Morris Minor Owners Club

.. And make sure you wash out the pint glass for next time you use it

I've actually replaced the fuel pump anyway, as I had to hit the old one pretty much every time I wanted to start. not sure what effect it's had as the front wheel is off whilst I'm trying to replace a seized TRE.

But I'll time the pint flow from the new one anyway. Don't worry, I don't smoke anyway .

right, it took 2:16 for a pint.

Should be fine. Let's say the engine does 20 mpg at 60 mph....... So in an hour it would use 24 pints -which your pump could comfortably provide.

I make that flow rate a bit marginal. 2:16 for a pint is around 26 pints per hour, and if you guess the maximum fuel consumption by taking 40 bhp as the maximum power and 0.8lb/hp-hour for the specific fuel consumption, that's 32 lb/hr or 4 gallons/hr. (See why I chose those figures for power and sfc? - saves getting the slide rule out).

ICBA to find the figure for an SU LP pump, but the Midget pump is rated at 7 gal/hr.

Probably not the OP's problem, but I'd still like to see a higher flowrate from a pump in good condition.

Kevin

Sounds marginal to me as well, I think the flow for a Minor is one pint per minute.

Even my Trav does better than 20 mpg - it's plenty -that's not the problem....

that might be because this is a temporary pump which came with the car (the young members told me was probably from a landy but would work), as the one that came fitted was effectively dead.

I had similar problems when i first got my Morris, it may sound stupid but have you tried checking your battery while the engine is running, mine turned out to be a combination of the timing (obviously you have sorted this) and the battery not having enough power to run the engine!

Best of luck,

Edward

power reduction due to Exhaust gases leaking past the manifold/exhaust union?
An easy fix if it is

Edward - I haven't checked it whilst running, but I only charged it recently and its a brand new battery :/

Moggie - how could I tell if it is that/how would i fix it?

I'd definitely check it while running, I had the exact same, I had a brand new battery and it was charged and regularly but the voltage regulator just wasn't working correctly causing it to just lose power

onion wrote:Edward - I haven't checked it whilst running, but I only charged it recently and its a brand new battery :/

Moggie - how could I tell if it is that/how would i fix it?

First off check the manifold nuts are tight and the exhaust pipe to manifold bracket bolts are tight.
The engine will be throaty under the bonnet, I know theres lots of noise there anyway but you may hear a throaty gurgle too.
The engine will be preferably cold as the exhaust manifold gets hot very quickly and you may suffer a spectacular burn otherwise, do take care here.
Before starting the engine, Give the manifold nuts holding said manifold to the engine a gentle tighten, they may be loose,best to tighten in sequence, front, then rear, then centre, 6 in all from memory,also at the bracket where the exhaust pipe is clamped to the manifold exhaust outlet in the engine bay to the right.
Thats as technical as it gets, if you feel gases blowing at the exhaust gasket or exhaust to manifold joint in the engine bay you have a leak, you will feel a back draught from the fan of course.Keep your fingers away from that fan, if you find the nuts are loose, dont even bother firng the engine till theyre all tight.
I only suggest this because I had a similar power loss when I first bought mine and it turned out the manifold studs were loose, presumably from the previous owner working on the engine, good luck and if it doesnt help, sincere apologies, but K.I.S. is my byword.
If there is blowing at the gasket and tightening doesnt do it then a new exhaust gasket may be required.

To moggithousand's good advice I will add that you may also get a stink in the car of exhaust fumes, and that Gun Gum is a good exhaust sealer when applied properly.

Have you tried changing the condensor yet?? The poor running and stuttering could be down to a dodgy condensor.

Also, as well as gapping the points, clean the face of them with fine emery paper, clean and gap the plugs as well and sometimes a build up of corrosion on the rotor arm and the contacts inside the distributor cap can affect running.

Another thing to try is a compression test as poor running and perfomance may be due to a partially burnt valve or the head gasket is staring to failt between two of the cylinders.

please let us know how you get on.

cheers
John

Valve gaps and compression test was suggested way back at the beginning, and condenser shortly after - no evidence that the OP has bothered to follow any of that advice........

moggiethouable - thanks, i'll try that tomorrow (I like K.I.S)

John - I haven't changed the condensor as I thought that was only if it was stuttering, and it's running fine just slow (currently). (I'm quite happy to be wrong, and probably am)

BMC - Sorry if you feel I've ignored your advice. I'm waiting for my compression tester to arrive, thought I must admit I did miss valve gaps, which I shall check tomorrow.

Thanks for all your help thus far,
Avram

Compression tester arrived today, and I suspect you might have been right!
#1 - 45psi
#2 - 25psi
#3 - 5psi
#4 - 55psi

which seem ludicrously low...

I'm surprised it will run at all, were the readings taking with the engine hot and the throttle jammed open?
Time to have the head off whatever.

usually if you get 2 awful readings next to one another it indicates the head gasket leaking between those two cylinders.
I would have thought they would be similar readings though.
Its odd there were no other symptoms, mayonnaise? burning oil/black smoke? etc etc etc, but the mans right, as the queen of hearts would say "off with his head" a nice weekend job in the summer.