Morris Minor Owners Club

LanceNZ wrote:Well spotted George,
Decided it only really needed one fuel pump (the one that actually worked!)

My car had that pump fitted when I first bought it.
It is now the spare in the boot, manufactured I think in New Zealand and it worked just fine.
Being fully electronic I was concerned that when it died, that would be that, so I fitted a new electromechanical S.U unit and kept the red beastie as the spare.
It seemed wholly reliable though.
n.b. thats a very tidy refurb.

Have finished the electrics - All lights working now!
p.s. Anyone know of anyone wanting an Alvis TC21 /100, check out my listing http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C351872 - was my fathers who passed away in September.[frame][/frame]

Rear end of Morrie, front end of Alvis[frame][/frame]

Just an update - have finished rebuilding and installing the rear axle - slowly getting there![frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

Looking great! Been following this one for a while. Barefoot in a garage with heavy things? tut tut...

I've got my steel capped toe nails on
They build us tough in NZ!

Rear brakes completed, handbrake cables installed, Master cylinder installed. Now I have a favour to ask - can somebody post some photos of how the front brake pipe from the master cylinder is routed around the gearbox cross member and clutch linkage and to the front tee junction? I have to make a new pipe so I want it to be routed in the original manner (I know this probably means jacking up your car and photographing from underneath - so many thanks in advance for anyone prepared to help me out) [frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

Hi

it shows it quite well in the workshop manual page M2 including the split rubber sleeve over the gearbox crossmember and the metal spring clips, do you have a copy of this?

Taupe

Hope this can help.
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Be sure to run the pipe far enough inboard to clear the underside of the floor when it goes on.
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My pipes, on car original and truck replaced, run under the chassis at this point around the clutch linkage.
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Thanks for your comments guys. Roni, your photos were just what I needed!
I'm in Melbourne for a couple of days but I'll hopefully get on to doing the brake pipes in the weekend.
Cheers
Lance

wiper motor rebuid time[frame][/frame]

Wiper motor rebuilt and installed, cable and wiper gearboxes removed, cleaned re-lubed and installed, wiper arms and blades disassembled, cleaned and refitted - all works well![frame][/frame]

Have made the decision to remove the old bituman based underseal from the underbody - will be a big job but hopefully will be worth it. Also have the wheels finished and the front suspension components"ready for reinstallation.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
I intend to properly seam seal all the joints, then a coat of stoneguard, then a topcoat of matching old english white. I love living in an area with no snow or salt on the roads!

some nice shiny bits going on there and nice job with the wiper motor, your very fortunate not to have the evil salt on the roads that's for sure.

Keep up the good work

Kind Regards

Scott

still cleaning the old underseal off........[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

Still cleaning.....[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

New Zealand weather is kind to it's old Morries, that's coming along really well, sorry to hear about your Dad, shame he never got to see the results of your hard work on the Traveller.

we need to remove the underseal from our saloon too so far I have been using heat to get the bulk of it off but this still leaves a residue, how are you getting it off yours?

Kevin

Hi Dave, thanks for your comments.

Hi Kevin,
I am just spraying the bitumen based underseal with thinners and then wiping it off, its dirty work, takes a while but gives a good result. Im lucky as the "old" underseal is new (ie never been exposed to the weather) but had been done about 10 years ago. I'm only taking it off so I can seam seal the chassis and because I prefer the look of a "clean" painted underside.