Morris Minor Owners Club

Charlie hi mate, I have a pipe at bleed nipple with a one way valve. Got it from halfords.

xpress wrote:Charlie hi mate, I have a pipe at bleed nipple with a one way valve. Got it from halfords.

I've tried and failed to use one of those to bleed a Minor single-handed. I think air was being sucked back in on the up stroke through the threads of the bleed nipples. I was struggling away with it in a Youth Hostel car park when a fellow Minor owner happened to be walking past and stopped to help out.

Never had any success with the 'gravity' method either. I'm guessing air gets trapped in the high points of the system (eg. where the pipe goes over the back axle).

I have bled the rear brakes too, after fitting a new cylinder - a syphon is set up.

If you have a one way valve after the bleed nipple you should be able to "pump" the brakes, one at a time. without the need for an eezibleed system.

sorry just read the previous comment about problems using theses one way valves.. I have never used one before my self i just get a friend to help out with the brakes.

Roy I am not doubting that you have used this method several times on several cars I just fear it is fraut with difficulties and in my opinion uncertainties in an area where i would not want uncertainties.. so i will stick with the pumping brakes method.

i had a pretty good pedal that passed moggie mot after lots of pumping with a friend and the one way valve on the bleed nipple. just my ten pence.

Sorry to pick up on an old thread - but I think this is worth a mention;

I recently had to bleed brakes on a FIAT, and I wanted to check some details on the Fiat Forum - where I found very strong advice against using the old 'pedal push' method. The danger is that you are likely to be pressing the seals further down the bore of the master cylinder than they would usually go. A small amount of water (from condensation) often collects in this area and as this part of the bore is not regularly swept clean by the passing seal it can lead to rusting of the internal bore, and - as the seal passes over the rusted area during long pedal push bleeding - the seal gets damaged. I can confirm that this is exactly what happened to me twice whilst trying to re-seal a MC !

Easy-Bleed device worked brilliantly on the Fiat, so I'm now modding an old cap for Morris use

If you have got an ezebleed kit why not measure the end fitting to get the drill size? Next point why give up because or the vent hole? You need a little more perseverance! Firstly drill your hole in the m/c cap (in centre) then, if the cap is found to be too thick, file it down ( keeping it flat) lathe would be better but not essential. Then pass the brass threaded piece through the cap after first fitting a thin fibre washer, screw the nut on the fitting, again with a fibre washer.
Now for the vent hole! Use a panel pin of the appropriate diameter (you will have to try some to get a tight tap in fit) and pass it through the vent hole from the inside. The pin head will make doubly sure it doesn't blow out. Trim off any unnecessary pin length and put a dob of sealant there. Then you can use the ezebleed if you want to. A threaded hole in the cap is probably the best option but for the sake of simplicity the former method works and is fine.
Just seen how old this thread is!!!! He's probably been there done it and got the T shirt by now.

I made a simple pressurised system using the cap from the old MC; the pressure was from a garden sprayer.

The problem as I see it is the moggie MC has a relatively small capacity (compared to say a LR S1) and if you are not careful you empty it quite quickly, and risk getting air back into the system... the bolt in the side of the cap is to block the vent

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Nice work! You South Africans are so enterprising! Not too higher pressure though - I saw somewhere on this thread that someone was considering a feed from their compressor! Could have disasterous results on seals and unions. Eezibleed manual recomends only 20 psi.