Morris Minor Owners Club

Ok, managed to get the oil seal out without too much difficulty, dug out the rubber with a combination of screwdriver and stanley knife.

Then got a small point screwdriver and got it in to the edge and made a wee access bend then got a small flat head screwdriver and put that in to the hole from the back and tapped with a hammer. got a bigger gap going and then just went round the seal getting it further out each time, til it popped out after a couple of minutes!

Happy days, so now on to cleaning all the back plates up in prep for new cylinders, shoes and drums going on!
Obviously got to put the new seal, old bearing, new o-ring and new gasket back in first!

It's taking shape!

Going to all that trouble - I suggest a new bearing.. Is that not why you are doing the work?

There was an oil leak from the axle in to the brake drum and after a bit of research and speaking to a few people, it seemed to be the way forward to replace not just the o-ring and gasket but the oil seal also. It was hard to tell where the leak was coming from.

The bearing seems fine though.
Any advice is always welcome. Cheers

If you think it's ok - then just wash it carefully and pop it back in - same way round as it came out......

What would I wash it with?

The same way as it came out, oh dear, I can't remember, i did think about that about two minutes after, and couldn't convince myself either way! Any way of telling? It looks very similar on both sides!???

Wash out with carb choke cleaner spray, or just a little petrol. Would not be wise to ask the bearing to start running the opposite way after ~ 50 years running the other way! But - if you don't know, not much you can do about it....

Thanks again bmc! I'll go for a little petrol as I don't have carb spray. Like you say, not a lot I can do about the bearing.

Hi

The writing on the bearing normally faces outwards on the rear bearing.

Taupe

Carb cleaner spray is well worth grabbing when you see it in the Pound shop. Almost pure Toluene - It cleans without leaving any oily film behind.

taupe wrote:Hi

The writing on the bearing normally faces outwards on the rear bearing.

Taupe

Great thanks, may as well go with that then!
I'll try and find some carb spray too.

Hi,
I'm noting this post, as I'm having issues at present removing the rear wheel bearing retaining nuts on my car, the drivers side was eventually persuaded to come off but the passenger side is fighting................
I have a 47mm socket, however this 'springs off' a little too easily, so I will now see if I can obtain a 46mm one.
Though I have found this on the Bull Motif site:

https://www.bullmotifspares.co.uk/produ ... 105/DIF105

Has anyone tried this tool / got any feedback on how good / sturdy it is in use?
Best wishes,
Mike.

Mike,

Don't forget that the LH/passenger/nearside hub nut has a left-hand thread, so turn clockwise to UNDO!!

Don't forget that the LH/passenger/nearside hub nut has a left-hand thread, so turn clockwise to UNDO!!

Thanks Islip,
I have been trying that, as I re-read the section in the manual after struggling to get the drivers side off, looking for tips and advice and spotted the note about the thread direction. It's still jammed on solid at present, I'm leaving it soaking in 'Plus Gas' overnight, though I think a tighter fitting socket will help....... or maybe that tool......
Best wishes,
Mike.

The problem with using a socket is that most sockets have a concave bottom and combined with the thinness of the nut very little of the socket is actually gripping the nut - the result is that the socket easily slips off the hub nut. The solution as regards using a socket is to grind out the concave so that the maximum interface between socket and nut is achieved.
The 1 7/8" socket that I use for the rear hub nut has had the concave ground out and it grips the nut perfectly.
I also have a similar tool to the BM spanner which means that the loading on the spanner is in the same plane as the nut which makes life much easier.

I have also ground out the concave of the socket (1 5/16" A/F) used for the camshaft nut which is also quite thin . The socket I use for this application is a six point impact socket.

The hub nut lock washer can sometimes pick up and stop the nut from being undone so make sure that the lock washer is fully knocked away from the nut.

As Phil says, the shallow nuts don't help removal and I have never had much success with conventional sockets. It is important to ensure that the lock washer is released of course and I too use a spanner similar to that in the Bull Motif link which I find does a good job.

If the nut has been damaged or rounded off the modified socket will be less effective.
My own ground socket is very effective in removing and tightening the hub nut. The bottom of the socket was finished off with sheet of oiled wet & dry on a flat plate which made for a perfect 90 degree inner corner which allowed the socket to go face to face with the tab washer
You do have to press the socket to the hub to get the best out of it as the loading of the socket handle is not in the same plane as the hub nut. The shallower you can make the socket the better. This will keep the socket handle closer to the same plane as the nut and reduce the possibility of the nut slipping off the nut.