Morris Minor Owners Club

Gladys Update 8/7/11

1. I have fitted the new fuse box/holder and managed to find some firmer wire than the brittle parts I initially found.
There is still a problem in that the bottom two wire sets- 3 white to the left, 4 green to the right, are not getting current with ignition on, however the top 2 light up the circuit tester OK.
I've also checked the very bottom black earth wire and made sure it's secure.

STRANGE thing-when I accidentally got the circuit tester prong bridging the gap between the 2 fuse holder clips, the whole thing started to work and I heard the petrol pump click into action.

2
I have stripped the carb off again, and found that there is petrol backed up to the to the beginning of the inlet manifold, where the carburettor comes off.
Is this how it should be?


I also found that the tube from the bottom of the float chamber to the jet had a tiny blockage which I was able to blow out.
At least problems have been identified now, but I would sure appreciate any ideas on how to put them right!!

Best wishes
John

Update 21.7.11

The short in the Fusebox, fixed via new fuse unit holder.

Timing-started from scratch , removed Distributor, checked TDC via teeth on pulley, finger over spark plug hole, check 1st piston at TDC with biro into spark plug hole.
Dissy reinstalled with great care.

Rotor arm at 1 oclock, checked spark to plugs with plug illuminators, all lit up in correct sequence of 1 3 4 2 .

The carburettor, which had been leaking and flooding, was removed and upon inspection, the aperture holding the pipe to the jet was found to be sorely corroded and falling in upon itself.

The best bet, I thought, was to replace the carb which gave me the opportunity to check the inlet manifold apertures and gasket. No probs found with the inlet manifold or the gasket. Replacement carb fitted, this has the old chrome float which I checked for correct float setting.
Throttle cable and choke cable re attached and set correctly. Mixtire control set 2 turns (12 flats) down.
A thimble of petrol pit down a plug hole
Pistons rise and fall as normal, tappets move, valves move....
Stil.........................Gladys refuses to start.

I can see the spark, I can feel the compression on the starting handle, I can also hear the compresssion, and I can also hear fuel entering the inlet manifold.

I am absloutely stumped. I've spent 3 x 6 hour sessions on her in the last 3 days and the ONLY thing I can now think of is that maybe the exhaust system is blocked (corrosion of baffles) and thus the engine wont start.

I do believe it's some sort of jinx or curse as, according to all laws, the engine should fire.

Best wishes John

Well, obviously not Mark otherwise it would be going now according to the owners last posts. I teach motor mechanics, mate!

Update 14/9/11

Hiyas, A lot has happened recently and here's the update.
I called Dave Clifton, who kindly came out to look at Gladys.

The main thing was a guess at a broken cylinder head gasket followed by the carb.
The only way to check is to take the head off.
There were a few other things Dave spotted, indicator stalk has been put on left of the steering column, loose steering wheel, 2 heater hoses ready to split, but the work I'd done on starter, dissy and timing Dave OK'd .


The indicator is now on the right and self cancelling for the first time since I got Gladys, why the previous wanted it left hand side I can only guess at personal preference or left handedness.

Old heater hoses removed and replaced with new.

Steering wheel secuing bolt found to have been "chiselled on" due probably to the size of the thing, so refitted using correct socket size, loose no more.


Carb I bought as replacement, removed and sold on, Dave rebuilt up my initial SU2.

Then the process of taking the head off. Battery disconnect, water drained, hoses off plugs out, manifold off etc. etc.
Head removal showed gasket broken in 2 places hence lack of compression.

New head gasket bypass hose, manifold gasket etc bought in.

Whilst the engine is stripped down, now doing a mild de-coke of head and cylinder tops, actually the build up isn't bad at all and the engine is relatively clean for the year.

Next step is to start with the head gasket, refit, and then build the engine back up as per Dave's instructions.


Sory I didn't update earlier, but as you can see things have been manic.
I have worked on Gladys only wehen I have a FULL day, rather than doing half days whenever I could.
Although this initially seemed to waste time, it actually has increased the speed of repair as the concentration one can give when there's a full, dedicated car day more than makes up for the time. Things seem to be sailing ahead.

Thank you again for all your kind help.
Best wishes
John

Sounds like Gladys will be heading for the open road soon! Glad you've got it diagnosed and sorted. Keep us updated.

Update 24/9/11
Decoke done
Cyinder gasket done.
New bypass hose.
Engine rebuilt right up to rocker cover.
New manifold on, joined to exhaust.
Several electrical probs sorted out-horn, indicators all working fine (and self cancelling too).
Steering wheel tightened -properly.

Next job-fit carb and cables,
Fill with anti-freeze/water.
Re-check everything has been done.
Go for an engine start

Thank you again
John