Morris Minor Owners Club

To me that sounds like a fine plan! Going over 70 mph in a Minor is a scary thought anyway...I know they're strong little cars when structurally sound -- it's getting them sound that's the scary part...

Just uploaded some more pictures to flickr if anybody wants to see

Looks like a first class project, well done, you are obviously a well informed young man.
Might be an idea to check insurance situation, before adding too many mods.
All the best.

Wow that was a pretty rusty car, well done for saving it!

This is a really good lesson for anyone thinking of buying a cheap Minor, Just how rotten a typical car can be despite looking fairly tidy on the outside.

Also not a bad lesson in how to fix a rotten car in your driveway. You seem to have had to do most of the typical rust repairs (and previous bodges) and although some of your welding isn't the neatest it looks pretty strong.

Good luck with the rest of the restoration.

thanks, the welder im using is a really cheap one which can make pretty strong welds when its working properly but it doesn't tend to be that neat , i think the crossmember welds were the neatest.

The grinder comes in handy

Is that an arc welder you're using?

No its a gasless mig made by powercrap

OK, just thought the welds looked quite arc-like!

Good news, the minor has know been rotated back the right way up with a nice looking underbody,
will upload the pictures to flickr soon

Went to a show in llandudno last weekend and found a guy that soda blasts cars and he is even mobile!, has anybody had their car soda blasted instead of sand blasting

Also, what do you guys think of painting the car british racing green

some good pictures on your flickr. some nice mods going on too!

may i ask what the box section in the chassis rails is for?

Not sure about soda blasting, no doubt however that someone will!

RE racing green, go ahead with it! Its a nice colour, and as its not a standard colour there won't be many minors in it. but its all up to you

chrisryder wrote:some good pictures on your flickr. some nice mods going on too!

may i ask what the box section in the chassis rails is for?

The box section is part of a cunning plan
It is going to be part of an a-frame arrangement so it can be towed easier and so a simple tow rope can be attatched incase i get stuck in the mud at shows

Time for some more planning,

I intend to fit a towbar for a bike carrier and also to tow a small trailer,
So the question is, does anybody have a diagram to make one or even anybody want to get rid of theirs?
I know of watling and esm selling them but i do want to keep the cost down

Thanks for any help

Here you go:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOW-BAR-MORRIS-MI ... 500wt_1156

Thats perfect except how far away it is
Thanks for looking

Ok then i have now finished all of my exams so will be doing quite alot of welding in the next few weeks and hopefully if all goes well it can go to the paint shop towards the middle of the summer

Also, if all goes well i will be getting a 1098 engine and box although it has been alot of decision making. To this i will fit a ported 1275 head, heated inlet manifold, hif38/44, lcb exhaust, electronic ignition, high lift roller rockers, fast road cam, hardened valves etc etc. I must say that David Vizard is such a legend, the book has helped alot.

Bodywork will be either dark blue or british racing green with sunvisor, widened rear arches, mesh grille, boot rack and maybe a roofrack.

As for the wheels i am thinking of van rims for the front and banded wheels to fit the rear arches. If it looks good i will fit the white wall tyre trims from moss .

To top it off i will be making a completely new and custom wiring loom to make it look professional instead of splicing into the old grotty loom. This will allow me to run wires for the additions including a high level brake light, reverse light, fog lights, driving lights, electric wash pump and if possible i'll try and fit some deadbolts along with a central locking kit for added security.

Sorry for the long winded essay but ive had alot of thinking time

Has anybody fitted a repair flange to the rear arches because im a bit weary of welding it on as the metal looks a bit thin. Any pictures would be grateful

just thought i would give a little update,

i have now got a 1098cc engine and gearbox.
engine bay completely stripped of everything including the paint - two patches to be welded in
boot floor cut to be replaced with strong metal
offside rear spring hanger is going to be replaced, didnt look very nice inside.

plenty of welding to be done but should be finished pretty quickly, i am guestimating that it can be painted in a month

cheers for looking
will upload some more pics to flickr soon

i've just read what you said about 1098 with 1275 ported head and HIF38/44 carb. and high lift rockers.

from what i can understand, a standard 1275 head would be fine, anything more would be overkill, and a HIF44 would be a bit on the large side, even if bmc comes along and says 'bigger the better'.

the problem with the 1275 head on a 1098 is the exhaust valves can hit the deck of the block. if you fit high lift rockers, the valves are even more likely to hit, so you would have to pocket the valves even more, or pocket the valves and pocket the block.

i'd run with the 1098 as is for a bit, and then add power in installments. works out better to do it in small stages. if you start off with lots of power, you'll still eventually wind up thinking 'i wish it was quicker', and then the only way to get more power is very expensive mods.

if you fit a 1098, you'll think 'i want more power' and then you can do a cheap mod and run with that for a bit. then when you get bored of that, you can do another cheap mod and that'll keep you happy for a bit longer!

see what i'm getting at?

thats quite a good idea, i think i may change the carb and rockers for now and i'll port the original head, put some hardened valve seats in and run it for a while then change the head or even just chuck a 1275cc in there in say 2/3 years.

cheers
Gazz