Morris Minor Owners Club

I recon drilling a hole there should work, and go for one of those little central locking servo's, or something very similar, then it will work in both directions to lock and unlock.

jmaster78 wrote:it just occured to me, instead of trying to fit the release mechanism from another car or even using the bonnet mechanism, why not just drill a hole in the original boot release hook and run the cable to it?[frame][/frame]

I think above idea looks simplest with solenoid or long cable. My solution, which I probably wouldn't repeat if doing again was to put a piece of door knob square section bar into the square hole. This had another bit of metal welded on. Imagine a door handle being plopped in the square hole. The cable then pulls on the handle.

From my own experience, things to be mindful of:

Make sure there's nothing in the boot that can fall inbetween the solonoid/cable and the door catch. I made a cover to prevent this; more faffling I hadn't bargained on.

Have a plan B for when the cable or solenoid fails. In my case, I've put catches on the back seat attaching to the back panel.

Consider in an accident that if you carry anvils in the boot they will try to come into the cabin in a crash.

I'll try to get pics but above idea looks better.

Oh, I routed the cable up to the top of the boot lid, through the gap between boot and cabin on r/h of rear seat, down behind the rear right side panel, through a small drilled hole in the underseat crossmember to terminate in the vertical panel under the rear seat front.

I'll try to get pictures in case any of this is useful

good advice dp, would definately like to see some pictures!

Okay here we go.


I think it's a remote fire extinguisher pull from a rally car hence red. Hole drilled here and directly behind in the rear bit of the seat crossmember under the rear seat.



Cable goes from under rear seat up behind rear right 'door' card and through gap in rear firewall. The cable routing needs to have gentle curves so the cable doesn't kink and jam. The curves give just the right amount of resistance to hold the catch open by itself.



Bit further back



& ends up here. Rear is panelled to stop luggage cracking fibreglass. Not necessary to hold cable or anything. On the other hand, as I don't have the panel that separates the spare wheel from the rest of the boot, boxing the opening mechanism stops it getting jammed with stuff floating around.

I can also reach in from the back seat & open if the cable fails since the rear seat is secured from the cabin, not the boot.

[frame][/frame]

Could you fit a spring to lift the bootlid on the rear panel but not too strong to stop it closing

page 15:20 of the technical tips book from the moggy club goes through how you do it. to avoid copy right issues I can not post it on here.. unless someone tells me otherwise