in "reverse" to get the water scoup. Why are the scouped vanes the wrong way round?

Apologies for typo errors in my last post - was hurrying to get back to cooking my supper.

Make sure the pump can turn - the longer impeller is for the 1275 engine........

BMC, it turns. Just checked on the ESM website and their "long impellor" pump is for 1098 and 1275 engines. I've currently got a 1098 fitted and the pump was obtained from Camberley Autofactors, but with M6 pulley/fan mounting holes. Just been on the phone to ESM and their pumps have UNF threads on the flange. George.

The long pump doesn't always clear on 1098 engines..... But as long as yours turns -it will be fine.

Well, here it is fitted, with the new M6 hex-head bolts (cut down to correct length) that I had to drive 4 miles to get from a very traditional "iron-mongers" - one of the very last family run businesses.[frame][/frame]
Note the straight by-pass hose.
I've looked at the box, the pump came in, and it was manufactured/sourced by BGA and the application informations states - Make: Rover Group
Engine Code: MINI
Engine Size cc: 998
[BGA = The British Gaskets Group, http://www.bgautomotive.co.uk ]
WIth this pump fitted, I managed to go through the "rinse cycle" and then put back clean water (collected condensate water from my "fuzzy logic" tumble dryer) and the correct amount of "blue" methanol free anti-freeze.
Unfortunately, it seems that I have introduced and air-lock into the heater run. I've tried removing this by forcing water into one of the disconnected hoses, using the borrow Karcher, but failed to run the pressure washer before conencting it to the hose, so possibly putting more air in - loads of coolant was forced out of the top of the rad (having left the cap off for this excercise.
I now do get a "temperature gradient" across the rad and the bottom hose warms up.
I had to do this work in wet weather as I need to have the car in use for the Brooklands sunday event - as the car cannot fit in the garage, I'm having to work like this[frame][/frame]
I can smell my dinner burning - better get downstairs,
George.

Well done working on in these conditions. The pump looks most odd - but if for a 998 it should be ok. Is the impeller made of pressed steel? Make sure all the pulleys line up correctly.... I've never known an air lock in the heater - check for any kinks in the hoses to/from the heater . It should clear with a good run !

The old round heaters can be a bit more difficult and do sometimes get an air lock, it should clear once you have done a few miles so just check your water after about 10 or 15 minutes driving.

Hope to see you at Brooklands

David, which one will you be bringing?

I agree with David's comments on the heater air lock. It is vexing at first but it does indeed clear after a good time. And a working heater is essential in this weather.

George, flying over and hire car this time. Hope the weather will be as good as todays!

Georges traveller in the line up at Brooklands[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

David, good to have met you, yesterday and thanks for these pictures. I can confirm that the exit hose on the heater now runs warm to hot, so it looks like the airlock has shifted.

In answer to BMC's earlier question - the impellor is a cast alloy/alluminium one. The pulleys all did line up and the only "good" thing about having to source M6 hex-head bolts, was that I could use my metric ratchet ring spanner (M10 size) to refit the pulley/fan assembly[frame][/frame]
The pump that I had previously fitted (now taken off, but not discarded) is shown below (before being cleaned up)[frame][/frame]
and front view showing an 09 stamp[frame][/frame]
I did make it to Brooklands and back OK with heater working.
Regards, George.

It looks fine - and the bonus of a grease nipple !