Morris Minor Owners Club

youv'e been round the front, but have you had a look at the rears,If you know a friendly mot'er get it on the brake rollers and it will show up if its the brakes,and will even tell you which side or front or rear brake is causing the judder.

Ahhh right 'lad - I get you now.... Does anyone still do dynamic balancing ? With front wheel drive it's a no-no........

I narrowed it down to the front as applying the hand brake does not create any judder, and when I say judder I mean the steering leaps around in my hands so its definitely related to the front wheels. You should not be able to remove hubs from the stub axles by hand, if you can this means that there is something wrong somewhere, be this wear on the stub axle or an incorrect bearing size.
I am in the process of sourcing new bearings, the codes I have off them are:

39LJT25 and 11MJT17 both RHP but I cant seem to find them listed anywhere so I presume they are an old number. Does anyone know how to decipher these numbers into something useful?

The stub axle will push out the leg, if you have a friendly toolmaker who could make a new one. Otherwise if the stub axle is worn you may need a new leg.

Dean wrote:The stub axle will push out the leg, if you have a friendly toolmaker who could make a new one. Otherwise if the stub axle is worn you may need a new leg.

You have completely lost me here....??leg

Have you swapped the wheels front to rear?
Damage to the belts underlying the tread could give these symptoms.

Seriously - on all the Minors I have worked on, the front hubs just pull off the stubs - that is NOT a wear problem - and none of them have brake judder - even with the 9" front drums......... But go ahead - try new bearings......... you obviously won't be happy till you do! I gave you bearing numbers earlier - did you follow them up? Have you followed up all the other suggestions made? The numbers you quote off your bearings seem right enough - there won't be anything wrong with them - PROVIDED they are correctly installed - thrust faces opposing?

would worn /badly fitting bearings cause brake judder ,can't see why they should,all of the dozens of old cars I have had that had worn front bearings braked ok the bearings just grumbled,and whined,surely once the brake is applied the forces on the bearings are constant,the weight of the car would be thrown forwards onto the front of the bearings and stay there,unless I supose if you say the bearing is being turned on the stub,the whole lot could be snatching,but then why would that happen to do that the bearing would need to lock up to put a force onto the inner race to turn it on the stub.Very strange. And yes I can and have pulled the front hub off by hand with very little effort.

My feelings too......much more likely to be suspension/steering looseness - or oval/eccentric drum.

Bnmc
There is no need to get funny with me on here I am just trying to sort a problem I have. I have tried all the suggestions you have put forward but to no avail and yes I have had the wheels swapped too. Just because you insist on teig me there is nothing wrong with the bearings doesn't make it go away!! I have exhausted all other avenues so I am tying the only thing left I can think to do. How can the drums be oval if hey are brand new?? Also would that not give a on and off braking motion as the shoes came on and off contact? This isn't the problem I am having, mine is a violent shudder which isn't in at the same speed as wheel rotation.
I am sorry if me asking these questions causes you to be aggravated

I just wonder if it might be worth getting the new drums checked for ovality, if you've got an engineering place nearby. Unfortunately, I've come unstuck in the past (several times) when I've replaced things with new parts, because I expected them to be 'fit for purpose', and they haven't been. I know it's a hassle, but you could definitely eliminate that as the source of the problem then. Alternatively, if you've still got the old drums, you could get them skimmed and checked (if they're not too far gone) and then refit them,to save having the car off the road for too long. I know it's a long shot, but even though the drums are new, there's still a chance that they could be 'faulty'. Good luck.

Liammonty
I am going to do just that as I need to check the drums, unfortunately the old ones are very far gone there is nothing left on them lol. But like you say just cos they are new doesn't mean they are any good.

lee_rob wrote:

Dean wrote:The stub axle will push out the leg, if you have a friendly toolmaker who could make a new one. Otherwise if the stub axle is worn you may need a new leg.

You have completely lost me here....??leg

King pin, swivel pin, leg, numerous things they are called that the stub axles are pushed into.

With a workshop press they will push out and can be replaced without replacing the whole swivel pin.

I can assure you I'm not being funny - I'm just trying to save you wasting money on bearings you don't need .....It's not too easy at a distance - but be assured we are all here to try to help. New drums have recently been found to be oval/eccentric. We've all mentioned a few things to try - and the feed-back hasn't been great. Are the tie-bars definitely securely located at the front end - good rubbers in the mount - securing nut done up TIGHT ? Do you think the problem is with one wheel - or both? You could try swapping the hubs over side to side - and/or the brake drums with them. Are they 8" or 7" drums ? If 7" - swap with the rears to see if that helps. I also suggest close inspection of the steering rack track rods and the track rod ends - and indeed the rack mountings.

Thanks bmc sorry of I misunderstood

I have just replaced the tie bar bushes with poly ones and they are done up very tight. Like I said it did it with the old drums (which incidentally are 8") so hence I replaced them with new ones. But you're right they could be still oval, I will check. I checked the ends of the steering arms and they are good and tight no play there but I have checked the mounting of the rack itself so I will do that next.
Unfortunately the bearings have got to be replaced now as I gave the hubs to A friend of mine to get the bearings out to inspect them and he ended up pretty much destroying them to get them out. Anyway I took ur codes and one bearing company quoted me £180 to replace them all which shocked me. I have found some on simply bearings but they are various
Different ones of the same type and size but just with different codes so I need to work out which ones.
Anyway I shall check the other things as well and just make sure it's not the rack itself that's come loose.
Thanks for your comments

Crikey! £180 is way way too much. Just buy bearings from say Moss and stick them in. http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewP ... exID=17091 have the fronts been re-tracked after fitting the poly bushes on the tiebars? I prefer to fit only one poly (on the outside) and retain a rubber bush on the inside - to retain some flexibility.

So - have new bearings solved the judder problem? We wait - with bated breath...........

you just beat me to it bm

' just ' - by ~ 22 hours......

I have replaced my front wheel bearings with tapered rollers about 30 years ago. You need to remove the spacer between the bearings, and leave it out when re-assembling the hubs. When replacing the hubs, tighten the wheel nut fairly tight to ensure the bearings are 'home', and then re-tighten the wheel nut up until the wheel doesn't feel loose or bind. You MAY have to use a shim washer behind the nut so the you can install the split pin at the at the required tightness. I think there are two pin holes in the stub axle which will allow you to select an alternative nut setting which is half a flat between the hexagon setting
.....David Shipard