Morris Minor Owners Club

Remove the wooden header from the frame and lay it on the car, then pull the metal frame to it and use the securing nutterfly screws to locate it.

Finally, fit the rest of the screws.

It won't be a match across the width, the metal will be at the bottom of the wood in the centre and top at the edges, but once 'wrapped' you won't tell.

Thanks for the comment Dave.Actually looking back at your pic showing the distance between the pivot and b post frame its even more difficult for me to understand as the instructions I have from the kit supplier are to make the 17.5" from the pivot to the inner edge of the b post frame,i.e looking from outside your 17.5" is to the left of the b post,mine is to the right making the pivot to header rail distance on mine longer which should actually make the header easier to fit!Two of us just managed to get it hooked over the front dowels yesterday but had to use so much force it increased the gap between quarterlight frame and screen rain channel!The wooden header fits the contour of the top edge perfectly when off the frame mind you its jointed in the middle which makes it more bendy.The metal of the front bar is approx 20mm x 4mm flat bar and needs bending along its edge not the flat side.It definitely will not bend sufficiently without being heated and bent in a vice.I'm sure I have a Friday afternoon header rail.The only answer is going to be cutting 1/2" off the end of the front side rails and welding back on to shorten it then bending it to match the screen top contour.Its off to the DVLA thursday for the inspection of the conversion so will probably get started on Friday.

irmscher wrote:Hi Dave if you get stuck i have a spare mohair hood and frame i would sell off my project that i will never get going on .
kind regards Lee

Hi iam looking for frame and hood .what price you asking

Hi Dave.I have managed to get the frame fitting better and so far havent had to do any cutting to it.I found that laying a long block of wood across the window frames so the frame was raised allowed me to push the front end down which has raised the centre section and this has in effect reduced the overhang at the front.I think a bit more tweaking will get me there.Can I trouble you a bit more?Sitting in the back seat of your car looking at the header rail when fastened down whats the fit/gap like betwwen it and the screen frame top edge?A picture would be very helpful.Is it uniformly close all the way along or does it touch in the centre and have a gap at the ends?If it has a gap how big is it?
Cheers
Mick

Once tightened down using the butterfly bolts it sits on the roof contour with no gap.

If the bolts are hitting the upright peg in the correct position, you should feel (and see) the header pull down as you tighten the bolts.

The bottom edge of the header also has a 'foam' layer on it to help create a wind proof seal and allow it to crush down.

I have modified mine though to ad a couple of 'safety' catches for extra security as I don't want it blowing open again, plus added a handle too help pull it down into place as I have a frozen shoulder.

I couldn't find an 'over centre' catch small enough to fit so used a pair of 'Windscreen Silencers' from here: http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/catego ... ts-catches (scroll to the bottom of the page) - top part is secured by stainless machine screws by drilling and tapping the hood frame 4mm. The bottom bracket for now, is simply held with self tappers, but I'm looking at getting those welded on

I can't get into the back seat to get a full frame image so hope these help:
[frame][/frame]
[frame][/frame]

Dave these pics illustrate me problem.As I said if I remove the timber from the frame it fits the screen surround profile perfectly so it has to be the frame thats stopping it touching at the ends.I thought of chamfering some wood from underneath so it fits further into the frame and also adding extra cushioning at the ends but theyre both bodges really.Even though I can now latch it ok I still think I'm going to have to bend the front of the frame to make it fit.What do you think?[frame][/frame]

[frame][/frame]

Hmm when 1st pulled down mine sits nicely on the middle but has a gap at each end which disappears when tightened down with the butterfly screws

Yes I understand.Mine stays put!I know theyre quite draughty but if left like this it would be very draughty!

OK are you sure that the butterfly bolts are hitting the chamfer on the locating peg so that it can pull down?

Put a dab of paint or something on the end of the screw and see where it's locating on the pin.

Dave because theres no fabric on the wood yet I can see that its locating as it should?

Are you sure that the right side pin is going all the way into the locating hole?

From the picture it doesn't seem to be or the wood would be down on the frame at that point

Yes its all the way down.Here it is off the frame.Fits perfectly.[frame][/frame]

I meant when it's attached to the frame is it locating correctly in the hole?

Sorry mate yes it is.

tysonn wrote:[frame][/frame]

So in the picture above that you posted why is the wooden header not being pulled all the way down by the butterfly bolt?

If the bolt is hitting the chamfer on the pin, as you wind it in, it should pull the frame down.

Dave its not being pulled down because its screwed to the metal header frame.Theres only one position to fit the wood to the meatl as you know yourself.The front of the frame isnt curved enough to match the contour of the screen top.The screw isnt strong enough to bend the metal frame so the wood just stays up in the air.

Sorry to repeat myself but are you sure that the butterfly bolt is hitting the chamfer on the locating pin as if it does, then screwing it in will pull the frame down.

You should be able to pull the frame down by hand as well if pulling at the right hand corner

I know its difficult to see in the pics and even harder to explain but when its screwed to the frame both ends are 3/4" too high.Even if I used a sash cramp all that would happen is that the end of the wooden header would snap as the metal frame will not bend to accomodate the curve. With the timber off the frame it fits the screen top exactly so the frame is rigidly clamping the timber in the wrong position.Its not possible to fit the timber to the metal in the wrong position as the flat plates on the frame fit in the chamfered out parts of the header.Unfortunately the frame was bought over a year ago by the cars last owner.If it had been in warranty I would be sending it back to ESM to swap for a good 'un!

Looks like you have no option then other than to bend the front bar of the frame.