Morris Minor Owners Club

weh hey, all sorted ,seem to be ok ,took me 3 hours moved down one spline at wishbone and replaced knackered rubber eyebolt bushes with some from bull m.,only one side,steve just got to do bump stps now

that piece of metal the damper arm sits on wen jacked up,is that the lower bump stop , mines got no rubber on it?

They are meant to have rubber on them????

Yes - that's the lower bump stop and without the rubber it goes 'clank' when the suspension tops out.
The more important bump stop is the one between the inner wing and the top trunnion.

On the subject of the front suspension, i replaced all my rubber bushes the other week, and found that with the ones where the torsion bar meets the wishbone, one of them was far more squashed up than the other, does this matter and how do i rectify it if so? Cheers,Ben.

right then, all done, adjusted torsion bar,replaced eyebolt rubber with poly ones ,fitted new bump stops. thanks for help ray &cam

Iwant1, as no one seems to want to reply to your query. In what manner does the bush get squashed?

Is it being squashed longditudially by the bottom arm when bolted on because it appears to be too long?

or

Is the torsion bar not centrallising as it comes through the chassis tie bar and is cutting sideways through the bush?

Regards,
Wal

about the splines and vernier plate. if you adjust by vernier plate you only adjust the hight. if you move swinging arm on splines you increase the torsion on the bar. if you do it to much you wont be able to reconnect when jacking up the arm, and you will start to lift the car. engine must always be fitted (mass) when assembling front suspension,

Yes MARK but if you do have to move it by a spline it is because
the torsion bar has settled too far for the adjusting plate to cure
the 'sag' and you will only put the suspension back to where it
should be. Adjusting the plate on the centre cross member
also increases the tension on the torsion bar otherwise it would
not raise the height of the car.

Ahh, cheers wal, i have had the question answered in a different section recently, but they said it'd rip in the not too near future if not sorted, its squashed because it appears to be to long, its an even squashing as if the nut is done up too tight, which it is not. Any ideas would be great. Cheers, Ben.

ello lads , i was going to move the adjuster plate lever one spline but couldnt budge it , but noticed the wishbone spline moved easily so used that, i new it would be a waste of time using a.plate, any way its spot on now ,io times better ride with poly bushes from BM,the rbbers were nearly in two ,steve

STEVE you did the right thing anyway. It is the wishbone end
where the SPLINE adjustment is done, the adjuster plate end
is not moved on the splines just moved up or down to a
different hole. ( each hole makes approx 1/4" difference.

Willie,
Either end has worked fine for me. Removing the rear arm saves removing the eyebolt when replacing rubbers

allrite lads, when i changed bushes on other side,i found it quicker and easier to take the torsion bar rite off

Ok whatever works for you RAY, but the measurement for
checking if you have refitted on the correct spline is usually
taken from the wishbone end. And, pardon me! rubbers!!
you still using them old things??

And, pardon me! rubbers!!
you still using them old things??

OI, behave yourself, I meant suspension rubbers. Made me
laugh though!

i think s richardson has reset his front suspension to the original position after the customisers lowered it

Ben,
sorry I haven't replied sooner. The main reason that the rubbers appear to be too long is due to assembly. They have to be assembled properly otherwise they do appear too long when they are not. Also they tend to wear very quickly if left like this.

So how to - the rubbers need to be put in while the torsion bar is loose and not under strain. They should then fit in nicely. You then bolt the front arm (sorry can't remember any of the technical terms for the parts) on so that the rubbers are held in but don't bolt it to the splined arm. So basically it is holding the rubbers in place, this will stop them being forced out when you do it up. Then jack up the splined arm and connect it to the bottom trunnion. This then means that the rubbers are under pressure and are forced outwards. If you have left the front arm off at this point the rubbers are forced forwards and thus appear to be too long. The front arm then needs to be lifted up and connected to the bottom trunion, this can be done by hand. You can loosen the front nut slightly if you have to in order to locate it on the lower trunnion. But do not loosen it off too much otherwise the rubbers will push themselves out and again appear to long. The two arms can then be bolted together as per normal. The rubbers are then peforming their function properly and are nice and tightly located. If assembled incorrectly the rubbers squeeze out the front, appear too long and wear quickly.

Sorry if my description is a bit confusing but it really is simple to do properly and the issue is all about assembly in the right manner.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Wal

just use a large washer and the nut, to insert the eye bolt rubber and hold it on the eyebolt pin, until torsion is applied.
when your ready to put front arm on, just remove large washer.
ues 1 about the dia of rubber if not a little larger.