Morris Minor Owners Club

The linings need replacing, Driver, good call. Luckily I have a new friction plate in my spare parts. I revised the measurements to millimeters -- originally centimeters and, Roy, you were quite right that that was an awful lot.

I had a look in the Workshop Manual and adjusting the pressure ring height requires some kind of special tool, so the clutch plate was looked over by two mechanics today, both specialists in older clutches, and the better of the two wants the flywheel and clutch tomorrow for testing. Hopefully they can find my missing centimeter. Additionally, my spare clutch plate is in fair shape but needs more work than Mog's, so I'm betting on Mog's for now. Results when I have them.

I got the clutch back today -- it was in pretty good shape, said the mechanic, and whatever was wrong with it was fixed. Where the pressure ring was 23mm from the base plate, it is now only 15mm. Compare this shot to the second in my photographic post above:[frame][/frame]
Additionally, I took this opportunity to clean the engine backplate, and replace the flywheel and friction plate -- the former had most of its teeth chipped, and the latter was close to rubbing on its rivets, so both got better units (in the case of the friction plate, a new unit). Now I'm going to clean up and lubricate the throwout bearing, and reassemble it all for an off-car motion test.

Additionally, I should ask -- there was a small bit of oil leaked from the rear end of the crankshaft, that is, from the rear main seal. I am inclined to think that this is because I accidentally tipped the engine over a few months ago, but regardless, is this something that should be addressed, or should I not worry about it? Keep in mind the engine has not been run for a year and a half or so, so I have no way of knowing when this oil appeared.

there is no rear oil seal,its a scroll seal which relies on the engine running to throw the oil back into the engine,so yes if you tip it up without the engine running then oil will leak out.Most leak a bit anyway.

And is that thrust plate now absolutely square to the flywheel?

It seems to be perfectly flat in comparison to the flywheel. I can see no wobble when the engine is turned, though I shall definitely check once more (or maybe twice!).
I have two more questions: one, the carbon surface of the throwout bearing has ridges in it, one quite high around one side and another rather low, both around the edges. Does this necessitate a new bearing? I would think it does, but I wanted to be sure. And two, the throwout bearing lever has about 2cm of free motion (measured at the hole on its external end). Is this sufficient?
I was able to (sort of) mock up the clutch linkage, and I believe there will be some more free play, but I'm unsure of how much more.

All that matters with the C thrust is how much carbon (graphite) is sticking out above the cast holder. It's your judgment how long it will last in the car! I would say it needs to be AT LEAST 1/8" proud. Any ridges can just be filed off.

I just enquired about changing my carbon thrust,because it was a bit ribbed was informed by tom roy that they are only available with a full clutch kit,same with friction plate, only comes as one unit,so found an old one which was ok,don't think they were much thicker than 1/8" from new anyway.You may be able to get one but not this side of the pond.

Try a few more suppliers, I have always bought thrust bearings and drive plates separately

Usual nonsense from suppliers trying to max out profits.......Item 83 and 88 here (depending which you need) seem readily available from Moss. http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewP ... exID=17074